Help Creating First Pancake Holster Pattern

[mlapaglia]

The example looks like carp because my AutoCad died and I had to fake it with a drawing and a scanner instead of the normal way I draw stuff, on the computer. Anyway, this is my first try at a pancake holster pattern. Id like any comments, questions, suggestions etc, on how to make it better. The dashed lines are the current stich lines. They need to be fixed. I have a single shoulder, 6-7oz, coming in this week for it and I have a full side of 3-4 oz if I need it.

Please feel free to make any suggestions. This is going to be for an HK USP-9. I have an Airsoft copy to mold with.

Thanks.

Michael

Edited July 31, 2011 by mlapaglia

[TwinOaks]

For you stitch lines around the gun, figure 1/2 the thickness of the gun + the thickness of the leather = distance from the gun for the stitch line. After that, it's molding and stretching the leather. Try to keep the the stitch lines a consistent distance from the outline of the gun. Other than that, the pattern looks fine...maybe move the rear belt slot out a little more to help pull the holster closer, or lose a bit of the 'wing' that's just hanging out in the back.

[mlapaglia]

Thanks Mike, From your comments I decided to move the rear slot out to help it hold closer.

Ill hold off and see if anyone else has some commens before I clean it up and make a new template. The leather wont be here for a few days anyway.

Any opinions on lining it? Ive got so Pig skin lining but Im not sure how well it would stretch during the molding?

[particle]

Looks pretty good. I'd suggest pulling the top of the holster away from the grip area - you want to make sure you can wrap your fingers around the pistol grip without catching on the leather. Regarding your stitch line, you want to offset it at least 1/2 the thickness of your firearm, plus maybe another 1/16" to 1/8". This helps allow for the thickness of the leather, as well as a molded sight channel. Lastly, I'd suggest you use a bad section of your hide to try out your pattern for the first time - especially if you plan on lining it - no sense in wasting time and "money" on a pattern that isn't quite right, and you'll learn a lot about your pattern the first time you build a holster from it.

[mlapaglia]

Ok, this is pretty close to the final unless someone has more suggestions. I set the stich line per TwinOak's and particle's suggestions.

With the pattern on cardboard the distance between the grip and the top of the holster seems ok. When I make it the first time with scrap I will be able to see if it is enough or needs to be moved.

Thanks for the help. Anyone else got any suggestions before I cut the scrap leather and try it?

[Glock21]

Being totally new to holster making and pretty new at leather work, I have a question. What is the reason for angling the belt slots away from each other? Why not have them straight?

[mlapaglia]

Being totally new to holster making and pretty new at leather work, I have a question. What is the reason for angling the belt slots away from each other? Why not have them straight?

In my case, no reason other than style. Something to make it a little different than the others. I abandoned it in the final version.

Thanks for asking.

Michael

[glennaycock]

Theoretically, the angle on the belt loops (downward to the inside) would create a conic section (tighter loop on the bottom), which would force the muzzle inward. However, since a 1.5-2" leather belt is flexible and doesn't apply that much force, the effect is probably negligible.

Sorry, reading math books today