Farrier Chaps

[Hidemechanic]

Any one had good luck using something besides pearl split(mule hide) for shoeing chaps?

I know some of you were talking about using elktan for horn wraps, just curious if something else would work as well for farrier chaps. Thanks, GH

[Leerwerker]

The deertan cowhide from Tandy - seen it proven.

It is tough, but it has give. Seen a farrier kicked five yards away and thought the apron would be ripped for sure. just slightly marked. He swears by that apron ...

[bruce johnson]

GH,

At least for me, the pearl apron splits just are the better choice. I have had guys try the cordura ones, and had nails stick through the weave and pin a guy to the hoof. I have had guys try the thinner chap leather ones with mulehide knee patches and had nails stick through the softer leathers. These same guys say they haven't had a nail penetrate mulehide. I am sure someone has, but it just seems the mulehide has stood the test of usage a little more. Any of the grained leathers are going to wear away with a rasp, and the softer ones are maybe going to open up there. The grained leathers get rough and look worse, and the roughout mulehide wears smooth and looks better. What's up with that?!

The biggest complaint is that some mulehide is pretty stiff and some isn't. The stiffer stuff is a pain to deal with sticking out in front of your knee until it breaks in and drapes. I buy my mulehide from Siegels. I use the lighter weight for the body, and ask for them to pick something more to the soft side. I use the heavier weight for the leg patches. Mine are actually a stripe that cross the entire thigh rather than a patch inside and just over the knee. The stiffer and wider patch seems to give them some relief for the guys who don't use a hoof stand, and finish off on their knee or crawl under the back and finish the outside of the hoof on their thigh. I can then make the magnet covers and knife pockets from the softer light weight trimmings.

I also like the larger scraps of the softer stuff for lining strainer plates. It lasts way longer than what some companies stick under there. The long pieces I cut horn wraps from, and the heavier ones I can split down to wrap easier. Finally mulehide is pretty cost effective compared to some of the other leathers.

[greg gomersall]

Caledon Sales in Calgary Alberta sells a brown apron split that is the toughest stuff I have ever used. Way tougher than mulehide. I have sent sample pieces of this stuff to several leather suppliers here in the US but NONE of them seem interested in carrying it. It is tanned here but the tannery needs a 10,000 square foot order to make it. Call Ken at 403 252 0232 and he will ship it to you. I also use it to make some of the toughest garment and rigging bags you have ever seen. Greg

[steve mason]

I agree with Greg, the brown apron split that Caledon has would be the best stuff for shoeing apron.

http://www.caledonleather.ca/index.html check their website, they have an 800 #

here is a bag made out of it.

[Hidemechanic]

Bruce, you and I seem to think a lot a like on a lot of things. I just thought I'd see what others had to say. I had the the same thoughts about the softer leathers handling rasps and nails. I hadn't even thought of cordura for the reason you mentioned. I have a cordura bib style apron I use for slaughtering that works well in that application but I wouldn't care to use it around nails and rasps and such.

Greg and Steve, what is the cost after shipping stuff across the border to us?

I might like to try the brown mh if it's not to costly to ship.

Thanks for the replies. GH

[Elton Joorisity]

I shipped 6 bucking horse flanks from here to Great Falls for $45 and they probably weighed 25-35 lbs. I live 4 or so hours north of Calgary if that gives you an idea.

[bruce johnson]

Steve and Greg,

Thanks for more info on the brown apron split. I need to try some, it sure looks better than the grey-blue of the pearl splits.

[TomE]

On 6/4/2008 at 11:42 PM, bruce johnson said:

GH,

At least for me, the pearl apron splits just are the better choice. I have had guys try the cordura ones, and had nails stick through the weave and pin a guy to the hoof. I have had guys try the thinner chap leather ones with mulehide knee patches and had nails stick through the softer leathers. These same guys say they haven't had a nail penetrate mulehide. I am sure someone has, but it just seems the mulehide has stood the test of usage a little more. Any of the grained leathers are going to wear away with a rasp, and the softer ones are maybe going to open up there. The grained leathers get rough and look worse, and the roughout mulehide wears smooth and looks better. What's up with that?!

The biggest complaint is that some mulehide is pretty stiff and some isn't. The stiffer stuff is a pain to deal with sticking out in front of your knee until it breaks in and drapes. I buy my mulehide from Siegels. I use the lighter weight for the body, and ask for them to pick something more to the soft side. I use the heavier weight for the leg patches. Mine are actually a stripe that cross the entire thigh rather than a patch inside and just over the knee. The stiffer and wider patch seems to give them some relief for the guys who don't use a hoof stand, and finish off on their knee or crawl under the back and finish the outside of the hoof on their thigh. I can then make the magnet covers and knife pockets from the softer light weight trimmings.

I also like the larger scraps of the softer stuff for lining strainer plates. It lasts way longer than what some companies stick under there. The long pieces I cut horn wraps from, and the heavier ones I can split down to wrap easier. Finally mulehide is pretty cost effective compared to some of the other leathers.

I am making a farrier apron and ordered a double bend of pearl gray apron split (7/8 oz) from Beiler's.  Was surprised how soft the leather is compared to the apron I am using as a pattern, and my own trimming apron.  @bruce johnson's comment about preferring a soft apron split caught my notice, and I am wondering if anyone has experience with Beiler's apron splits for a shoeing apron or other heavy use.  I was looking at Hide House as a second choice.  They offer firm and soft versions of pearl splits in a a 6/7 oz weight that is similar to what I am used to.  Of course, I will ask my farrier friend what he would prefer for this apron.  Appreciate any suggestions or your experience with either supplier's apron splits.  

[jcuk]

Don't know if this is of any use to you, here are some links to what leather Abbey has for farrier chaps maybe look for something similar your side of the pond. But do bear in mind these leathers are for proper working farrier chaps nothing fancy, because believe me i have seen some farriers trying to make fashion statement with their chaps and you soon see they don't stand the test of time.  

https://www.abbeyengland.com/farriers-chap-butts-2mm-oily-beige-e1f271

https://www.abbeyengland.com/farriers-chap-butts-2mm-oily-black-e1f272

https://www.abbeyengland.com/farriers-chap-butts-2mm-oily-olive-e1f270

 

Hope this helps

JCUK

9 hours ago, TomE said:

I am making a farrier apron and ordered a double bend of pearl gray apron split (7/8 oz) from Beiler's.  Was surprised how soft the leather is compared to the apron I am using as a pattern, and my own trimming apron.  @bruce johnson's comment about preferring a soft apron split caught my notice, and I am wondering if anyone has experience with Beiler's apron splits for a shoeing apron or other heavy use.  I was looking at Hide House as a second choice.  They offer firm and soft versions of pearl splits in a a 6/7 oz weight that is similar to what I am used to.  Of course, I will ask my farrier friend what he would prefer for this apron.  Appreciate any suggestions or your experience with either supplier's apron splits.  

 

[TomE]

Thanks, @jcuk.  From the pictures the temper looks similar to the Beiler's apron split that I purchased.  Softer than the apron I am using for a pattern.  The apron is 6/7 oz (~2.5 mm) and the Beiler's apron split is 7/8 oz (3 mm).  Plenty heavy IMO but it will lay differently when working under the horse.  The client/friend will stop by tomorrow to check out the leather for his apron.  I might order the firm pearl split from Hide House and give him a choice.  He's highly skilled and kind enough to shoe a couple of horses for us (I trim the others) so I want to keep him happy.  I might make mayself an apron with the other split.

[jcuk]

No worries, never made any farrier chaps but have repaired and patched a few, some i have done knowing the leather i patched them up with is better than what they were made from.