Taper Pin Removal From 29K58

[amuckart]

http://parts.singerc...%20TO%20K33.pdf

Right, that one worked in preview, if it don't work after posting I don't know what will. Click it, don't copy and paste, the forum software obfuscates it in the posting.

[gordond]

Hi Alasdair and all

just confirming the 29K58 Check lever joint pin is part # 8554.[Thread take-up]

this tapered pin is used "throughout" the 29 Class machines....at least per the 5 parts manuals I have

[i.e.....29-4...29K51,53,55,56 ... 58,60,62....70.....71,72,73].

I need to get one of these out [K58] , but had the same issue -tricky, so left it for a more patient time.

cheers

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

Score! that one worked, just didn't show what I was hoping for, and exploded view that shows the relationship of each part to the other. From the other comments it sounds like you have the direction correct, but may not have a solid backing to drive against. Take you time, so you don't damage anything. Can you post a pic of what you are dealing with?

[amuckart]

Gordon: That's one of the ones I need to shift. I'm also completely failing to get others to move, vis:

"Balance wheel shaft pin" Plate 161 part 11663.

"Needle Bar Driving Lever Joint Pin" Plate 161 part 8586 (at least I'm assuming the "needle bar driving lever" is the rocker arm thingy on the top of the machine)

Biggun Dr: Thanks for your help. I'll take pictures tonight and add them here. I'm sure I've seen an exploded diagram of a 29k clone but I'm darned if I can find one now. I'll poke around on my hard drive when I get home though.

It's not mentioned in that parts list but on the k58 there's also a taper pin that's part of what holds the rack assembly onto the arm of the machine and that's refusing to shift either, and that's the one pin I can (albeit awkwardly) back up with a bit of wood wi' a hole in. There's all sorts of frozen stuff on this machine. I had to resort to an impact driver to get the rack assembly screws to move. I couldn't even get them to turn with the impact bit in a socket wrench.

It's difficult to get the needle bar driving lever joint pin backed up with anything because I can't get the @$!#$!@!! balance wheel off the side of the machine. All the grub screws shift really easily but there's a big ol' screw in the middle of it that I simply cannot get to shift either. I'm not real keen on going after that one with an impact driver.

Cheers.

Sometimes they are hard to get out,if never had to drill one in the 100's I've worked on.It might help to support the front part w/a a small nut around the pin & put a hammer against the nut so more force of the hammer from the back will go into the pin.

If you don't understand what I mean & can post a pic tomorrow.

Bob

Thanks Bob, that makes sense, even if it does sound like an operation that requires about five arms :-) I'll give it a go.

[Anne Bonnys Locker]

Do you actually need to remove all of them?

Once you get the main one out from the top rocker arm the whole rocker arm can be lifted out.

[amuckart]

Hi Darren,

Do you actually need to remove all of them?

Once you get the main one out from the top rocker arm the whole rocker arm can be lifted out.

Alas, the one holding the top rocker arm is one of the ones giving me real trouble.

I finally managed to get the balance wheel off the front of the machine by deploying a Bigger Wrench which let me lay it down and I managed to get the one holding the thread take-up lever out after following Bob and Biggun Dr's advice. The three remaining ones that are stubbornly stuck are the one holding the rack assembly in, the one holding the rocker arm on the top and the one holding the drive wheel on the main shaft. None of them are shifting so much as a millimetre, even when backed up by a solid thing with a hole for the pin.

Of those, the only one I don't really have to shift is the one holding the drive wheel on, but I need to get the other two out to get this machine working properly. It would make life much easier if I could get the drive wheel off too.

[Anne Bonnys Locker]

Hi Darren,

Alas, the one holding the top rocker arm is one of the ones giving me real trouble.

I finally managed to get the balance wheel off the front of the machine by deploying a Bigger Wrench which let me lay it down and I managed to get the one holding the thread take-up lever out after following Bob and Biggun Dr's advice. The three remaining ones that are stubbornly stuck are the one holding the rack assembly in, the one holding the rocker arm on the top and the one holding the drive wheel on the main shaft. None of them are shifting so much as a millimetre, even when backed up by a solid thing with a hole for the pin.

Of those, the only one I don't really have to shift is the one holding the drive wheel on, but I need to get the other two out to get this machine working properly. It would make life much easier if I could get the drive wheel off too.

There is a pin removal tool available. The smallest ones are used on pushbike chains with the design such that the back is supported to avoid bending, or, in this case, terminal cracking.

When driving pins out you should use a 'drift', something made of a softer metal than the pin. Brass is good as it will not deform the pin head.

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

Good job on the ones out so far.

Don't know if you can get it where you live, but I have a penetrating oil here that is called Kroil, and it is amazing stuff. It is advertised as penetrating gaps as small as 1,000,000th of an inch, and I believe it. You may have to take a break from this project, and let some type of penetrant do some of the work while you do something else, especially if you have gunked, or rusted parts.

Glad the wood worked, but even wood will not stop all of the impact, even your eucalyptus. My bench block is made of steel. Another thing that you need if the backer is hand held is weight, Sometimes I have had to have a friend hold a big block of steel behind what I was driving. It acts like an anvil would, and will stop the inertia of the hammer blow solidly. You will see bucks being used in old movies of bridge riveting, and aircraft production. If the buck bounces on the back side it is too light.

If you do need to apply some heat to get the parts separated the outer part will need to be heated quickly to expand it before everything else gets heated too. You shouldn't have to get much more than 300F to do it, unless someone Loc-Tited the pins in, then you will need to get up around 400F to loosen them up.

Again, good job so far, just don't get impatient, and you should be fine.

[amuckart]

Don't know if you can get it where you live, but I have a penetrating oil here that is called Kroil, and it is amazing stuff. It is advertised as penetrating gaps as small as 1,000,000th of an inch, and I believe it. You may have to take a break from this project, and let some type of penetrant do some of the work while you do something else, especially if you have gunked, or rusted parts.

I'm familiar with it from domestic sewing machine lists I'm on. I've found one place that sells it in New Zealand, but they wanted darn near as much for a little bottle as I paid for this machine. An 8oz bottle is, what, ten bucks in the US? This place wanted forty-something NZ for one.

According to testing carried out by someone on one of the domestic SM lists, a 1:1 mix of power steering fluid and acetone is actually a better penetrant/release agent than Kroil. Not sure I'd use it as a bore cleaner though.

Glad the wood worked, but even wood will not stop all of the impact, even your eucalyptus. My bench block is made of steel. Another thing that you need if the backer is hand held is weight, Sometimes I have had to have a friend hold a big block of steel behind what I was driving. It acts like an anvil would, and will stop the inertia of the hammer blow solidly. You will see bucks being used in old movies of bridge riveting, and aircraft production. If the buck bounces on the back side it is too light.

If you do need to apply some heat to get the parts separated the outer part will need to be heated quickly to expand it before everything else gets heated too. You shouldn't have to get much more than 300F to do it, unless someone Loc-Tited the pins in, then you will need to get up around 400F to loosen them up.

Again, good job so far, just don't get impatient, and you should be fine.

Thanks for all the information and assistance. I'll probably wait until the weekend when I can dig my length of rail track out of the garage. That's the closest thing I've got to a bench block. I'm pretty sure I've peened the big pin at least a little bit so I'll have to hunt out my safe-edge file too and take the rim off

[amuckart]

Gordon, who has much more luck finding stuff on the 'net than I do found the exploded diagram of a model 29k and a parts chart for the 29U - the last version that Singer made, but it's fundamentally the same beast as all of the later model 29ks. This isn't the one I was thinking of, but it's close enough.

29U Parts Chart

Page five of this pdf, part #8586 is the one that's giving me grief.

29K exploded Diagram

Cheers.