hidepounder Posted November 3, 2008 Report Posted November 3, 2008 I cut 90% with head knives...my favorites being Gomphs and W. Rose. I like the smaller blades and I take a lot of time removing the shoulder of the knife back about 3/4". Confidence comes with practice, of course, but with a sharp headknife it is reasonable to expect to cut straight never wander outside the pencil line. I also use a couple of small sharp straight knives...they look like parring knives....and for tight radius inside corners, I use a swivel knife first and then finish with a small straight knife. I think the saddlemakers will bear me out here...ounce you learn to correctly sharpen and use a head knive, you'll also find yourself skiving with one, which saves a lot of time and effort! Just my humble opinion..... Quote
Members escherblacksmith Posted November 11, 2008 Members Report Posted November 11, 2008 I use a reed knife I acquired from my wife when she got a new one. Just keep it sharp. Quote eschew obfuscation
Members DJordan Posted November 24, 2008 Members Report Posted November 24, 2008 For straight and moderate curves, you can't beat the rotary cutter. This little tool will cut thru 8-9 OZ like hot butter..... I concurrrr completely a rotary cutter and a drywall t square cuts like nobodies business! Have you ever come across a pro quality rotary knife? Quote
Members Vikti Posted November 24, 2008 Members Report Posted November 24, 2008 So far I've had great luck with just a utility knife and a broad blade x-acto. I have a friend who is a knife/sword smith and I'm negotiating with him now to make me a custom head knife Quote
Members Go2Tex Posted November 24, 2008 Members Report Posted November 24, 2008 (edited) My round/head knives are my first choice for most leather. Cutting, skiving. A carpet knife works great for rough cutting parts. For trimming I use a small trim knife, one straight blade and one curved, purchased from Weaver. For those tight corners, I design the curve to fit one of my hole punches or strap end punches. It leaves a bit of clean-up work where the two cuts meet, but it's better than trying to get a round knife around it on thick skirting. As for sharpening, I use a Galco sharpening system with the guide for the correct angle. It's the only thing I've been able to get a good edge with. I can shave with it. A strop board keeps all my knives nice and smooth between sharpening. Straight lines are not a problem with a head/round knife. It does take a while on thick, firm stuff but you have the control and you can see where your cut is going. I find that pulling a knife is more difficult to control and I can't see where the line is going because it's behind or under my hand and arm. Edited November 24, 2008 by Go2Tex Quote Brent Tubre email: BCL@ziplinkmail.com
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