Attaching Exotic Skin To Project

[GhostRed7]

I'm slightly experienced in tooling and doing things like armors, etc...but about to dive into a new and unfamiliar territory.....a gun holster w/ stingray on it. I haven't quite figure out exactly where I'm going to place the skin. My current design yields very little room on the "flaps" (the part not being formed to the firearm and holds the belt loops)....but I'm thinking I may just put it on there...otherwise, cover the entire thing (TBD).

What type of adhesive(s) should I use?

Place on before moulding or after?

Stick through the ray or stitch then glue/stick?

Any other pointers would be awesome.

Thx in advance.

(PS: I'm still scouring the threads, but being new here, getting kinna lost)

Edited July 14, 2011 by GhostRed7

[electrathon]

What type of adhesive(s) should I use?

I would use Barge

Place on before moulding or after?

Mold, then glue

Stick through the ray or stitch then glue/stick?

Glue it down so it does not shift, then sew it togeather.

Aaron

[katsass]

Well, I use Weldwood contact cement. ....glue the inlay to the surround and then stitch in place.

I wet form almost as a final act.....wet form (mold), dry ..apply oil then a finish. All that a fter stitching in place.

This is how my stuff comes out. Mike PS, you might want to make use of a Dremel tool with a grinding stone on it to remove the little calcium nubbins before you try to glue and stitch it down.

Edited July 15, 2011 by katsass

[GhostRed7]

Thx for the input all.

Same process if you're not going to inlay? I'm not sure I'll be able to inlay due to lack of skill/tools. I **MAY** simply b/c the hide I got was a little smaller (7.5-8oz), but not sure how to approach that.

[eyeman]

Thx for the input all.

Same process if you're not going to inlay? I'm not sure I'll be able to inlay due to lack of skill/tools. I **MAY** simply b/c the hide I got was a little smaller (7.5-8oz), but not sure how to approach that.

GhostRed7, you might find that an inlay might be easier that a surface apprication, that is if you plan on stitching afterwards. Stiching, stingray and I do not get along very well. The calcium bead will cause the stitching to stagger and look terrible. I have not seen any good stitching on stingray, although some may be capable of making it look good. I don't sell product, so I only have to please myself, but sometimes that can be even more difficult. I'll see if I can post a picture of the last paddle holster I made for my 1911, which was done by adhesive only with no stitching. As a word of caution, be careful that no portion of the beads can come in contact with the weapon, for the sharp edges of cut beads will definately scar the weapon.

[GhostRed7]

This is an older rough sketch of my idea (very basic...the 'tic' marks are just how i trace paper onto paper):

I understand the inlay process, just mentally can't put the molding/inlay/top piece into a process in my mind and still have a solid fit for the gun, which IMO is the MOST important thing.

So, procedurely it'd be as follows??

1. Cut front/back
2. Cut extra "front" to be on top of the inlay
3. Glue ray to back of inlay
4. Glue inlay on top of other front (join the rest accordingly)
5. Groove, mark, sew as usual

I still can't get my brain wrapped around molding THEN stitching after doing the inlay overlay. Do I pre-drill/punch all the holes?

Edited July 15, 2011 by GhostRed7

[Sixer]

I still can't get my brain wrapped around molding THEN stitching after doing the inlay overlay. Do I pre-drill/punch all the holes?

My advice... stitch it all up before any wet molding. Not sure how doing it any other way would work.

Here is a pic of a simple inlay I did a while back that might help a little...

[GhostRed7]

Oooh....i like that.

My head is explodin here. With the stingray...if I try to form after it's all assembled (like "normal"), how does that work with the boning details? More on the back-side?