Compounds For Stropping And Buffing

[Knipper]

I suspect what I'm about to suggest might seem like heresy to some, but I hope you'll take it in the spirit in which its intended...to help improve the edges on your steel cutting tools.

Somewhere along the line, the term "jeweler's rouge" came to be an almost generic term for all buffing compounds. But, in this case, the term can be taken literally. Jeweler's rouge is a compound intended to polish jewelry (gold and silver). It also does a good job of polishing brass, nickel silver and copper. What all these metals have in common is they are relatively soft. Jeweler's rouge (rouge is the French word for red...) is ideal for soft metals because when you polish someone's gold ring, you want to keep the gold on the ring, not buff it away. Hence, the abrasive qualities of red Jeweler's rouge is very, very slight; just enough to polish, but not enough to wear away. Tripoli, a brown compound, is another type intended to polish soft metals, but slightly more aggressive than jeweler's rouge. When it comes to steel, however, something more aggressive is needed to help maintain your cutting edge. Buffing compounds intended for steel not only polish, but actually 'cut' the steel like a very fine hone. There is a general color code to these compounds, but within each class or color, grits do vary, depending on the manufacturer. Another issue is, anyone can contact a manufacturer and have a run of a particular grit made in any color they want to specify (One of my suppliers has bars of compound made that I like very much for my knives, and he had them color it light blue!). The grit doesn't determine the color of the bar and vice versa! But, for the most part, compounds for steel come in black, gray, white and green. All have 'cut and color' properties. That means the compound 'cuts' the steel and polishes it (what they refer to as color). Black is usually the most aggressive, then the gray's, greens and whites. You can charge your buffing wheel with them or rub them on a leather strop.

I've found that for me, the best all around compounds are the green chrome type. They have enough abrasive qualities to 'cut' the steel and leave a nice polished surface. This is what would be used to maintain a sharp edge. For more drastic action, use the gray's. Black or 'emery' compound is too aggressive to use on a regular basis, but is great if your blade is rusted or stained. It takes that off quickly, but the edge should be treated with a gray or green afterwards.

The problem with using jeweler's rouge is that though it might shine the steel, its not really removing metal at the edge like you want it too. In fact, it might actually dull the blade. Here's why: After an initial buff or strop, the edge is tested. Sharp?, no...better press harder. Still not sharp? Hmmm...better increase the angle. At the end of the session, the edge is now shiny as can be...and rounded off! Had a green compound been used, light pressure at a slight angle would have given the user a scary sharp edge (assuming it was honed well to begin with of course).

I have read several books written by Stohlman, which recommend stropping with 'jeweler's rouge', and this perhaps has influenced people to use it. It could have been an error or intentional. But I strongly recommend you give the green or other compounds a try. They are intended for steel and may give you more of what you're trying to achieve in your edged tools.

Knipper

Edited August 2, 2011 by Knipper

[r lenna]

I use the green myself to start with and then something soft to finish off with. I use a Barry King knife and I can cut for 30 mins or more before it starts to drag. but I strop for maybe five mins or more when I do strop it. I Rob

[King's X]

I think the information is good and appreciate you taking the time to post it for some of our newer family members. I also use the green compound overall, but I have some yellow mixture that I have used in the past with my chip carving blades.

Thanks again.

[TwinOaks]

Thanks Knipper for posting the info. A lot of our more experienced members have learned this through trial and error, probably because no one ever told them the difference. This bit of information should prove invaluable to our new members (and maybe to others) for keeping the keenest of edges on their steel.

[Knipper]

Yes! The colors of buffing compound are all over the spectrum. You mentioned yellow. Sometimes you have to take the risk and try something. Most places that sell compounds, for knife making or for woodcarver's use, are pretty good about describing what the compound will do, and how aggressive the grit is. That's a GOOD thing.

I think the information is good and appreciate you taking the time to post it for some of our newer family members. I also use the green compound overall, but I have some yellow mixture that I have used in the past with my chip carving blades.

Thanks again.

[Ladykahu]

Bit of a 'newbie' question...

My hubby has some white and green polishing compound that he uses for his car / engine restoration stuff.

When I started with leather work earlier this year I didn't have any 'jewelers rouge' so I tried using the white compound he had, but his is kind of greasy and just wouldn't rub off on cardboard as I expected. When I ordered some blades and tools from the states I added in some tandy jewelers rouge and instantly noticed the difference on my swivel knife cutting.

Are there different base types (oil vs water) to the buffing compounds? or could it just have been his block was to old and had dried to much to rub off?

I have recently picked up a second hand head knife that needs a bit of work done on it to bring it up to scratch and had been thinking I would try his coarser polishing compounds again.

Natalie

[Knipper]

Natalie,

Yes, some of the compounds are very dry. Frequently, some kind of wax is used to bind the grit together. If you run into a very dry bar, it will still work on a buffing wheel, but for a leather strop, you might have to rub some mineral oil (neatsfoot oil might work too) into the leather before you try to rub in compound. I wouldn't use cardboard as the base for your strop. I would think a swivel knife blade would require a firmer surface like the cardboard backing to a note pad...maybe you weren't referring to corrugated. The oil breaks down the wax and makes it easier to spread. Also, some leathers take the compound better than others. I've run into some that just won't hold compound as the grain is too tight. For that leather, you can take some 150-220 grit sandpaper to the grain side and rough it up a bit first...the oil does help, though. In my opinion, horse hide makes for the best strop (Barbers used that for their straight razors for a couple hundred years). Just keep putting some oil on as you rub the compound in. Eventually, you'll have a thin layer of it on the leather and you'll be good to go. If the compound starts flaking off, add a bit more oil and rub. In general, you'll have better results with the green as opposed to the white, but even white is better than "jeweler's rouge".

For head knives, I like thicker leather, with some give to it. That helps conform to the convex shape of the edge. For other types of blades, such as bevel knives, skivers and swivel knife blades, a firmer surface might be best(thin 4-5 oz leather glued to a board).

Knipper

Bit of a 'newbie' question...

My hubby has some white and green polishing compound that he uses for his car / engine restoration stuff.

When I started with leather work earlier this year I didn't have any 'jewelers rouge' so I tried using the white compound he had, but his is kind of greasy and just wouldn't rub off on cardboard as I expected. When I ordered some blades and tools from the states I added in some tandy jewelers rouge and instantly noticed the difference on my swivel knife cutting.

Are there different base types (oil vs water) to the buffing compounds? or could it just have been his block was to old and had dried to much to rub off?

I have recently picked up a second hand head knife that needs a bit of work done on it to bring it up to scratch and had been thinking I would try his coarser polishing compounds again.

Natalie

Edited August 3, 2011 by Knipper

[mike59]

Thank You for this information. Can you recommend a supplier that sells the various bars?

Natalie,

Yes, some of the compounds are very dry. Frequently, some kind of wax is used to bind the grit together. If you run into a very dry bar, it will still work on a buffing wheel, but for a leather strop, you might have to rub some mineral oil (neatsfoot oil might work too) into the leather before you try to rub in compound. I wouldn't use cardboard as the base for your strop. I would think a swivel knife blade would require a firmer surface like the cardboard backing to a note pad...maybe you weren't referring to corrugated. The oil breaks down the wax and makes it easier to spread. Also, some leathers take the compound better than others. I've run into some that just won't hold compound as the grain is too tight. For that leather, you can take some 150-220 grit sandpaper to the grain side and rough it up a bit first...the oil does help, though. In my opinion, horse hide makes for the best strop (Barbers used that for their straight razors for a couple hundred years). Just keep putting some oil on as you rub the compound in. Eventually, you'll have a thin layer of it on the leather and you'll be good to go. If the compound starts flaking off, add a bit more oil and rub. In general, you'll have better results with the green as opposed to the white, but even white is better than "jeweler's rouge".

For head knives, I like thicker leather, with some give to it. That helps conform to the convex shape of the edge. For other types of blades, such as bevel knives, skivers and swivel knife blades, a firmer surface might be best(thin 4-5 oz leather glued to a board).

Knipper

[bentley]

Great information, I have been doing leather work for many years and had never heard of the various compounds available. Now the search begins on where to find them.

Thank you.

[Knipper]

For the green compounds, try Knife and Gun finishing supplies,www.knifeandgun.com, and ask for their 'premium green bar'. It tends to rub into leather a little easier. I also have very good luck with a green compound from R.W.Wilson, www.rwwilsonknives.com. Call and ask him for the green compound in the cardboard tube. Both of these vendors have additional compounds in various grits available.

Knipper

Thank You for this information. Can you recommend a supplier that sells the various bars?