Snap Quality

[JeffGC]

Is there a difference in the quality of 24 Line snaps? Recently, I used nickel plated snaps purchased from S-T Leather, in St. Louis. They were set using a tool also purchased from them. The following problems occurred:

1. When setting, the tubes fractured and tore instead of rolling neatly. The metal seems to be excessively hard.
2. After forming the holster, I noticed blue stains on the leather around the snap. Leather is Wickett & Craig. The stains were removed with Oxalic Acid. They reappeared when the holster was finished with Neatsfoot Oil.
3. The completed snaps do not fasten as firmly and securely as I'd want.

Any comments and/or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Jeff

Edited August 3, 2011 by JeffGC

[Lobo]

There is quite a bit of difference between various brands of snaps. Different metals (stainless steel, plated steel, brass, plated brass), rivet shaft lengths, etc, all make snap setting a chore at times. Much of what I've seen in suppliers' catalogs is imported products

I prefer the Durable Dot fasteners for most uses. A bit pricier than some others, but more consistent quality IMO. Purchasing in bulk quantities reduces per-unit costs considerably.

I have been trying to find snap buttons (female portion) that mount with machine screws, rather than rivet-style mounting, especially for use on thicker and reinforced areas like thumb-breaks. Also working on an arbor press modification to use for snap setting (along the lines of a recent post in this forum), hoping for more consistency and ease in use.

[Sixer]

I agree with Lobo... Durable Dot or Pull-The Dot snaps are the way to go. They are much easier to set by hand. I finally broke down and bought some in bulk. I still wasn't too thrilled about spending $80-$90 on snaps... but they were well worth it.

[JeffGC]

If wealth was to be measured in how many snap parts one owns, I will shortly be considered quite rich! From Dot, I've order two lengths of caps, two lengths of posts, studs and eyelets. All are 24 Line brass with nickel plating, standard hold.

At least I'll never run out.

Jeff

[busted]

Is there a difference in the quality of 24 Line snaps? Recently, I used nickel plated snaps purchased from S-T Leather, in St. Louis. They were set using a tool also purchased from them. The following problems occurred:

1. When setting, the tubes fractured and tore instead of rolling neatly. The metal seems to be excessively hard.
2. After forming the holster, I noticed blue stains on the leather around the snap. Leather is Wickett & Craig. The stains were removed with Oxalic Acid. They reappeared when the holster was finished with Neatsfoot Oil.
3. The completed snaps do not fasten as firmly and securely as I'd want.

Any comments and/or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Jeff

I hate when that happens. The solution I came upon is taking the setting tool, put in a drill press and take a file and cut the shoulder off of the setting tool. The only thing left is the rise in the

middle of the tool that mushrooms the snap post.. I don't loose any more snaps.

[Shooter McGavin]

I've wanted to punch through glass block windows while trying to set snaps. Tried a wide variety of snaps, tool, methods, presses, pliers, hopes, prayers, curse words, and bloodied fingers.

The only way I've found to get consistent results is to make sure the post on the cap is pressed down into the cap itself. Some manufacturers seem to do this already, the ones I buy from Tandy certainly do not.

I then dampen the leather where the snap will go, place the cap through the punched hole, then place the socket in position. Using a short section of 5/16 steel brake line and a hammer, I seat the socket into the leather, and the leather into the cap.

Next I use a heavily tapered center punch and slightly expand the post on the cap. Once it is expanded, I use the cheapy setting tool from Tandy to roll form the post.

I get very little deflection using this method and the roll crimps are always nice and strong.

The same basic method is use for setting the eyelet to the stud.

I no longer fear the snaps.

[RMB Custom Leather]

Is there a difference in the quality of 24 Line snaps? Recently, I used nickel plated snaps purchased from S-T Leather, in St. Louis. They were set using a tool also purchased from them. The following problems occurred:

1. When setting, the tubes fractured and tore instead of rolling neatly. The metal seems to be excessively hard.
2. After forming the holster, I noticed blue stains on the leather around the snap. Leather is Wickett & Craig. The stains were removed with Oxalic Acid. They reappeared when the holster was finished with Neatsfoot Oil.
3. The completed snaps do not fasten as firmly and securely as I'd want.

Any comments and/or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Jeff

I had the same problem when I bought the hand press from Tandy's (piece of crap) I ended up buying the Weaver foot press and love it very much well worth the money

Edited August 9, 2011 by RMB Custom Leather

[Nooj]

Years ago, before I got into leather, I was replacing a convertible top on an old Triumph Spitfire. After ruining several of the caps and female snaps (and breaking a few porch spindles from throwing my hammer in frustration), I found a company that sells snap setting tools that fit onto the jaws of 10" straight jawed vice-grip type pliers.

I've used them on a couple leather projects so far, and they've worked error free so far with my Tandy snaps. It's probably not as easy and nice as using a snap press or arbor press, but it's fairly inexpensive and easy enough to do.

If I can think of the name of the company that makes 'em, I'll post it.

Nooj