A Servo Motor On A Tradition Singer Patcher Base/table

[CustomDoug]

Neither. I ordered a 23" x 1/4" cogged belt for older Singer home sewing machines. It is a number 2314 belt. This belt will be long enough to allow me to mount the motor up alongside the back of the body, as opposed to down along the rear of the machine's support platform. I will grind down the edge of the motor mount that is interfering with the raised center area on my machine mounting platform, or drill and tap another hole for it, to the right of the first one.

Hey Wizcrafts, did you ever get the cogged belt in and have a chance to install the motor up higher in the back of the 29K72? I'd sure like to see a picture of it when you get a chance, please & thanks!

[sandyt]

Maybe this is an option? Just a second hand motor with a little reduction gearbox. Second hand frequency converter (VFD). With pulley and v-belt I spend 110 euro's.

LOTS of torque and full speedcontrol. This is not the most beatufull setup but I am too impatient to do it all neat and nice. But it works like a train.

Only have had this machine for a few days and at first I didn't want to put a motor on it. But the stand isn't it's original so I didn't mind drilling some holes in it.

Sandy.

Edited September 4, 2011 by sandyt

[Wizcrafts]

Hey Wizcrafts, did you ever get the cogged belt in and have a chance to install the motor up higher in the back of the 29K72? I'd sure like to see a picture of it when you get a chance, please & thanks!

Thanks for reminding me about this. Here's your pictures of the 29K172, equipped with an AlphaSew 1.5 amp motor and transistor controller, running the big pulley with a 23" x 1/4" inch cogged belt. It penetrates 1/4 inch of black strap leather with a little effort, and 1/8" like butter. Unlike the leather drive belt, this belt does not slip at all.

Amazingly, now that I am able to use both hands on the leather, this setup sews 5 stitches per inch into 1/4" of belt leather, at maximum foot lift and bottom-most stitch regulator settings (where you can still use the lift lever). The presser foot activator has almost no appreciable free play.

The triple folded piece of 8 oz belt leather secures the motor against the back of the head, preventing it from being pulled up under strain. My preferred mounting place was completely along the back of the base. But, I can't find a cogged belt 27.5 inches long to mount it there.

Edited September 4, 2011 by Wizcrafts

[CustomDoug]

Sandy - Thanks for the picture. That wheel looks huge, where'd you source it from? Your setup looks a bit more complicated than the 1.5 amp can motor though, and at 110euros, is a little more expensive than the can motor - if I'm not mistaken.

Wizcrafts - Thanks too for the pictures, it's always a big help. I like that setup and think I'll be doing this. The leather shim's not a big deal but it would be nicer with the 27.5" belt. Maybe a crazy idea but do you think an auto parts store would have a longer 1/4" belt?

[CustomDoug]

Hey Wizcrafts, I was just thinking..... with your setup (handwheel on the front) the smallish motor doesn't have the added weight of the handwheel/pulley combo to try and turn. Do you think the combo would make a difference for the motor's ability in this application?

[Wizcrafts]

Hey Wizcrafts, I was just thinking..... with your setup (handwheel on the front) the smallish motor doesn't have the added weight of the handwheel/pulley combo to try and turn. Do you think the combo would make a difference for the motor's ability in this application?

On my setup, the hand wheel is active in the drive circuit. It rotates with the pulley, but at a slower rate of rotation. I tried operating it with the handwheel disconnected, by pulling the bobbin winder pin. The motor made the machine take off like a bat out of hell! Stopping it wasn't on a dime either! It seems to need the weight of the hand wheel to provide smoothness and controllability to this system. This lets me apply just enough hand control to get going, after which the motor does just fine. The motor is able to begin sewing without help from the hand wheel.

[sandyt]

Sandy - Thanks for the picture. That wheel looks huge, where'd you source it from? Your setup looks a bit more complicated than the 1.5 amp can motor though, and at 110euros, is a little more expensive than the can motor - if I'm not mistaken.

That setup sure is more complicated and more expensive. But it drives an Adler 5. That handwheel is the original handwheel of the Adler.

Wiz's setup looks realy good. If only the motor had a little more power I would deffinatly give it a try with my patcher. It's still handcranked. But I will be looking for a small ( little more power) motor like that though. Maybe I will just try a hand drill once. Lots of torque and good speedcontrol.

Sandy.

[CustomDoug]

This lets me apply just enough hand control to get going, after which the motor does just fine. The motor is able to begin sewing without help from the hand wheel.

By "just enough hand control" do you mean help at the piece leather, the feed dog area?.... in other words the hand wheel is not touched to get the motor turning because you're helping feed the leather with your hands at first?

[Wizcrafts]

By "just enough hand control" do you mean help at the piece leather, the feed dog area?.... in other words the hand wheel is not touched to get the motor turning because you're helping feed the leather with your hands at first?

No. I mean that it is best to spin the hand wheel a half turn, or so, to help the motor overcome the weight of the machine's mechanism. Once it is in motion, it's easier to control the speed. I can slow way down and keep the machine in motion, thanks to the heavy flywheel (hand wheel). Operating with the wheel disengaged causes jack rabbit starts and stops and lots of clanging and banging of the moving parts.

Once the motor takes control, I can use both hands to guide, or guide and pull the leather.

Also, there is no feed dog area on a patcher. The rotating pressor foot does all of the feeding of the material, via aggressive teeth on the bottom of the foot.

[CustomDoug]

...Also, there is no feed dog area on a patcher. The rotating pressor foot does all of the feeding of the material, via aggressive teeth on the bottom of the foot.

Thanks for the explanation, I understand about helping the motor with the handwheel now. And also I do realize there's no feed dog on the patchers - I just tend to say stuff without thinking sometimes . Hey BTW, have you ground down (grinded ) the foot on your machine?