Resist And Leather Dye -

[equiss]

Thank you all for the suggestions, I still have a lot to learn even though I feel I've made progress. I didn't even know you could buy NeatLac in a bottle vs. spray can. So, I have the spray can, but I would like to try the bottle. And this gives me some ideas. I tried again the other night to do another piece, and it came out more "medium brown" all over than "antique" looking, and it was floral with background tooling, so I think what you have said will help a lot - thank you for taking the time!

Charlene

[electrathon]

I prefer to use NeatLac as a final finish. While using Tan Kote is fairly common....Tan Kote is is what is used to "cut" antique paste, so it never made sense to me to use it as a finish when antique has been applied. One additional tip I might offer.

Bobby,

Not to hyjack this post, but this is in line to the question.

First I want to say that you are a far better tooler than I. I am not trying to contradict you but am very curious over this statement.

It is my understanding that the reason to not use Neet-Laq as a second finish coat over the antique is that the antique creates a layer that the Neet-Laq does not bond to. Then, much later, the flexing can make then Neet-Laq pop/chip out of the cracks where the antique is.

I have noticed when using Tan Kote that it does disolve off some of the surface residual that was left behind sort of cleaning up the surface a little better. I don't know if Neet-Laq will do the same thing or not.

Aaron

[hidepounder]

Bobby,

It is my understanding that the reason to not use Neet-Laq as a second finish coat over the antique is that the antique creates a layer that the Neet-Laq does not bond to. Then, much later, the flexing can make then Neet-Laq pop/chip out of the cracks where the antique is.

Aaron

Hi Aaron!

I have heard some of these bizarre claims and it is simply not true! To begin with, antique paste is NOT a sealer. Anything can penetrate it! Additionally Fiebings recommends that Tan Kote NOT be used as a resist because their antique paste will penetrate it. If you read the antique paste label it recommends that Tan Kote be used to "cut" the paste if required. Consequently I don't put the two together. Please don't misunderstand me, I'm not knocking Tan Kote....I like it and use it a lot! And a lot of people use it successfully as a sealer over antique but it doesn't seem like a good practice to me and I just prefer not to use it over an antique finish. It makes a lot more sense to me to use the same product for a finish that I used as a resist. That way I am insured against having any compatibility problems!!! BTW, both products will "lift" the antique color when applied. I have seen NeatLac crack and chip and in every instance it was grossly overused and applied incorrectly. And in most of those instances the NeatLac was sprayed from a can which I recommend against in most csaes. It is best applied with a trimmed wool skin and worked thoroughly into the leather. I like to apply a couple of light coats. I've been using it since the late sixtes and I have never had a problem with it so that is a track record I have confidence in. So anyway, "that's my story and I'm sticking to it!" :>)

Hope this helps.....

Bobby

[whinewine]

Hi Aaron!

I have heard some of these bizarre claims and it is simply not true! To begin with, antique paste is NOT a sealer. Anything can penetrate it! Additionally Fiebings recommends that Tan Kote NOT be used as a resist because their antique paste will penetrate it. If you read the antique paste label it recommends that Tan Kote be used to "cut" the paste if required. Consequently I don't put the two together. Please don't misunderstand me, I'm not knocking Tan Kote....I like it and use it a lot! And a lot of people use it successfully as a sealer over antique but it doesn't seem like a good practice to me and I just prefer not to use it over an antique finish. It makes a lot more sense to me to use the same product for a finish that I used as a resist. That way I am insured against having any compatibility problems!!! BTW, both products will "lift" the antique color when applied. I have seen NeatLac crack and chip and in every instance it was grossly overused and applied incorrectly. And in most of those instances the NeatLac was sprayed from a can which I recommend against in most csaes. It is best applied with a trimmed wool skin and worked thoroughly into the leather. I like to apply a couple of light coats. I've been using it since the late sixtes and I have never had a problem with it so that is a track record I have confidence in. So anyway, "that's my story and I'm sticking to it!" :>)

Hope this helps.....

Bobby

I think some of the confusion concerns the old, turpentine-based antiques. For those, Neatlac did not bond as a final finish coat. I don't know about the more modern, wax-based/paste & gelflo antiques...

russ

[billsreef]

I've been using Neat Lac about 10 years less than Bobby, and I've had the same observations. Haven't had any problems with it when using it as a final sealer over Fiebings Antique gel. Makes for a great combination I think. Haven't had any peel, crack or chip in that time either, and I'm pretty hard on belts and sheaths

[electrathon]

I think some of the confusion concerns the old, turpentine-based antiques. For those, Neatlac did not bond as a final finish coat. I don't know about the more modern, wax-based/paste & gelflo antiques...

russ

This very well could be where it is from. I heard this and accepted that it likely was true, went on from there. I do remember it was over the statement that antique was a wax bassed product (not even sure if that is true) and that it was difficult to bond neet-laq to a wax layer.

My next project I will try using Neet-laq as a top sealer and see how it goes.