Members marine mp Posted May 11, 2011 Members Report Posted May 11, 2011 ClayB and CTS..... make up your own potient. Mix by weight, not volume and rub it in just like you were spit-shining a boot. 1/3rd part bees-wax, 1/3rd part parrafin wax (canning wax) 1/3 part neatsfoot . Waterproof, won't crack, not shiny, cheap!!!!!!! Semper-fi Mike Quote "The first one thru the door...gets the copper-coated candy". ADL Custom Holsters "I've got a LONG list of real good reasons, for all the things that I have done"!!!
Members BigRiverLeather Posted May 16, 2011 Members Report Posted May 16, 2011 I just ordered a 4oz bottle of Angelus #620 Matte Finish Acrylic. When I get it and test it, I will post my results. Quote Big River Leather
MADMAX22 Posted May 16, 2011 Report Posted May 16, 2011 CTS that is the reason I use sno-seal or similar (my own creation as stated above also). It works pretty darn well to protect the leather and if your not going out in the elements everyday doesnt need to be reapplied that often. It doesnt get that cracked finish look when it gets flexed. I really dont use anything else anymore. Quote
Contributing Member TwinOaks Posted May 17, 2011 Contributing Member Report Posted May 17, 2011 I've started using the home-brew that Katsass mentioned on here, and have good results. (Mop-n-glo) I've only had wrinkling/cracking w/ neatlac when it was put on too heavy. A light coat, rubbed in, hasn't peeled/cracked/wrinkled anymore than plain leather. The EDC pouch I made for my leatherman was finished with resolene and after drying and wearing off the 'tacky' feel to it, it has remained almost like the day I built it. There's some wear from rubbing on the fiberglass bucket on my work truck, but the leather is in excellent condition. CTS: If you're using the ECO colors, about the ONLY way you're gonna get a good even coating on your work, without rubbing it off, is to spray it on. Also, pretty much any of the water based ECO dyes are gonna run with exposure to water. The only ways to waterproof leather are: Wax finish, lacquer finish, plastic finish, or use chrome tanned leather that's color fast. Before you give up on the acrylic finishes, try spraying (with an airbrush) at least two coats, with appropriate drying time between them. Quote Mike DeLoach Esse Quam Videri (Be rather than Seem) "Don't learn the tricks of the trade.....Learn the trade." "Teach what you know......Learn what you don't." LEATHER ARTISAN'S DIGITAL GUILD on Facebook.
Members Tina Posted May 17, 2011 Members Report Posted May 17, 2011 I use Angelus Matte finish when I don't need no shine. I apply it with an airgun and it comes out great. The most inexspensive place I have found it in is: http://turtlefeathers.net/text/angelus/miscellaneous-products.html (scroll down a wee bit more than half the page to..."Acryllich Finishers" Quote "He who works with his hands is a laborer. He who works with his hands, and his head is a craftsman. He who works with his hands, and his head, and his heart, is An Artist" http://vildkorpens-laderlya.deviantart.com http://tupali.deviantart.com/
Members Clay B Posted May 20, 2011 Author Members Report Posted May 20, 2011 Thank you everyone for responding. I just got back home from a unexpected trip out of state to help a family member. Clay Quote
Members SpecialKaye Posted September 7, 2011 Members Report Posted September 7, 2011 This may be covered on another thread and if so post the link. As much as I like the look and flexibility of Fiebings Acrylic Resolene, I am really tired of it NOT living up to it's claims and the HOURS of wasted time I spend with it. I make custom instrument straps for recording artists: Guitar, Banjo, Mandolin, etc. My clients need straps that they can flex, roll up, bend shove into a case and even play outdoors where they chance getting caught in an occasional rainstorm. I have been working leather since the 1970s and have used such products as Omega, Neat, Tandy Pro, Fiebings, and Eco-Flow dyes, and antiques. I have used Neat-Lac, Satin Shene, Super Shene, Neat Shene, as well as Acrylic Resolene. Neat Lac does not allow much flexibility and after a short time you get a wrinkled, crackled finish that needs to be re-done. All of the "shenes" and "Resolenes" I have used give a nice Satin Finish - which I like, but the bottom line they all remove color (even the ones that say they do not) and if you only use a few light coats, water still washes off color or spots the finish so bad it has to be re-done. I need a top coat finish FOR LEATHER that is FLEXIBLE, gives some Satin Shine, DOES NOT remove the hours of applying detailed colors and stains I worked to achieve, and one that is REALLY WATER REPELLANT. I need to know how long it will hold up. My clients don't have time to keep re-applying or conditioning a strap every few weeks or so as some conditioners recommend. If some of you know of such a finish, that can be applied BY HAND. Please let me know. Thanks! ~CT ClayB and CTS..... make up your own potient. Mix by weight, not volume and rub it in just like you were spit-shining a boot. 1/3rd part bees-wax, 1/3rd part parrafin wax (canning wax) 1/3 part neatsfoot . Waterproof, won't crack, not shiny, cheap!!!!!!! Semper-fi Mike Well now, I'm starting to design a guitar strap and was wondering about a finish. I plan to try this concoction if I can find a local source for the beeswax and see how it works. Sounds about perfect. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.