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You've been in the business of making holsters for a while now - who uses them regulary? Don't think leather - think kydex.... Pick/choose any of those manufacturers....

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DOH!!! :head_hurts_kr: You got me there.

I never asked any of the kydex holster manufacturers. I have only seen them use non barbed t-posts or chicago screws. Thanks for the idea, I'll give it a shot.

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Why don't ya'll take a minute (and a breather) and think about who uses the blackened t-nuts in the manufacturing of their holsters. Then contact them and ask them where they get them from. You might be able to buy them direct from that manufacturer or they may turn you on to where they get them from.... It's really that simple.

Perhaps, although I spoke with some of the kydex makers many moons ago and none were willing to share their source. I have suspected all along they paid to have a large batch oxided, chromed or whatever.....but then again perhaps I was not taking my sweet pills that day. Certainly if you know of a source and would like to share it we would be appreciative and could save some time. At present we are either going to have a large scale purchase organized here, or there will be a solution (no pun intended) which will allow each of us to have a professional alternative in our respective locations.....investing a couple hundred dollars might well make sense....

How's your health Kevin? Hope all remains well with you. take care of yourself!

Staying tuned B)

Brock, will this DIY kit be for multiple types of metal? McMaster has several varieties of Tnuts. Which and why? I'll keep looking around.

yes, according to the company (and again I want to see evidence of their product before investing money and touting them here) you could choose chemicals for aluminum, steel, stainless steel, or zinc plated items. The problem with the ZP is that some zinc is eroded in the chemical process....if the item is not heavily plated in zinc, the process can erode enough that there will be insufficient zinc left to blacken. In this case it appears that one would have to then go add a chemical designed for the underlying metal adding to the overall expense.

I have another similar company to speak with tomorrow and will set up a trial there, too, before announcing any results and pointing anyone the a particular business doors. The bluing ideas do not seem solid at this point, and neither does the idea of duracoating as the manufacturer suggested that the nuts be sandblasted prior to application of the duracoat which negated most of the idea for me as I do not want to take up that much permanent real estate in my shop.

Hang tight everyone......I will be posting information on my research within the next week as I get some answers. Perhaps Kevin will post some solutions, or Jeff may have some luck, too.

take care

Edited by BluegrassHolsters

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yes, according to the company (and again I want to see evidence of their product before investing money and touting them here) you could choose chemicals for aluminum, steel, stainless steel, or zinc plated items. The problem with the ZP is that some zinc is eroded in the chemical process....if the item is not heavily plated in zinc, the process can erode enough that there will be insufficient zinc left to blacken. In this case it appears that one would have to then go add a chemical designed for the underlying metal adding to the overall expense.

I hadn't even considered that but that's a fairly significant scenario.

Thanks for the update all around.

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I found them at a number of the kydex holster manufacturers. Only one was willing to reveal his source, but you had to buy in very large quantity, i.e., 25-50 thousand. The majority of the others were willing to sell from their stock.

Edited by K-Man

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I found them at a number of the kydex holster manufacturers. Only one was willing to reveal his source, but you had to buy in very large quantity, i.e., 25-50 thousand. The majority of the others were willing to sell from their stock.

Yep! As I was told, too, which is why the desire to find a process which allows the individual to do their own blackening. If the process is not too laborious some of us might be able to make an extra 100 or so for the smaller guys (example, I might be willing to make a few extra for someone while making several hundred for myself). If the cost is right, the addition of such a process to myself, you, Jeff, and a few others might well not be a deal breaker.....but again I am still finalizing the details and looks with a couple companies as I write.

Sheesh....not only do I not want to cart 25K of tee-nuts into my shop, I am not sure where I would store them.....and even if 4 of us split an order we would each have to store 6250 tee-nuts!

Good Grief! :head_hurts_kr:

The DIY solution seems the best answer all around for the small maker....stay tuned for more info as I have it.....

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Better get busy, thats alot of holsters to make :rofl: Just a thought....couldn't a person make some small cuts on the barrell of a chicago screw and bend it to make a pointy flange ?

Edited by Jordan

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I guess I don't understand, Brock. Why are you going through all the research/labor to make them yourself if they're readily available through some of the kydex holster manufacturers? Not trying to say you shouldn't do what you want to do, but it just seems like a lot of effort for little return. I agree that going with a direct manufacturer of the t-nuts, at the rate of 25k, would be an unrealistic endeavor for most. But even at the rate of 6,000 per person, that really doesn't take up as much room as you might think. You could probably put that many in a couple of 12" x 12" x 12" boxes. Are you that tight on space, that you wouldn't be able to accomodate such a small box?

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I don't know about anyone else, but I don't want to tie up that much capital in t-nuts right now. I am still just breaking even at this point, so I try not to spend any more than I have to to keep things running. In the future that will change, but for now what I want to do doesn't matter as much as what I am able to do, if you follow my meaning. To that ende, it is actually more expedient for me to pay a little more for fewer items if it means I don't have to invest as much immediately.

For all I know the rest of you are just too cheap to buy that many :P .

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What is the material of the T- Nut you need? If Aluminum you could do Black Anodizing at your home or shop. I remember back about 5 years ago when I was in Paintball, there are easy kits at about $100 that you can buy to Anodize your self. I had a couple buddies re-anodize their guns and they turned out pretty nice, a hell of a lot less than sending them out for Anodizing? The other thing is once you have the tools and materials, you can repeat the process rather cheaply. As far as the treads go, you can use a plastic plug to keep the anodizing off of it, or just chase it with a tap when you are done. I believe the coating on anodizing is only a few thousands of an inch. Hope this helps, if not it was an Idea.

The other thing, is if you want to get really froggy you can anodize any color you want.

Found the Link: http://www.warpig.com/paintball/technical/anodize.shtml

I am thinking for a T-Nut, you can set this up on a lot smaller scale to get the results you require with out to much cost.

Edited by FrankCastle

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Thanks for the idea, Frank. I heard that home anodizing was being restricted by the EPA, but this makes me wonder if that's true. I would rather not use aluminum nuts if I could keep from it, though the idea of custom colored hardware is pretty tempting.... Hmmmmmm......

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Thanks for the idea, Frank. I heard that home anodizing was being restricted by the EPA, but this makes me wonder if that's true. I would rather not use aluminum nuts if I could keep from it, though the idea of custom colored hardware is pretty tempting.... Hmmmmmm......

I am not sure how the EPA can regulate this, seeing how all the materials can be easily obtained. The other thing is, how would they know you were anodizing? As far as the colors, I think white is the only problem, everything else can be mixed and matched to your liking. Like I said, seems like this could be a solution to the issue stated by the OP.

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I would suspect 'anodizing yourself' could be painful or at the very least embarassing :rofl:

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I picked up some regular T-nuts at Menards last night for one of my custom projects but not black that is for sure. You could use black automotive paint on the zink t-nuts to change the look.

If someone finds a source, I would be interested also in a share of them.

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Well, this has fascinated me, so I tried an experiment.

While I was exploring the "vinegaroon" dye method, I had read that it worked on metals too. So last night, I dropped several kinds of screws into the mixture. The galvanized didn't work. The zinced didn't work, but the ordinary screws did go black. There was some rub off, but did not go back to the original color...maybe several dips might work, or add oil...needs more experimenting.

I have a fastenall store just down the stret from me. I'll visit it later today, and see what they offer too.

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Well, this has fascinated me, so I tried an experiment.

While I was exploring the "vinegaroon" dye method, I had read that it worked on metals too. So last night, I dropped several kinds of screws into the mixture. The galvanized didn't work. The zinced didn't work, but the ordinary screws did go black. There was some rub off, but did not go back to the original color...maybe several dips might work, or add oil...needs more experimenting.

I have a fastenall store just down the stret from me. I'll visit it later today, and see what they offer too.

Reminds me of POR15. Its an automotive chemical that is used to convert rust to a black coating on the frames/chassis of vehicles. I imagine the process is similar to putting Naval Jelly on a spot of rust.

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I went down to the Fastenall store...no tee nuts in house, you have to order them. $15 per hundred, plus you have to get the right screws..np problem there. However, they don't show a black oxided one in the catalog. They offer services to do what you want, so you have to contact them to see what cost to blacken.

Still think the vinegaroon will work pretty good. I'm redipping them for another 24 hrs to see if they blacken more.

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Let me make a couple of phone calls tomorrow, and I may have the solution/availability of these evasive black t-nuts. Initial info shows you'll be able to use them for 8/32 screws/shaft as well as with the pull the dot snaps. I'll post new info/pricing/availability tomorrow.

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Let me make a couple of phone calls tomorrow, and I may have the solution/availability of these evasive black t-nuts. Initial info shows you'll be able to use them for 8/32 screws/shaft as well as with the pull the dot snaps. I'll post new info/pricing/availability tomorrow.

Thanks Kevin!

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Here's what we'll be able to initially offer:

8/32 black t-nut

8/32 black screw, .5" length (If you need a different length, let me know, and I can see if it's available.)

3/32 allen wrench

black cup washer

We will set up pricing to buy the above as a "set," rather than individual pricing of the items. That way you can save a little bit. There will also be a minimum $$ order amount ~$25.00 + shipping.

You will also be able to buy the above pieces individually if you desire.

We are working on a black screw that will have an 8/32 shaft with a 6/32 head in order to fit in the Pull The Dot Snap (or similar) sets. Hope to have those details worked out soon.

Feel free to contact me if you have any questions. I'll post the pricing on the above soon.

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