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jcuk

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About jcuk

  • Rank
    Leatherworker

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  • Location
    London
  • Interests
    Horse racing

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Horse racing
  • Interested in learning about
    Everything with leather - racing and western tack
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  1. He is a couple of links maybe of interest, Short i know. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IcR6LfjaFCs Hope this helps JCUK
  2. Here a link to them, not cheap though but also they appear on eBay every now and again. https://www.georgebarnsleyandsons.co.uk/product-page/bulldog-pincers Hope this helps JCUK
  3. Sorry i don't get on here much now, it can gouge but there is no drag also and once you know your leather you working with you will know how to minimise cutting to deep into it as i said once you have worn one side out just turn over. Also it does depend on you use the Round knife i have plenty of different ways of using one in my time and all of them have not been in the safest and best way i have to say. Hope this helps JCUK
  4. I use MDF have done ever since i started many moons ago its what we used when i did my training and see no reason to change when it becomes worn and cut up turn it over. And its cheap maybe even free if your supplier has odd cut offs laying around. Hope this helps JCUK
  5. jcuk

    Edge Beveler

    Thats a Hollow edge shave i use them a lot i have old Dixons but did not have size One and two so got them from Abbey i believe they are made by a former employee of Dixons they work as well as my old Dixons, here are a couple of links if you are interested. https://www.abbeyengland.com/economy-hollow-edge-shave-fs072 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232937597891?hash=item363c29abc3:g:U2UAAOSwnRZbpopW I think these too are made by a former Dixon employee. The listing of George Barnsley site of what a Hollow edge shave is seems to be confused with a hollow skirt shave/french edger and one is definitely not a hollow edge shave. correct me if i am wrong. Is it just me but using a steel hammer on leather punches is all wrong a mushroomed leather punch is a misused leather punch i have never ever felt the need to use a steel hammer on my any of my leather punches. Hope this helps JCUK
  6. This is what i use and find it very strong and durable for the racing saddles i repair. https://www.abbeyengland.com/girth-straps-rawhide-e122 https://www.abbeyengland.com/buffalo-girth-straps-e1e29 Many use this also very string but does have a tendency to stretch but does hold its over all strength also a good leather for stirrup leathers in the racing industry. Hope this helps JCUK
  7. Yes they are chrome tanned Abbey used to sell Girth strap butts like that many moons ago here is a couple of links to what they sell these days. https://www.abbeyengland.com/chrome-butt-e1g39c A bit more refined these days. https://www.abbeyengland.com/chrome-cut-strips-1-7-25mm-e1g29a And here's what you are looking at on the old saddle probably 1mm to light for my liking, but it is very strong and durable leather many old turn out rugs used to have their metal fitting stitched on using this type of leather. Hope this helps JCUK
  8. jcuk

    Stitching

    He is where i sit on this i would rather have the ability to stitch with a Awl then not have it because for sure if you can stitch with Awl you will be able to stitch with stitching chisels i am not saying its wrong not learning to use a Awl just saying it a good skill set to have. As to anyone who thinks its quicker to using stitching chisels i think not in a lot of cases it depends of who is doing the stitching, most tutorials on how to stitch with a Awl are slowed down to a pace where they can explain the process i bet you would been surprised how quick some can stitch and get good results, as for stitching three layers of 9/10 oz (10mm +) i very much doubt the chisels will go through three layers as someone said maybe KS Blades might do it i have looked at their chisels the blade is only 10mm in length and even if they can do it i wonder how many times you will have to strike the chisel to go all the way through and then having to pull it back out pretty time consuming me thinks, also i have seen they offer replacement blades and $5 a pop and you are responsible for round shipping cost so they must break, in some 25+ years i have never broke pricking iron, the thing i find really ironic they offer a rather expensive uncomfortable looking Awl on their sight do they know something we don't know That all being said yes i was lucky enough to been taught how to stitch with a Awl and would not have it any other way and one other thing when you are pricking your work as you go with the Awl you get a feel for the leather you are working with which you will not get with pre punched holes and i would not advise anyone who makes and repairs tack not to use chisels. Hope this helps JCUK
  9. My thoughts exactly that will wear well.
  10. This is what they use to punch the stitch marks, before i had one i use an old billet for a template it is probably a fore runner for a stitching chisel as opposed to a pricking iron. https://www.abbeyengland.com/economy-strap-pricker-13-3-8-7-35mm-g--s--pricker Hope this helps JCUK
  11. The reason why they use this stitch is on the backside of your stitch you gather up double amount of webbing with one stitch, he is a link but i would not recommend using your stitching awl as it may tear and cut (slice) into the webbing use a a scratch awl or another needle of the same size on your thread. Hope this helps JCUK
  12. Thats how's girth billets are stitched to the saddle webbing it does produce a longer longer stitch on the backside of your work ie the webbing.
  13. Just remember those few hairs may carry the Ringworm which you don't want into your workshop maybe onto your bench, tools. and your clothing, other pets as well. Some people do pay stupid money for rugs which could be ripped and ruined the first time their horse has it on i have seen this happen someone i know paid £600+ for a new rug for their horse only for it to ripped apart the first time the horse had it on overnight and no amount of good repairs would make it worth while to repair it. Hope this helps JCUK
  14. This is what i use for my hollow edge shaves and only use the compound that came with it. after that i fold a piece of soft hide flesh side up on the edge of my bench or cutting board and give it a quick polish, for the top i also run it through a piece of heavy waxed thread but not every time i use them. Every time i use a cutting tool i give them a quick strop before and after use just a few seconds i find i don't have to sharpen my cutting tools to often i have Round that i have owned for six + years never sharpened it once in that time just a strop before and after, and yes it will depend on the quality of the steel on your tools. Hope this helps JCUK
  15. I bet there are some here still repairing them without being washed, i did it many moons ago have to say not one of my favourite things i have ever done, but repairing rugs is not something i like doing anyway. Would you prefer them being washed and cleaned first ?. Its a big health and safety thing here and for me its not a health and safety thing gone mad, i have seen some pretty minging rugs in my time. JCUK
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