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You can oil any time. I oil just after I finish tooling. Then I oil again before I dye. I use a pro oil dye. I will not dye before the leathers dry. That will cause uneven dyed places in the leather. If you're using a water based dye you need to wait till the oil has a chance to soak in, or wait to oil till after you dye.

Have you tried sanding and then saddle soap? or best yet read this http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18101

If you are looking for something a little less $$. Springfield leather carries all kinds of stuff

I like Panhandle Leather. I've never had anything bad from there. They have HO for $160 a side. Wicket and Craig is tough to cut with a swivel knife.

It's all very nice. I think it is some of the best looking bags and wallets I've seen in quite a while here. It's top notch

Those are both very nice. If you're planning to use them I would get some brewers pitch, or they will get a little soggy.

I like it, It really looks like a saddle. I think you did a really great job on that. The only problem I see are that the edges of the saddle look a little raw. If it was me I would rub a little antique into the edges, or dye. I think it would improve the look a lot. I'm a nit picker, but I found out that if you leave one little thing undone. The customer will start looking for others.

The outside will be hard enough to do for some one just starting out. The insides will be pretty difficult. I make my own patterns. Just look at wallets online that you like and take it from there. Or you can buy inserts. Springfield Leather has quite a few to pick from. You will have to decide what you're up for. Here are some of the inserts they do http://springfieldleather.com/31/Chaylor-Fenneli-Interiors/ There is a very good tutorial here for making your own here http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=9940 As for books, there's enough info right here to get you started. For sewing check this out http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=12259 For the spacing of the stitches you can get a overstitch wheel and an awl. What I would start with is an diamond chisel. I use something like that. I use it just to mark the holes It will give you proper spaceing and angle. Or you can use just that or a diamond or stitching awl and overstitch, a groover, and an edger, and some OO harness will get you started. I would try http://springfieldleather.com/14/Hand-Tools/ for your tools. They are less expensive and the tools are better

I would suggest that you try out Springfield Leather http://springfieldleather.com/17/Leathers/ the selection is larger and less $$$

start at the bottom hole from the inside # 1. go to the next hole up on the other side. this is on the back of the stitching now. go straight across to the other side go the hole go across and up one hole. when you get to the top you turn around and go back down. if you want to have the straight part just go across from 7 to 6 . then go back to 7 and down to 8. 6 7 8 5 4 9 10 3 2 11 12 1

Very nice job, I'm sure that she will love it.

You can get the best. That would be the douglas http://www.sheridanleather.com/Awl_Blades_p/dt-awl-blades.htm. That's about $30 just for the blade. I would get the handle at Springfield leatherhttp://springfieldleather.com/24633/Awl%2CHaft%2CStitching%2C%23145/. At Sheridan the handle will run $75. I think that is a little much for a handle. I have a Osbourne awl http://springfieldleather.com/24641/Blade%2CStabbing-Awl-Eye%2C3-3-4%22/ that might need a little sharpening, but It's only $8 and it will get the job done.

That's very nice. Did you use a pattern or make it your self? How much did you have to allow for the lining. They look very warm. I know I'd love to have a pair myself. Very pretty and thanks for showing them. Rob

I love everything except the color. No I think it's cool. I've used lots of recycled leather in my projects. Jackets to old breif cases. It's lots better than throwing it away. Maybe except for that jacket... Rob

All your work is very nice. You're molding is nice, and so is your stitching. The edge burnishing on the pieces I can see all look expertly done. It looks like the carving of the leaves on the knife sheath was done when the leather too wet. Of the leaves on the belt I can't tell forr sure. With the thickness of the leather you are using you could get the look of more depth, and cleaner looking edges. The tool marks around the skulls should be a little smoother. The beveler should be walked and the individual tool marks should all blend together. Keep up the good work and thank you for posting. Rob

That's a very nice job that you've done on that. That's a job to be proud of. Keep up the good work.

About the oil, I have had second thoughts. Oil would keep a water based dye from working at all. I gave you some bad advice on that one. Sorry about that. Rob

Very nice, I've done quite a few molding jobs and I think that your job looks as good or better than mine. I like the tooling that you've done also. The dye jobs nice and even. Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing. Rob

I think you did a very nice job on it. What type of sealer did you use on the bag? I know if you use Fiebings Resolene finish it will waterproof it and lighten the antique stain on the bag. I'm not sure if that will help or not. I think it looks good as is. Rob

I think the color is great. I have a question, how long do you let the dye dry? I don't use any eco-flow stuff. I like the Fiebings stuff myself. With the Fiebings oil dyes and the pro oil dyes you will get beter penetration. Make sure the leather is dry then I oil before I dye then dye. Then you need to give the dye a full day to dry. Inside in winter maybe more. That might help things. Some times it helps to buff the area with a rag to get off any loose stuff. I think that you're doing a fantastic job with what I see here. Rob

Brettuns Village has small hides and scrap http://www.brettunsvillage.com/leather/vegtanleathers.htm and thicker stuff http://www.brettunsvillage.com/leather/solebends.htm so does Springfield leather they have lots to choose from http://springfieldleather.com/17/Leathers/

I've used American Leather Direct also and most likely will not again after trying Hermond Oak. The differnce is like night and day. H.O is easy to tool. It will spoil you

There are people that you can talk to at Springfield Leather. I've found I can always get some good advise there. Rob

I would take advantage of all the knowlege that you can get here, and on youtube. Here at The Paul Burnett pages here http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showforum=214 just search and you shall find. There's a lot more free lessons that you find here if you just look. If I was starting over again I would skip the tandy swivel knife and get one at Barry King. If you can't afford that you can get a blade there that will fit the Tandy swivel knife. I'm a too; junkey myself, since I can't afford to buy all the tools I need I make them. It dosn't cost a fortune to do this. I have 25 Barry King tools that I have collected over the years, but I have a bunch of tandy tools I still use. You can do great work with either. Just have fun. This is the best place to learn. Rob

I'm not used to the sizes that you are using I would use a 346 weight that I think is about .6553 to a 415..07118 It depends as to how you want the stitiching to stand out. The 346 is about the smallest I would use. Of course here you could ask ten different people and get as many different answers. Rob