gtwister09 Posted January 19, 2008 Report Posted January 19, 2008 Ron's edgers are the best...expensive but worth it.. I like the way you can pretty much do anything and the tool doesn't leave "tracks" on your work. Dave Dave, I assume that you are talking about his round cut edgers and not the Montana ones. Correct? Regards, Ben Quote
Members robert Posted January 19, 2008 Members Report Posted January 19, 2008 Snaallen... as you see, there are as many ways to finish edges as there are leathercrafters probably.... i have tried most of these methods and some others but still am not as good at is as i would like. Recently, I've gone back the way Al Stohlman taught us... water and a hand slicker. I've learned that you don't want to get it really wet and then start burnishing.... it needs to sit a bit (like you are caseing the edge). I have a wooden slicker and use an antler for hard to get places. That is for non-died edges - die wont take once you slick the edge. I am ok at straight edges, but those curves and hard to get to places are boogers! Keep expirimenting. And when you find something that works really well, tell the rest of us! On the question of your stitches - if you are stitching at 6-8 stiches per inch, probably the easiest way would be to stop stitching with an inch or so to go, then evaluate, based on the space remaining and the stitch size, whether the remaining stitches should be a hair over or under the "standard" stitch length to work out even. That way, you are making your adjustment over 6-8 stitches and not all at once. You could do this with a ruler or just eye-ball it. Hope this helps. robert Quote
Members YRsaddles Posted January 19, 2008 Members Report Posted January 19, 2008 Dave,I assume that you are talking about his round cut edgers and not the Montana ones. Correct? Regards, Ben Yes the round cut edgers Quote
Ambassador pete Posted January 19, 2008 Ambassador Report Posted January 19, 2008 Snaallen... as you see, there are as many ways to finish edges as there are leathercrafters probably.... i have tried most of these methods and some others but still am not as good at is as i would like. Recently, I've gone back the way Al Stohlman taught us... water and a hand slicker. I've learned that you don't want to get it really wet and then start burnishing.... it needs to sit a bit (like you are caseing the edge). I have a wooden slicker and use an antler for hard to get places. That is for non-died edges - die wont take once you slick the edge. I am ok at straight edges, but those curves and hard to get to places are boogers! Keep expirimenting. And when you find something that works really well, tell the rest of us! On the question of your stitches - if you are stitching at 6-8 stiches per inch, probably the easiest way would be to stop stitching with an inch or so to go, then evaluate, based on the space remaining and the stitch size, whether the remaining stitches should be a hair over or under the "standard" stitch length to work out even. That way, you are making your adjustment over 6-8 stitches and not all at once. You could do this with a ruler or just eye-ball it. Hope this helps. robert When I need to do curves or round edges I just hold the canvas in my palm and rub the project against it.Great for corners too pete Quote
Members snaallen Posted January 21, 2008 Author Members Report Posted January 21, 2008 Thank you everyone. It look slike a have a few news things to try and to find the right way for me. It looks like it is time to experiment. I appreciate all the suggestions and answers to my questions. THANKS! Quote
esantoro Posted March 2, 2008 Report Posted March 2, 2008 To get a really good edge..I will run an edger over both sides...Ron's edgers are the best...expensive but worth it.. I like the way you can pretty much do anything and the tool doesn't leave "tracks" on your work. next I will rub leather balm over the edge and burnish it up real good..then apply edge kote..also I've found that thick 1/2 inch felt bent in half and stuck between a clothes pin makes the best applicator for applying the edge kote..just make sure you "break it in" by running it across a DRY edge first the create a groove. then when it is dipped in the dye it won't get in places it shouldn't..Dave Hi Dave, Where do you get this .5" felt? I was thinking that the felt should be no wider than the width of the edge you're dying, but from your post that doesn't seem to be the case. ed Quote http://www.waldenbags.com http://www.waldenbags.etsy.com
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