snaallen Report post Posted January 15, 2008 Hello, I am trying to learn to have my work look more professional. One area I have a difficult time with is finishing the edges. Does any one have any tips or know where to find good info on what tools are best and what process to get a nice, smooth, great looking edge? Since I am asking, I would also like to find info on how to figure my stitching on my machine so that I end on even stitches on corners, etc and don't have half stitches or bigger stitches in my corners. Is there a formula or a book or tip on this? I thank you in advance to anyone that can help me. I have tried to do this on my own, but not getting the look I want. Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gary Report post Posted January 15, 2008 Snaallen, There have been quite a few posts on this over the past months. Perhaps someone with more computer savvy than me can direct you. For me, depending on the type and thickness of leather, once I've rounded the edges with an edger and the whole thing's complete, I rough up the fibres using sandpaper for thinner leather or broken glass for thicker edges (if the edges aren't rough enough already). Then I use a mix of dye, water and old-style paper glue (which contains gum tragacanth) to stain the edge and then polish, vigourously, with some old denim. Straps are easiest to polish up as you can pull them through a hand wrapped in denim. Small edges or less stiff leather can be placed on a board with the edge slightly overhanging and rubbed vigorously with denim. Corners and curves are not the easiest to do. I also sometimes use watered-down PVA glue as a final coat before a final polish. But, horses for courses. Some here have electric powered edgers (lucky people) but I find polishing by hand means I can turn the heating down in the workshop. Gary Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
snaallen Report post Posted January 17, 2008 (edited) Gary, Thank you for responding. I am new to here, so I haven't seen or found any posts on this subject. I will have to look around somemore. Thank you for your process of edge finishing. I will have to try that on the next project. I guess I should have put the question on figuring stitches on a seperate post. Maybe someone will answer that one yet! Thanks again, I appreciate your time and experience. Edited January 17, 2008 by snaallen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Denise Report post Posted January 17, 2008 snallen, There are lots more old posts from the last year and a half still buried under the remains of the crash of '08. They are intact, but the people at computer central (you know, the ones that feed the squirrels that run on the wheels that keep the whole internet going) aren't used to the amount of manual labour it is taking to dig them out from under the rubble. Sounds like it will be a few more days till things are up and running, but at least Johanna and Kate marked the spot of the vault for us and held firm with things crashing all round them so we know where they all are. Its just a question of getting to them now. Once they are back up - you won't leave your computer for days! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jordan Report post Posted January 18, 2008 Ain't that the truth, probably choke off the web with everyone sitting at this site reading. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gunfighter48 Report post Posted January 18, 2008 I used to bevel then finish with Edge Kote but I've been doing something different lately. I bevel, rub bees wax on the edge, use a heat gun to melt the bees wax into the leather, reapply more bees wax, then use a deer horn to rub the snot out of the edge. It makes a really nice edge. But heating the bees wax till it melts into the leather WILL darken the leather. On the belts I make that is the effect that I want but for other projects I'll either use Edge Kote or bees wax with no heat and just burnish with the deer horn. John Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gtwister09 Report post Posted January 18, 2008 Speaking of burnishers... Here's one that we made recently out of cocobolo. It has a metal shaft so that it doesn't get chewed up when chucked in the drill press. It certainly helps speed things up. The tip also works great for burnishing punched holes. Regards, Ben Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOOMSTICKHolsters Report post Posted January 19, 2008 Nice job, Ben! 'You gonna make any more of those for sale? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
YRsaddles Report post Posted January 19, 2008 To get a really good edge..I will run an edger over both sides...Ron's edgers are the best...expensive but worth it.. I like the way you can pretty much do anything and the tool doesn't leave "tracks" on your work. next I will rub leather balm over the edge and burnish it up real good..then apply edge kote..also I've found that thick 1/2 inch felt bent in half and stuck between a clothes pin makes the best applicator for applying the edge kote..just make sure you "break it in" by running it across a DRY edge first the create a groove. then when it is dipped in the dye it won't get in places it shouldn't.. Dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gtwister09 Report post Posted January 19, 2008 Nice job, Ben!'You gonna make any more of those for sale? Thank you. Sorry. I only made this as a replacement for the one that I sent to my Dad. There isn't enough time for all my projects much less making these for sale especially with work lately. Regards, Ben Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gtwister09 Report post Posted January 19, 2008 Ron's edgers are the best...expensive but worth it.. I like the way you can pretty much do anything and the tool doesn't leave "tracks" on your work. Dave Dave, I assume that you are talking about his round cut edgers and not the Montana ones. Correct? Regards, Ben Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robert Report post Posted January 19, 2008 Snaallen... as you see, there are as many ways to finish edges as there are leathercrafters probably.... i have tried most of these methods and some others but still am not as good at is as i would like. Recently, I've gone back the way Al Stohlman taught us... water and a hand slicker. I've learned that you don't want to get it really wet and then start burnishing.... it needs to sit a bit (like you are caseing the edge). I have a wooden slicker and use an antler for hard to get places. That is for non-died edges - die wont take once you slick the edge. I am ok at straight edges, but those curves and hard to get to places are boogers! Keep expirimenting. And when you find something that works really well, tell the rest of us! On the question of your stitches - if you are stitching at 6-8 stiches per inch, probably the easiest way would be to stop stitching with an inch or so to go, then evaluate, based on the space remaining and the stitch size, whether the remaining stitches should be a hair over or under the "standard" stitch length to work out even. That way, you are making your adjustment over 6-8 stitches and not all at once. You could do this with a ruler or just eye-ball it. Hope this helps. robert Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
YRsaddles Report post Posted January 19, 2008 Dave,I assume that you are talking about his round cut edgers and not the Montana ones. Correct? Regards, Ben Yes the round cut edgers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pete Report post Posted January 19, 2008 Snaallen... as you see, there are as many ways to finish edges as there are leathercrafters probably.... i have tried most of these methods and some others but still am not as good at is as i would like. Recently, I've gone back the way Al Stohlman taught us... water and a hand slicker. I've learned that you don't want to get it really wet and then start burnishing.... it needs to sit a bit (like you are caseing the edge). I have a wooden slicker and use an antler for hard to get places. That is for non-died edges - die wont take once you slick the edge. I am ok at straight edges, but those curves and hard to get to places are boogers! Keep expirimenting. And when you find something that works really well, tell the rest of us! On the question of your stitches - if you are stitching at 6-8 stiches per inch, probably the easiest way would be to stop stitching with an inch or so to go, then evaluate, based on the space remaining and the stitch size, whether the remaining stitches should be a hair over or under the "standard" stitch length to work out even. That way, you are making your adjustment over 6-8 stitches and not all at once. You could do this with a ruler or just eye-ball it. Hope this helps. robert When I need to do curves or round edges I just hold the canvas in my palm and rub the project against it.Great for corners too pete Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
snaallen Report post Posted January 21, 2008 Thank you everyone. It look slike a have a few news things to try and to find the right way for me. It looks like it is time to experiment. I appreciate all the suggestions and answers to my questions. THANKS! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
esantoro Report post Posted March 2, 2008 To get a really good edge..I will run an edger over both sides...Ron's edgers are the best...expensive but worth it.. I like the way you can pretty much do anything and the tool doesn't leave "tracks" on your work. next I will rub leather balm over the edge and burnish it up real good..then apply edge kote..also I've found that thick 1/2 inch felt bent in half and stuck between a clothes pin makes the best applicator for applying the edge kote..just make sure you "break it in" by running it across a DRY edge first the create a groove. then when it is dipped in the dye it won't get in places it shouldn't..Dave Hi Dave, Where do you get this .5" felt? I was thinking that the felt should be no wider than the width of the edge you're dying, but from your post that doesn't seem to be the case. ed Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
