Satin Sheen Application

[fictionjunkie]

I made a purse and belt. Obviously, both articles will be worn next to clothing so I need to make certain the dye doesn't come off. I dyed the purse using the Eco-Flo Med. Brown Antique Gel and the other with tan-colored oil dye (Fiebings). When I applied the Satin Sheen, the dye rubbed off onto the "slightly damp" sponge. I saw on this website that several people suggested making it THREE coats, so that's what I did. Now my purse and belt look plastic. Could someone PLEASE tell me what I might be doing wrong? The purse and belt looked GOOD until I tried to change them to something other than natural.

Thanks,

Fictionjunkie (maybe I should stay with the books?)

[bkingery]

Welcome,

Two or three coats of satin sheen FIRST then anttique then one or two more coats of satin sheen. Works for me.

Bryan

Edited April 11, 2011 by bkingery

[Jazznow]

Hi,

i had a course on dyeing in February and we talked about acrylic finishes, too (we used Resolene, but I think the use should be similar). We were told to make two coats of finish. The first is made with a quiet dry applicator and the resulting coat is quiet thin. But when its dry, it prevents the dye from coming of, when you do the second coat where the applicator holds enough finish to fill the tooled impressions but still as dry as possible.

A third coat is only made, if the item will face the elements very often (I did 3 coats on the logbook of my father for example).

Maybe you want to try this method on some craps to see if it works for you. Dumb as I am I forgot what we have been told on the course almost instantly^^ You just made me remember So I have no further experience with this method and have to try it, too.

Greetings,

Jonathan

P.S. @bkingery: I always thought that I do finish before dyeing/antiquing only when I want to make some parts of the item resist the dye. Could you explain, why you are doing it your way?

Edited April 12, 2011 by Jazznow