Three More Off The Bench

[Sanch]

Ok so here are the next three holsters sorry about the photo quality on them.

[katsass]

Ok so here are the next three holsters sorry about the photo quality on them

Good morning sd; since I can't see too much of your auto holster (and I have a preference for wheel-guns) I'll just talk about them. First, your stitching looks better than ever, don't see much puckering etc. Maybe a mistake or two on the top pic (or it's the light) but better overall. I would prefer to see it closer to the edge of the holster and more uniform in distance from that edge. I'd also like to see it conform to he shape of the shooter to a much greater degree ..... actually, I'd prefer to see the holster shape conform to the gun more also.

Now, I'm a traditionalist in my likes and dislikes in holsters, so some of your design characteristics rub me the wrong way. I'm not knocking your workmanship in the following observations, just adding my thoughts as to what I personally think would make your designs more desirable to a narrow minded old fart like myself. First, I like an open toe holster. Crud can (and will) end up in the toe of your rigs, and NOBODY ever looks and cleans it out. Second; as said before, conform the holster to the shape of the shooter to a greater degree. If you can, take a peek at the book "Packing Iron" by Richard Rattenbury. This, IMHO, is the finest collection of photos of actual holsters etc. from the Civil War up into the 20th century. It'll help you in designing your stuff.... especially for wheel-guns. I use it as a reference frequently. It shows exactly how holster construction progressed over time. Now, you have 'boned' the outline of both guns ....... pretty heavily, Even the trigger guard AND trigger (in the Ruger holster). WHY? To me, this sort of molding actually detracts from the pleasing shape of a well designed holster. It should be (IMO) molded by hand around (not into) the trigger guard, cylinder, and frame of the shooter, and just leave the barrel alone. A well molded, FIRM holster will allow the gun to slip in and give a quiet "thuck" sound as it seats in the leather. Actual seating takes place (or should take place) at the front of the frame, the bottom (front) of the trigger guard and the front of the cylinder. Although there were flat topped holsters waaaay back, these were in the minority, and you, as a maker would benefit from a more 'sculpted' design up top. This, unless you are making an historically accurate reproduction holster. You have added a piece as a mouth reinforcement OR an added visual enhancement. If it is needed for firmness in the mouth you may be using too light a weight of leather, OR leather from the wrong part of the hide OR your drying method is not satisfactory to firming up the leather, OR .......? If for visual enhancement you did good...with the exception that you might try to balance it's size to fit a bit better with the overall size of the holster. Maybe a bit too much of a good thing in these rigs. I enclose a pic (the only one that I don't have to wander through my computer to find) of a little wheel-gun holster. If you look closely, you can see the forming around the trigger guard, the same at the front of the cylinder and frame. It has an open toe, the stitching is close to the edge, and the overall shape is more in line with the shape of the pistol. Just an example of what I'm talking about.

Now, I no "expert", and I personally dislike the term as usually understood.... a person that knows 'everything' To me, a self proclaimed expert is more often than not an EX (a has-been) combined with a SPURT (a drip under pressure). I hope you take my comments in the vein in which I made them ... as constructive comments, hoping that in the future I'll be able to ask for your advice and/or comments on my work. Keep at it. Mike

Edited May 16, 2011 by katsass

[Sanch]

Mike once again your criticism is welcome and not taken in any ill manner. I advised the owner of both wheel guns about the closed toe and he insisted so whats a guy to do!? Thank you for your input again I do appreciate it.

[katsass]

Mike once again your criticism is welcome and not taken in any ill manner. I advised the owner of both wheel guns about the closed toe and he insisted so whats a guy to do!? Thank you for your input again I do appreciate it.

Just another suggestion, if you don't already have it, get hold of Al Stohlman's book "How To Make Holsters". At $12 - $15 it's well worth it. I bought mine in about '62 or '63 and still have it. Very good for referance. Mike

[Sanch]

Just another suggestion, if you don't already have it, get hold of Al Stohlman's book "How To Make Holsters". At $12 - $15 it's well worth it. I bought mine in about '62 or '63 and still have it. Very good for referance. Mike

"

Will be getting it soon thanks. Stealf

[Big O]

Personally, I like detailed molding, even a little inside the trigger guard.

....but seeing the trigger ITSELF show up in the molding gives me the heebie-jeebies.....

[Rayban]

I'm REALLY digging the Ruger bird/design on the first holster...I've tried doing that in the past and I sucked at it..I realize now that it's probably because I tried staying too close to the trademark design, instead of doing something more creative like you have done......

...same with the holster design...you stepped out side of the box and I like that...looks badass.....

Now go to your room and don't come out til you have matching belts for these bad boyz......

[marine mp]

Stealfdawg, Nice pieces, all. To each his own and, I, like Mike and BigO, am by no way, shape or form, claim to know very much at all, about the art of holstery. And thats what it is......an art form. You have accomplished that and your work is a extention of yourself and of those who request your talent. I agree with Mike, in that the separate added piece really isn't necessary if the right leather weight is used. I personally think it detracts from the beauty of the piece and is unnecessary, unless requested or is your trademark. If the holster is a concealment piece, it just adds to the undesireable thickness, as most CCW's need to be as streamlined as possible. Secondly, as Mike and BigO have already stated, the boneing and detail in the trigger-guard areas is a bit much. I hope these observations are just that...observations. The holsters are intense and pieces of art that are truly georgeous. Your designs in the leather are very good and your sewing is spectcular. Keep up the great work and build them as you see fit. Just remember that if some of the requests you may get from customers may sometimes

go against what you believe to be safe or condusive to a unsafe outcome, it is better to try to persuade the customer to let you build a safer product or concede his offer. Anyways, enough of my ramblings. Great work. Semper-fi Mike

[Eaglestroker]

Personally, I like detailed molding, even a little inside the trigger guard.

....but seeing the trigger ITSELF show up in the molding gives me the heebie-jeebies.....

From my very limited works I've found that molding the trigger in from the backside can greatly increase your retention without causing the front lines to loose aesthetically. Kind of like in my recent K frame thread for reference. I personally like the front of the trigger or at least a portion to be exposed.

To the OP, the Ruger carving is very nice. If you back off on the molding some It would make it an extremely attractive holster as well!

Edited May 17, 2011 by Eaglestroker

[Sanch]

For all of the criticism both to the positive and not so positive I would like to thank all of you! For those that feel the way I do and that is making functional art SAFE functional art thank you for the positive feedback the "intense boning is done with a purpose I feel that the weapons should be shown while in the holster kinda like looking at a pretty gal (ladies please forgive) you dont have to see her skint to appreciate her beauty plus a nicely dressed woman is easier on the eyes. And the kicker to all of this is that the owner has been elated. Design wise I still am looking and finding what works for me and I have gleaned a little from what I've seen and there's a little of every thing that I have been exposed to here. So anything that I take positive and negative is still POSITIVE because I learn and for this I am greatful. Gun belts are gonna be on the list!

[TwinOaks]

In the spirit of the other Mike's post, one of the reasons for NOT molding inside the trigger guard is that it subjects that bit of leather to additional wear. If you're lining the holsters, that's one thing, but if it's just flesh side, then regardless of how well you smoothed/slicked it, it will eventually get fuzzy. And just my opinion, but the fire control portion of any gun is the wrong place to be gaining fuzzies. There's also the small point that if that is part of the tension of the holster, then as it wears, and the leather gets 'flexible' where the trigger guard slides past it, your holster will lose tension/retention. If you look at the pinned holster tutorial in the beginning of this sub-forum (the one by Jim Simmons), he teaches how to measure the gun and build the holster to that measurement. The holster is sized to be slightly spread laterally by the width of the cylinder, and axially by the height of the frame from trigger guard to top strap, but never to the point that the leather is 'rubbed raw'. The result is that the whole holster grips the gun, along more of the gun, not one or two specific areas that may be prone to breakdown from repeated use.

[Sanch]

TwinOaks thank-you for your reply and the lateral spread at the cylinder you speak of is actually what is holding the weapons and mininising the wear around the guard areas and keeping the trigger clear of any unwanted squeeze the intent was to bring out the silluet (sp) of the guard and trigger, also the boning down the barrels and ejector are there to aid in retention. I am aware there will be some wear in both of the aforesaid areas. I by no stretch of the imagination am professing or assuming to know anything other than these are my attempts to learn this craft /artform, also I am accepting all criticism open arms so that I can learn. So to you sir once again thank you for sharing in my education. Stealf ..

Edited May 17, 2011 by stealfdawg

[Sanch]

From my very limited works I've found that molding the trigger in from the backside can greatly increase your retention without causing the front lines to loose aesthetically. Kind of like in my recent K frame thread for reference. I personally like the front of the trigger or at least a portion to be exposed.

To the OP, the Ruger carving is very nice. If you back off on the molding some It would make it an extremely attractive holster as well!

Thanks and will trying boning the backside more and the front less on my next auto holster . Dont see anymore wheel guns in the next couple of weeks.