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jcuk

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About jcuk

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  • Location
    London
  • Interests
    Horse racing

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Horse racing
  • Interested in learning about
    Everything with leather - racing and western tack
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  1. Hi before you use any kind of oil based product use a soft brush to remove any dust and dirt from the saddle secondly then clean it gently with saddle soap after it has dried off, then apply Neats foot oil heat it up before you apply it (tepid) luke warm it helps penetrate the fibre better also with remember with NFO a little goes a long way you don't want to saturate the leather which will weaken already damaged parts of the the saddle. And not sure if you are going to do anything to the seat but if it just for a display and conversation piece i would leave it as it is, unless you know of someone who can do a sympathetic restoration. And yes its a nice piece of history. Hope this helps JCUK
  2. I know not US based but as no one has responded thought i would give you some links - both are good companies to work with and ship worldwide. https://www.metropolitanleather.com/Buy-Leather/Buy-Vegetable-Tanned-Leather/Saddle-Pigskin-Pitsford https://www.abbeyengland.com/pigskin-greased-7699.html https://www.abbeyengland.com/pigskin-dry-7698.html Hope this helps JCUK
  3. Yes that one on Ebay UK has been there around 2 years at least.
  4. jcuk

    Belt sizing

    Whenever i get a request for belt that's going to be a gift and get i think their waist size 28'' which happened just before Christmas, My rule of thumb is i take the one waist/belt size i know to be right my own 30'' so then i deduct or add inches either way seems to work out ok cant honestly say they all hit the centre hole but as long as long as you don't hit the first two holes or last hole straight away i find they should and most likely are happy enough with what they get i mean how many of us before we got into leather work knew about the centre hole thing and how many of us were given belts that were to large only to put more holes in them our selves before we got into leather work. The other rule of thumb to my belts is the centre of the buckle turn and first hole are both 3'' from each end. Hope this helps JCUK
  5. No you are way wrong here, it is a well known fact this side of the pond he has been happily working in a Fish and Chip shop in Rochdale for the past 40 odd years https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QccPUSTMriM&list=RDQccPUSTMriM&start_radio=1
  6. Is the customer trying to hide the the fact that he has money in his wallet, so he does not have to get the next round in. Nice work by the way. JCUK
  7. Fantastic workmanship JCUK
  8. Would not go down the copper rivet route, can be a pain in the rear end to remove at times. Here is a site showing the Chicago screw method and more methods such as using a Concho which i believe is the same as a Chicago screw method, someone on here will correct me here if i am wrong- on that i am sure, another way is to tie it which is also shown not quite sure how this method is achieved but looks pretty straight forward but again hopefully some of the western style tack makers on here can steer you right on that. https://western-saddler.co.uk/collections/headstalls Hope this helps JCUK P.S. Thinking on i did repair one many moons cant remember how it was tied may have a play in my workshop tomorrow
  9. Not sure if these maybe of use https://www.amazon.co.uk/Toolzone-4pc-Offset-Screwdriver-Set/dp/B002NHAOA4 Hope this helps JCUK
  10. Can i ask what style of Bridle is it English or Western, if English why do you want to use this method to attach the bit to the cheek pieces. I have only ever used Chicago screws on American style racing tack and that was on the bit end of the reins which had been re-enforced with a metal insert for safety just in case the Chicago screws failed which they had that's why i had to replace (have to say bridles were not made by me) just done the repair yes i used thread lock, did not come back for for same repair. They don't protrude too much so highly unlikely to chafe your horses cheek if you are wanting a easy method to change the bit maybe better to have a buckle billet if English style tack. On setting saddlers copper rivets once you have snipped the excess amount off when using the doming part of the rivet setter as you strike it keep turning it gives a better finish, you don't have to but after i have finish with the setter i give one tap on the rivet. Hope this helps JCUK
  11. So no place for my Bic Biro then sorry could not resist. And that's nice work too like that, and i do like a nice fountain pen also. JCUK
  12. Use a coat hanger add a piece of felt - why pay when you can make it yourself? Hope this helps JCUK
  13. I believe the ones Abbey have are based on old Dixons pricking irons but could be wrong there. https://www.abbeyengland.com/abbey-traditional-pricking-iron-set-right-hand-9942.html https://www.abbeyengland.com/abbey-traditional-pricking-iron-set-left-hand-9948.html They also have these which come in sets of three handy for you and cheaper too but don't seem to be as substantial as the above. https://www.abbeyengland.com/abbey-traditional-oblique-pricking-iron-set-right-hand-10098.html https://www.abbeyengland.com/abbey-traditional-oblique-pricking-iron-set-left-hand-9965.html Left handed and Righted irons maybe of use to down the road with what you wanting to make think i have already mentioned this before in another thread. Both types are made in the far east i think. George Barnsley tools made in the UK https://www.georgebarnsleyandsons.co.uk/product-page/pricking-iron https://www.georgebarnsleyandsons.co.uk/product-page/pricking-iron-1 No frills there just do the job of stitch marking so no spoon feeding here. Hope this helps JCUK
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