A Servo Motor On A Tradition Singer Patcher Base/table

[Wizcrafts]

Hey Wizcrafts, I was just thinking..... with your setup (handwheel on the front) the smallish motor doesn't have the added weight of the handwheel/pulley combo to try and turn. Do you think the combo would make a difference for the motor's ability in this application?

On my setup, the hand wheel is active in the drive circuit. It rotates with the pulley, but at a slower rate of rotation. I tried operating it with the handwheel disconnected, by pulling the bobbin winder pin. The motor made the machine take off like a bat out of hell! Stopping it wasn't on a dime either! It seems to need the weight of the hand wheel to provide smoothness and controllability to this system. This lets me apply just enough hand control to get going, after which the motor does just fine. The motor is able to begin sewing without help from the hand wheel.

[sandyt]

Sandy - Thanks for the picture. That wheel looks huge, where'd you source it from? Your setup looks a bit more complicated than the 1.5 amp can motor though, and at 110euros, is a little more expensive than the can motor - if I'm not mistaken.

That setup sure is more complicated and more expensive. But it drives an Adler 5. That handwheel is the original handwheel of the Adler.

Wiz's setup looks realy good. If only the motor had a little more power I would deffinatly give it a try with my patcher. It's still handcranked. But I will be looking for a small ( little more power) motor like that though. Maybe I will just try a hand drill once. Lots of torque and good speedcontrol.

Sandy.

[CustomDoug]

This lets me apply just enough hand control to get going, after which the motor does just fine. The motor is able to begin sewing without help from the hand wheel.

By "just enough hand control" do you mean help at the piece leather, the feed dog area?.... in other words the hand wheel is not touched to get the motor turning because you're helping feed the leather with your hands at first?

[Wizcrafts]

By "just enough hand control" do you mean help at the piece leather, the feed dog area?.... in other words the hand wheel is not touched to get the motor turning because you're helping feed the leather with your hands at first?

No. I mean that it is best to spin the hand wheel a half turn, or so, to help the motor overcome the weight of the machine's mechanism. Once it is in motion, it's easier to control the speed. I can slow way down and keep the machine in motion, thanks to the heavy flywheel (hand wheel). Operating with the wheel disengaged causes jack rabbit starts and stops and lots of clanging and banging of the moving parts.

Once the motor takes control, I can use both hands to guide, or guide and pull the leather.

Also, there is no feed dog area on a patcher. The rotating pressor foot does all of the feeding of the material, via aggressive teeth on the bottom of the foot.

[CustomDoug]

...Also, there is no feed dog area on a patcher. The rotating pressor foot does all of the feeding of the material, via aggressive teeth on the bottom of the foot.

Thanks for the explanation, I understand about helping the motor with the handwheel now. And also I do realize there's no feed dog on the patchers - I just tend to say stuff without thinking sometimes . Hey BTW, have you ground down (grinded ) the foot on your machine?

[Trox]

Hi all

My 29 k 72 came new with a modern pedestal and a singer ½ hp clutch motor. But I always hand crank it. I have tried those hollow polyethylene belts with a quick connector; they grip well but are too flexible. I would like to try the solid ones. Sandy, did you weld the belt your self? Is it an easy way to do this without buying some expensive tools?

Here is a German website with endless belts;

http://www.behabelt.com/en/belts/round-belts.html

Thanks,

Trox

[Wizcrafts]

Thanks for the explanation ... Hey BTW, have you ground down (grinded ) the foot on your machine?

Absolutely not! It needs the teeth to pull the material through. The only time ground down teeth would be useful to me would be if I was using the patcher to sew soft or thin veg-tan wallets together, or to attach a Ranger belt strap. With the teeth gone, one would have to greatly reduce the foot pressure, or risk losing feed-ability.

I have a triple feed, high lift, walking foot machine and a Union Lockstitch jumping foot needle feed machine. I use those for belts, holsters and heavy straps. Neither of those machines will mark the leather. I use my patcher for circular items and for patch sewing and repairing rips, handles and zippers in garments and hand bags. I also use it to sew seed bead projects to leather belts. I depend on the teeth being present and accounted for.

Your use may be different and may work fine sans teeth on the foot.

[CustomDoug]

Your use may be different and may work fine sans teeth on the foot.

I've just been considering removing the teeth lately... and dipping it in that rubberized coating stuff for grip. I think I'll get an extra one and try it.

[Wizcrafts]

I've just been considering removing the teeth lately... and dipping it in that rubberized coating stuff for grip. I think I'll get an extra one and try it.

I was going to suggest buying a spare foot. If your grinding idea doesn't pan out, you're only out the spare foot.

I customized a spare foot on my buddy's Adler 30-70 patcher, to make the left toe very narrow (just enough to hold down the leather as the needle ascends). I also tapered it inward on the front and bottom, to reduce accidentally gouging stuff on the left of the foot. We use this foot to sew very close to formed cases, or jacket snaps, or tough zipper replacement jobs.

Edited September 5, 2011 by Wizcrafts

[sandyt]

Yes Trox, I did it myself with just a lighter. Just hold the two ends next to each other and heat them at the same time. Don't let it burn and get black! Then push the ends together on a flat surface so you don't move the ends all the time with your hands. My hands aren't that steady. After a minute or so I put it in cold water to make absolutely sure it is cooled down al through. If you did it right you can pull as hard as you can but it won't break at the weld. I guess you just have to practice a few times. I did.

There is a special tool for it. The mechanic at work showed it to me. Nothing fancy. Just a clamp to hold and push the ends together. And the heating was done with a soldering iron. Instead of a point there was a little metal plate. That's it.

You could cut the exsesive material but it doesn't bother me so I just leave it.

Sandy.

[oldtimer]

Hi all

My 29 k 72 came new with a modern pedestal and a singer ½ hp clutch motor. But I always hand crank it. I have tried those hollow polyethylene belts with a quick connector; they grip well but are too flexible. I would like to try the solid ones. Sandy, did you weld the belt your self? Is it an easy way to do this without buying some expensive tools?

Here is a German website with endless belts;

http://www.behabelt....ound-belts.html

Thanks,

Trox

Thor, I think your hollow belt is too long if you have problems with the flex. I´m using it on my Adler 105-25 and my Singer 29K without problems , so my advice is to shorten it ( cut out one end of the connector plug with a sharp knife, shorten the belt and reassemble ) The company that sold the hollow belt told me to shorten the belt at least 10% .

/ Knut

Edited September 5, 2011 by oldtimer

[Trox]

Hi Knut,

I have tried that, you told me the first time, remember. When I stitch thick heavy leather, the hand wheel turns 180 degrees before the needle punch true. For a patcher it is fine, but it is too flexible for my Adler class 5. My speed reducer mounting demands a very long belt. I have changed it back to a V belt. The pulley is made for a round belt and the V belt twists, but it works. The V belt will wear out faster (because of the twisting), it also need more tension to stay on the pulley and will wear on machine bearings. The hollow poly belt has no slippage like a leather belt and is very good on a lighter job. However, I need a solid core one for my class 5.

I just found a company in Oslo that had those German BEHA belt on their web site. It remains to see if they will sell me one. Did the company you bought from have the solid core ones?

Trox

Thor, I think your hollow belt is too long if you have problems with the flex. I´m using it on my Adler 105-25 and my Singer 29K without problems , so my advice is to shorten it ( cut out one end of the connector plug with a sharp knife, shorten the belt and reassemble ) The company that sold the hollow belt told me to shorten the belt at least 10% .

/ Knut

[Trox]

Thanks Sandy,

I just found an Oslo based company that had the BEHA belts on their website; it remains to see if they will sell me a one. It is an industrial service company, and it has no web shop. The hollow one I got from my Swedish friend Knut (Oldtimer). Where do you buy your belts Sandy?

Trox

Yes Trox, I did it myself with just a lighter. Just hold the two ends next to each other and heat them at the same time. Don't let it burn and get black! Then push the ends together on a flat surface so you don't move the ends all the time with your hands. My hands aren't that steady. After a minute or so I put it in cold water to make absolutely sure it is cooled down al through. If you did it right you can pull as hard as you can but it won't break at the weld. I guess you just have to practice a few times. I did.

There is a special tool for it. The mechanic at work showed it to me. Nothing fancy. Just a clamp to hold and push the ends together. And the heating was done with a soldering iron. Instead of a point there was a little metal plate. That's it.

You could cut the exsesive material but it doesn't bother me so I just leave it.

Sandy.

[oldtimer]

Hi Knut,

I have tried that, you told me the first time, remember. When I stitch thick heavy leather, the hand wheel turns 180 degrees before the needle punch true. For a patcher it is fine, but it is too flexible for my Adler class 5. My speed reducer mounting demands a very long belt. I have changed it back to a V belt. The pulley is made for a round belt and the V belt twists, but it works. The V belt will wear out faster (because of the twisting), it also need more tension to stay on the pulley and will wear on machine bearings. The hollow poly belt has no slippage like a leather belt and is very good on a lighter job. However, I need a solid core one for my class 5.

I just found a company in Oslo that had those German BEHA belt on their web site. It remains to see if they will sell me one. Did the company you bought from have the solid core ones?

Trox

Hey Thor

They have the solid core belts, from 3 mm and up. http://www.kilremslagret.se/system/start.asp?HID=51&FID=49&HSID=606

/ Knut

[sandyt]

I buy them at a local shop. As I am not familiar with the measurements and types and such, I just go there and take the pulleys and v-belts with me so I can explain what I am planning to do. It's called ATD. Just a type of store Oldtimer just mentioned. Drive technology store??? In dutch it's called aandrijftechniek. You can buy al kinds and sizes pulley's and v-belts and belts overthere.

Sandy.

Thanks Sandy,

I just found an Oslo based company that had the BEHA belts on their website; it remains to see if they will sell me a one. It is an industrial service company, and it has no web shop. The hollow one I got from my Swedish friend Knut (Oldtimer). Where do you buy your belts Sandy?

Trox

[Trox]

Tanks guys,

I have a hard time finding stuff like this in Norway, we do not produce anything but fish and oil over here.

I will try the Oslo Company first, if no luck I will try Knut’s place.

Knut, I heard you had a visitor from Norway. She told me good things about your workshop. Looking good and practical, she said.

But she did not buy your machine?

Trox