Cutting A Tapered Strap

[soloptik]

After extensive use of the search button, I'm at a bit of a loss. I'm a beginner here, mostly making watch straps. My question is how to produce a strap that is anything other than a straight piece with a punched end. For example:

pilot strap

Do you think this was cut with a clicker die? How to make a symmetrical cut on both sides of the strap? Or am I making this more complicated, maybe it's just a pattern traced on to the leather, and cut very carefully with a round knife?

Any help would be hugely appreciated!

[wildrose]

Using a strap end cutter would be the solution. I have an English Bridle strap end cutter and it'd work for something like that. You can get them in different sizes, and cut off only as much as you want.

[soloptik]

Hi, thanks so much for the reply. The part I'm having trouble with isn't the tip though. I've got an english point strap end punch which works well. It's more the contour down the length of the strap. In the photo you can see how it starts off at something like 24mm at the lugs, then midway it tapers down to something like 20mm. I'm wondering if that's done by hand with a knife, and if it's something you would do before or after gluing and folding the strap, or done some other way altogether. Thanks!

Using a strap end cutter would be the solution. I have an English Bridle strap end cutter and it'd work for something like that. You can get them in different sizes, and cut off only as much as you want.

[wildrose]

ahhhh, I understand now - sorry about that. I've had that same issue on sword scabbards, actually. I guess it's easier to do on big items though.

[TwinOaks]

Determine the width you want for the tapered section, subtract from the base width. Divide that number by two and that's the amount you cut off each side. For the transition, mark a point from one end of the strap as the beginning of the transition, and use a repeatable pattern- diameter of a punch, section of a French curve, stencil, etc. Once you've marked it, cut it out. If you have access to to a clicker, it's even easier to do ....once you've designed your die. The clicker is the way to go if you will be producing a large number of the same pattern, and you can make a hammer die (cutter) if you can't afford a press set up.

[Frogman Watch Straps]

Make yourself a template first and then you can use that as a guide to cut the folded leather. Works like a charm. Tapered straps are a pain in the butt....however they look really nice!

[gringobill]

One way to make yourself a template is to take a piece of graph paper, figure out how wide you want your finished strap to be, draw those demsions on the graph paper then and fold it in half and draw your design along the outside edge (not where it's folded,) cut it out with scissors and then either make a better template or carefully use the graph paper. If you going to use it more than once it'll make your life easier if you make the finished product out of heavy paper, poster board, cardboard, manila folders are pretty good. Something that's stiff enough to trace around without it folding up on you.

[rawhide1]

Here's how I do mine. Say I have a 1" strap that's 2foot long and I want to taper it down to 3/4" six inchs from the end. I take a pair of dividers and set them at 1/8" and then lightly mark my strap on both sides from the six inch mark on down to the end of the strap. I will then take a English end punch ( which ever size works best) and place the point on the edge of my strap at the 6" mark and the curve of the punch on my scribed line. I will wack this with a maul I then take my round knife and finish the long straight cut. This gives a nice curve at the transition and the round knife will make a nice straight cut.

I'm not saying this the best or only way but it works great for me.

Best of luck, Mike

[threepets]

Thankyou rawhide1, I am now able to taper my straps satisfactorily. My first attempt ..not so hot , but I see with practice this will give me the strap taper I am looking for .

[Rahere]

I've just tried using a digital caliper as a scriber, I'm a fan! A spline curve's defined by 4 points, start and end are known, you set your curve there and mark the intercepts at two arbitrary points, project the distances (lock the caliper) to the other side (I hold it against a thick steel straitedge both in setting and transcribing), flip the curve and match the points. It may help to apply masking tape to the curve to register the points on there too.