Members woodandsteel Posted July 4, 2011 Members Report Posted July 4, 2011 (edited) It's been a while since I've posted anything, and my results have been steadily improving, thanks to all that I've learned here. Here are four IWB holsters I made recently. Two are for a Government length 1911. One of them has lizard skin trim. The light brown one turned out splotchy for some reason, due to the boning/molding process. I used a vacuum bag to do the initial forming, pressing with my fingers through the bag, and then with bone folder for details. I haven't had that problem before or since. The other two holsters are an adjustable IWB design that I made for a Colt Defender and a Smith & Wesson M&P40. The snap loops are screwed into T-nuts, which can be moved to change the cant and ride height. I used 7/8oz leather from RJF leather, Fiebings Oil dye, saddle stitched, finished with Resolene and then a coat of Sno-Seal. I mostly used Hidepounder's edge burnishing method, but I'm getting inconsistent results, with the dye rubbing off during the final burnishing. On the last holster I dyed the edges after sanding and burnishing, then used glycerin soap, saddle soap, and paraffin wax. On the last holster, I also forgot the coat of neatsfoot oil after molding and before using the resolene, so it ended up a bit splotchy. I was in a rush...lesson learned! Edited July 4, 2011 by woodandsteel Quote
Members Big O Posted July 4, 2011 Members Report Posted July 4, 2011 I hope that some day, if I eat my veggies and say my prayers, I'll make holsters that look as good as those........ Quote
Members woodandsteel Posted July 4, 2011 Author Members Report Posted July 4, 2011 Thanks, Big O! Quote
Members Rhide Posted July 5, 2011 Members Report Posted July 5, 2011 Excellent! They look like they'd be very comfortable too. Quote
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