poseidon Report post Posted April 7, 2011 Hi Ive been reading and researching and i'm still confused as to what type and weight of leather do I use for making a watch strap like this. I went to a local leather shop but their vegetable tanned leather seem to be too hard and thick to turn into a leather strap the one in the image is soft. What do you think is the best leather? I'm planning to stamp a logo at the back also. what weight is the best for this project? TIA guys Images borrowed from the net Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted April 7, 2011 Just a guess, but 3oz veg D&S (doubled and stitched). Art Hi Ive been reading and researching and i'm still confused as to what type and weight of leather do I use for making a watch strap like this. I went to a local leather shop but their vegetable tanned leather seem to be too hard and thick to turn into a leather strap the one in the image is soft. What do you think is the best leather? I'm planning to stamp a logo at the back also. what weight is the best for this project? TIA guys Images borrowed from the net Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8thsinner Report post Posted April 7, 2011 It also could have been split from thicker leather and just broken down in the old fashioned style to make it soft. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
poseidon Report post Posted April 8, 2011 It also could have been split from thicker leather and just broken down in the old fashioned style to make it soft. broken down to make it soft? how sir? I'll try it out thanks sir Just a guess, but 3oz veg D&S (doubled and stitched). Art Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8thsinner Report post Posted April 8, 2011 The only old way I know off was to roll up the leather a keep rotating it and hitting it with a maul. It splits the fibres up and softens it somewhat, in theory anyway, I have never needed to test it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
poseidon Report post Posted April 8, 2011 would'nt the maul leave marks? The only old way I know off was to roll up the leather a keep rotating it and hitting it with a maul. It splits the fibres up and softens it somewhat, in theory anyway, I have never needed to test it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted April 8, 2011 I've seen Wickett and Craig make a veg tan that is very soft, Matt said they just tumble it a long time. If you do this yourself, the leather must be dry and you should use something smooth faced like a shoemakers or fitters hammer. I have no problem hammering on dry leather, either veg or chrome. If you don't have the smooth face (some mauls are textured now), just impact the flesh side. A bit of moderation of force is also required, too hard and you might slightly distress the leather (what I mean is don't beat the bejeesus out of it). Art would'nt the maul leave marks? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
poseidon Report post Posted April 8, 2011 Thanks for the tips guys I will try to tenderize my leather now:Lighten: I've seen Wickett and Craig make a veg tan that is very soft, Matt said they just tumble it a long time. If you do this yourself, the leather must be dry and you should use something smooth faced like a shoemakers or fitters hammer. I have no problem hammering on dry leather, either veg or chrome. If you don't have the smooth face (some mauls are textured now), just impact the flesh side. A bit of moderation of force is also required, too hard and you might slightly distress the leather (what I mean is don't beat the bejeesus out of it). Art Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VanHornSaddlery Report post Posted July 12, 2011 Hello, I have made a couple of watch bands and have used 2-3oz veg tanned and then used skidmores leather cream before working the leather. I take a hairdryer and warm the leather, apply skidmores, rub heck out of it, warm with hairdryer again if needed, then wipe off, bend the leather and work it good to soften, wont break. I use skidmores on dry, brittle saddles the same way and have good luck softening the leather. In my experience hammering dry vegtan produces cracking and Lots of cussing. Case and stamp your logo before skidmoreing. Tee See oil works good too.Good luck. Jake VanHorn Saddlery Ogallala, Ne vanhornsaddlery.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites