Glues

[Tentman]

Hello Folks

I'm real interested in what sort of glues saddlemakers are using these days when fitting seats, swell covers and the like to the tree. 20 Years ago I used to glue after they were shaped but before they were completely dry with latex type glues but there must be a better way now !

Thanks

Foster

Edited June 27, 2011 by Tentman

[George B]

Foster, I use a premium wood glue to adhere the fork cover, seat, horn wrap, horn cap, cantle back, cheyene rolls, and gullet cover. It allows more time to correct any alignment and shape them. Other slow drying adhesives are also used, everybody has a favorite. Pretty much everything else, I use Barge Cement.

[LonnieChambers]

Hello Foster

Good question on the glue. I build saddles and any kind of cowboy gear you can think of. I use barge leather cement. This has worked pretty good for me. I put the glue on bolth peices that are going together. Let the glue set up, to the point that it is almost not sticky. Them put the peices together. The only problem with the glue when you put it on this way is it stickes pretty good. There is no time for adjusting, so you better be on the mark when you stick your lether together. As for glueing leather to a tree. I used to scuff the tree where the leather was going to be glued, this was on a timberline tree. I swithed to a bill bean tree. I went to vist Bill Bean in his tree making shop. We talked about glue. On glueing your leather down to your tree. He said that you do not need to scuff the tree. The glue will stick just fine. I have done some testing and Bill was right. So the barge cement does me pretty good.

Thanks

Lonnie Chambers

[bruce johnson]

I use Renia pretty much for everything. It seems a little stronger than Barge for me and tacks up quicker. If I need to stick and stay, I let it tack up. If I need to adjust and slide, I will slather it on both sides wet and go to it before it tacks. It will slide around like wet Barge and then stick once left alone.

It also heat activates like Barge. I can put on a couple light coats, let it dry, and then soak the piece. Once I take it out of the tub I just pat the water off and hit it with a paint stripping gun, Tacks right back up like Barge. Better bonding on latigo than Barge too.

[JHayek]

I have always used s-18 which is similar to leather factorys "tanners bond" I prefer it over barge because it tacks up faster and seems to hold better. another benefit is it doesn't crystalize over time like barge does. For saddle skirts I like to use rubber cement because it is easier to replace woolskin later. Some guys like to use dexetrine paste for swell covers but the s-18 seems to work fine for me I just put it on really wet and hurry a bit. I also use the same process as Bruce mentioned for gluing wet leather. What are the plusses of Renia? I would like to find something that works like a good contact cement without the fumes, is there something out there?

Edited July 9, 2011 by JHayek

[LonnieChambers]

bruce

Where do you get your Renia glue at. I am open for exsperimenting with new glues. How good does the Renia work on oily latigo. And you guys are right about the barge taking a long time to set up before you can stik it. How are the fumes with the Renia

Lonnie

[mworthan]

I used Barge to start with. Aaron from Panhandle asked me to try Masters and I can say with 100% conviction it is, hands down, the best I've used so far. Thinner, faster, stronger period...

Call Panhandle and ask for Aaron. He'll take care of you. BTW, I used Titebond II dark glue for the hornwraps and swell covers, everything else gets the Masters. I like the dark glue because any tell-tell glue line looks like antiqueing and doesn't resist staining like a lot of the common yellow or white glues. I guess if I was doing a real "bleached" show saddle I wouldn't use the walnut glue.

Thanks,

Mike from Rome, GA

[bruce johnson]

I get the Renia by piggybacking onto another guy's order. It comes from a shoe supply distibuter and they have a route. I have seen it for sale through other shoe supply houses on the internet. It is NOT less toxic than Barge, and actually has more smell than Barge. I use it either under the covered porch out the back or open the big door if there is a good breeze. On the few times I use it inside closed up, I mask up, do my glueing and then leave it overnight with a window open some.

The guy I get mine with used to use Masters, but found this better. It does latigo pretty well. I do a lot of doubled and stitched latigo reins and it works well. I can still peel it apart to insert a popper, but it won't come apart while sewing like Barge did if you weren't paying attention.

[mworthan]

I get the Renia by piggybacking onto another guy's order. It comes from a shoe supply distibuter and they have a route. I have seen it for sale through other shoe supply houses on the internet. It is NOT less toxic than Barge, and actually has more smell than Barge. I use it either under the covered porch out the back or open the big door if there is a good breeze. On the few times I use it inside closed up, I mask up, do my glueing and then leave it overnight with a window open some.

The guy I get mine with used to use Masters, but found this better. It does latigo pretty well. I do a lot of doubled and stitched latigo reins and it works well. I can still peel it apart to insert a popper, but it won't come apart while sewing like Barge did if you weren't paying attention.

Bruce,

What is the name of the glue that you are using from Renia? Is it the Master Maxbond or the Master Multi-purpose?

thanks,

Mike

Edited July 28, 2011 by mworthan

[bruce johnson]

Mike, It is the Multi-Purpose (green can) I think. I should be home tonight and if it is any different, I'll repost.

[mworthan]

Mike, It is the Multi-Purpose (green can) I think. I should be home tonight and if it is any different, I'll repost.

Thanks. I'll try to find a supplier local and give it a try.

[AndyKnight]

I use contact cement from the building supply. both the water based as well as the solvent base. The water base will stick the waxy or oiled latigos/chap leathers. the down side is that it takes longer to dry.

I havn't used barge since my boot repairing days ...about 15 years.

[mworthan]

I use contact cement from the building supply. both the water based as well as the solvent base. The water base will stick the waxy or oiled latigos/chap leathers. the down side is that it takes longer to dry.

I havn't used barge since my boot repairing days ...about 15 years.

Andy,

Thanks for the reply. By local building supply, i am asuming that the brand is probably something along the line of Weldwood? I am always a little suspect of the "true"differences in glues as i was about epoxies until I learned that most of them are derivitives of the same Shell product. With that being said, have you seen much difference in performance compared to traditional shoe type glues? I imagine not or you wouldn't use it. Also, any performance differences in water based vs. solvent based? I'm always interested in saving what few brain cells I have left. Switched over to water bourne wood finishes years ago building casework. Can you reveal your brand?

Thanks,

Mike in Rome

[mworthan]

I use contact cement from the building supply. both the water based as well as the solvent base. The water base will stick the waxy or oiled latigos/chap leathers. the down side is that it takes longer to dry.

I havn't used barge since my boot repairing days ...about 15 years.

Andy,

Thanks for the reply. By local building supply, i am asuming that the brand is probably something along the line of Weldwood? I am always a little suspect of the "true"differences in glues as i was about epoxies until I learned that most of them are derivitives of the same Shell product. With that being said, have you seen much difference in performance compared to traditional shoe type glues? I imagine not or you wouldn't use it. Also, any performance differences in water based vs. solvent based? I'm always interested in saving what few brain cells I have left. Switched over to water bourne wood finishes years ago building casework. Can you reveal your brand?

Thanks,

Mike in Rome

[AndyKnight]

I have used mahy differrent brands and the solvent based ones have all worked quite well. They are all flexible . Weldwood and Lepages as well have worked as well as some store branded. With the water based glues i prefer the white ones as the blue or green tend to show up if there is any extra glue.getting where you don't want it. If you are not sure just buy a quart container first. OWith some glues I will double coat to get a good bond.

Andy,

Thanks for the reply. By local building supply, i am asuming that the brand is probably something along the line of Weldwood? I am always a little suspect of the "true"differences in glues as i was about epoxies until I learned that most of them are derivitives of the same Shell product. With that being said, have you seen much difference in performance compared to traditional shoe type glues? I imagine not or you wouldn't use it. Also, any performance differences in water based vs. solvent based? I'm always interested in saving what few brain cells I have left. Switched over to water bourne wood finishes years ago building casework. Can you reveal your brand?

Thanks,

Mike in Rome

[mworthan]

Thanks Andy. I'll try it next go around.

Mike