Newbie's Holster

[StrayDogLamont]

Greetings Folks!

I'm a newbie here, but as an introduction, I thought that I'd place my newest leather project up: a half-flap holster for myself. It is made of approximately 9 oz leather. The leather I used already was scarred, so I thought it would be perfect for a distressed look - it's not supposed to look pretty, just functional. The style I chose to simulate was one from around 1879. Generally speaking, aside from the military, flap holsters pretty much ceased to be used by 1890.

I began to do leatherwork when I began making knives - they need sheaths you know. Anyway, I've been doing this for about four years now.

Please, feel free to critique. I am an amateur, and I came to this site for advice and information. Oh, and don't be afraid to hurt my feelings - I served in the Marines (1989-1993).

Thank you for your attention, and may God bless.

[builderofstuff]

I think it looks great.

Chris

[1911 Operator]

I also think it looks pretty good. I think the picture is the only poor quality. I would like to see the stitches a little more clearly. But from what I can tell, your edges look good, your color is even. Now it just needs used a whole bunch to sell that distressed look.

Over all very nice job.

[StrayDogLamont]

You folks are very kind. I am attaching another picture which shows the stitches more clearly. Incidentally, I'm still working on the distressed look - the scars are just a head-start!

I also think it looks pretty good. I think the picture is the only poor quality. I would like to see the stitches a little more clearly. But from what I can tell, your edges look good, your color is even. Now it just needs used a whole bunch to sell that distressed look.

Over all very nice job.

[Peter Ellis]

It looks to me as if you drilled the holes for the stitches. I don't have a problem with that, but in this case it looks like the holes are quite a bit larger than they needed to be for the thread you used. Tighter fit would help the stitching look better as well as not catching crud in the excess space that is likely to shorten the overall life expectancy of the piece.

Nevertheless, it's a nice piece. Get the stitching tightened up that little bit and you'll be looking really sharp

[Chief31794]

It looks to me as if you drilled the holes for the stitches. I don't have a problem with that, but in this case it looks like the holes are quite a bit larger than they needed to be for the thread you used. Tighter fit would help the stitching look better as well as not catching crud in the excess space that is likely to shorten the overall life expectancy of the piece.

Nevertheless, it's a nice piece. Get the stitching tightened up that little bit and you'll be looking really sharp

X2 plus it looks like the stitches are a little too long, a few more stitches per inch and the stitching would look a lot nicer, just my $.02

[StrayDogLamont]

Thanks Peter. Yes, I drilled the holes, and they could have been smaller for sure. I have a heckuva time getting the needles I have through anything smaller. I suppose the answer is "buy smaller needles!" Thanks again.

It looks to me as if you drilled the holes for the stitches. I don't have a problem with that, but in this case it looks like the holes are quite a bit larger than they needed to be for the thread you used. Tighter fit would help the stitching look better as well as not catching crud in the excess space that is likely to shorten the overall life expectancy of the piece.

Nevertheless, it's a nice piece. Get the stitching tightened up that little bit and you'll be looking really sharp

[StrayDogLamont]

The stitches are about 3/8ths of an inch apart (give or take) I could bring them to 1/4 or less, I suppose. How close should they be? I'm here to learn. Thanks Chief.

X2 plus it looks like the stitches are a little too long, a few more stitches per inch and the stitching would look a lot nicer, just my $.02

[Chief31794]

The stitches are about 3/8ths of an inch apart (give or take) I could bring them to 1/4 or less, I suppose. How close should they be? I'm here to learn. Thanks Chief.

StrayDogLamont,

Most stitching is done at 5, 6, or 7 stitches per inch, at 3/8" that is about 2.6 inches per inch. Most people use an overstitch device to layout the stitch holes for drilling, awling, etc. They are relatively inexpensive and Tandy has a set with all three wheels for less than $20.00 ($12.00 if you're an elite warehouse member). It is pictured below:

Your project looks great, but I think more stitches per inch would improve the overall appearance and the security of the stitching.

Hope this helps,

Ken

[1911 Operator]

Thanks Peter. Yes, I drilled the holes, and they could have been smaller for sure. I have a heckuva time getting the needles I have through anything smaller. I suppose the answer is "buy smaller needles!" Thanks again.

I use the Tandy Hand sewing needles. It can be very hard to get the needles though, but thats what sets hand sewn apart from machine (in some cases.) And I use a over stitch wheel to mark the holes, but I use a 4 prong punch from Tandy to make the holes. I'm sure there are other ways, I just happen to use the 4 prong punch. Maybe I missed it, but what hand sewing system are you using? Awl or single thread double needle?

One other side note about the stitching, I grove my stitch line. I like the thread to sit flush with the surface. After finishing my stitching, I take the over stitch wheel and run it over the stitches i just sew'd and it evens them out, even helps remove excess wax. In my signature, you can see my website, and there is a gallery with examples of my work. Still learning myself, so take it for what it is.

Keep up the great work.

[StrayDogLamont]

I use both types of hand sewing depending on the project. I have an awl which I'll use for long lines of stitches, and two curved needles which I use for small/tight areas, or areas which need extra strength. I often groove my stitch lines on the inside, such as where a belt loop will be sewn - knives are sharp. In the case of this holster, the belt loop and the flap-loop have grooved stitch lines on the inside to eliminate the possibility of the pistol breaking the stitches. Thanks for the tips on tools. I really should get some of these things - I've been doing leatherwork without purchasing any leather tools (the awl was a gift). The only specialty tool I have is a slicker, and I made that. The overstitch wheel and 4-prong punch sound like terrific tools I should have. Thanks again for your help.

I use the Tandy Hand sewing needles. It can be very hard to get the needles though, but thats what sets hand sewn apart from machine (in some cases.) And I use a over stitch wheel to mark the holes, but I use a 4 prong punch from Tandy to make the holes. I'm sure there are other ways, I just happen to use the 4 prong punch. Maybe I missed it, but what hand sewing system are you using? Awl or single thread double needle?

One other side note about the stitching, I grove my stitch line. I like the thread to sit flush with the surface. After finishing my stitching, I take the over stitch wheel and run it over the stitches i just sew'd and it evens them out, even helps remove excess wax. In my signature, you can see my website, and there is a gallery with examples of my work. Still learning myself, so take it for what it is.

Keep up the great work.