New Style Holster For Me, Need Feedback

[Shooter McGavin]

So, I have an uncle who wants a crossdraw holster for his Colt Lawman .357 Magnum. He also doesnt like the "fancy" holsters I typically make.

So i opened up the Al Stohlman "Holsters" book and followed the instructions that pertain to making a holster for your particular revolver.

And this is what I came up with. It's 8/9oz Hermann Oak hand rubbed with a mixture of 100% neatsfoot oil, Fiebings Oil Mahogany, and Fiebings Oil Saddle Tan. I warmed it up with a heat gun and applied Fiebings Snow-Proof.

It's semi-unfinished.. I need to polish up the edges a bit still.

But before I do that, I just wanted to see if you all think I have a solid, safe, functional design going on here? If not, what areas are of concern, where do I need to pay more attention, whats going to break first? Anything you can offer up, please do so. I handle criticism well.

Also, assuming this one is good to go, can I apply a sealant over the Snow-Proof, or should that in itself be the final finish? I'm still getting a bit of dye rub off.

Thanks a bunch!

Dan

[MBOGO]

Looks good from here. The "tail" on the safety strap could be a little longer.

The inspires me, I've got that exact revolver in matte nickle, but with the factory Colt Pachmayer rubber grips.

[Haystacker]

Looks like a fine rig to me. How does the holster feel on your belt? I'm thinking it may take a while before you stop getting rub off. Thinking the holster, an old T shirt and a good gangster movie may be in order. Good luck.

Jeff

[Shooter McGavin]

Honestly, it feels quite weird on me when I tried it on. However, I've only ever worn pakcake holsters, and then only between 3 o'clock and 5 o'clock. Having the holster at 11 o'clock is so far from where I train and carry that I'm not sure even a perfect holster would feel right there.

If I make another retention strap, I'm thinking I may reinforce the underside with rawhide or kydex.

Is the Snow-Proof safe to use as a final finish. Everything else I've ever done has had a final finish of super sheen or satin sheen, or a mixture thereof.

Thanks for the feedback.

Thread drift alert: I've been trying to find a finish for the belts that I make that is not an acrylic sealant. Any help on that problem?

[Haystacker]

I was thinking about the snap location. Looks like you could build more body outside of the stitch line and locate the snap there. If you build another, try an open toe (my personal preference). The open toe keeps the "simple" look. I think it would still look good. The bottom line is does your uncle like his "nuttin fancy" rig. I think he will. The rig has eye appeal.

I don't know anything about snow seal. The only other thing I use that may interest you is Skidmore's Leather Cream. I like this product a lot. I have used this to bring back the color on belts and holsters. When I build belts, I still use an acrylic top coat.

[electrathon]

Changes I would make:

The trigger is open and exposed. While in the holstered position the trigger can be accidentally pulled. Bring the leather up to profile the trigger area.

The leather around the barrel should be stitched closer to the barrel and trimmed off. Looks like there is about an inch of extra leather there. Over time your lower area will loosen and the gun will start to rock. Personally in conjunction with this I see no reason to close the toe, just makes the holster longer than it needs to be.

The snap to your retention strap will rub the bluing off the trigger guard. If you want a snap, line it. Also I would move it up higher near the drum, away from the trigger.

I like Dr Jacksons as a sealant/finish on holsters.

Aaron

[katsass]

Shooter; FWIW from the grumpy old man. This is my basic holster for smaller wheelguns. Pretty simple and easily modified from a strong side to a crossdraw with a slight mod to the pattern. As to a safety strap, if I ever do include one, I would (almost always) use a thumb break ..... the tip of a strap such as you include has the ability to be inadvertently released by a jacket tail or even reaching into a pocket. I would also round the toe, as square-ish corners do not fare well in the long run .... and definitely keep it open as you will collect more lint etc. when carried in the 11:00 position, and because NOBODY ever cleans out the toe of a closed toe holster. Mike

Edited September 2, 2011 by katsass

[katsass]

Shooter; FWIW from the grumpy old man. This is my basic holster for smaller wheelguns. Pretty simple and easily modified from a strong side to a crossdraw with a slight mod to the pattern. As to a safety strap, if I ever do include one, I would (almost always) use a thumb break ..... the tip of a strap such as you include has the ability to be inadvertently released by a jacket tail or even reaching into a pocket. I would also round the toe, as square-ish corners do not fare well in the long run .... and definitely keep it open as you will collect more lint etc. when carried in the 11:00 position, and because NOBODY ever cleans out the toe of a closed toe holster. Mike

Shooter, one thing I almost forgot .....(hell, I getting old) you need to shroud (or cover) the hammer on any concealed gun with an exposed hammer. The sharp knurling and just the shape of the thing sticking up there will catch and/or tear any clothing covering the weapon. Back when I was a LEO and teaching working from a concealed holster, guns with hammers tore up a lot of shirts and sport coats. Mike

P.S. Notice that there is no safety strap on my holster ... and I carried the same holster for most of the last 10 years of my law enforcement career.

Edited September 2, 2011 by katsass

[Shooter McGavin]

Thanks for the feedback!

re: exposed trigger. I'm not concerned on that one. As long as the strap is snapped, the trigger will not actuate the hammer. Ya, I know, Murphys law. But, if I cover the trigger like Mikes holster, I wont need the snap strap at all.

re: snap location. It's off the trigger guard, but not by much. I epoxied a plastic snap cover like I use on thumb breaks to it, just in case.

re: exposed hammer. I certainly did not consider the hammer tearing stuff up. Hmmmmmm

re: open toe. The Stohlman book says leave 3/4" of leather after the muzzle, which I did. My initial stitching left the toe open, but there sure was a lot of extra leather, so I stitched it closed, which explains the track marks on the bottom edge as well. I prefer open toed holsters myself.

re: rounded toe. I couldnt figure out how to do this, but looking at Mikes holster I think the answer dawned on me.

He also has a S&W 457 semi-auto he would like a similar holster for. I'll build that one next and work some of these revisions into it.

I do appreciate you all taking the time to comment!

[katsass]

Thanks for the feedback!

re: exposed trigger. I'm not concerned on that one. As long as the strap is snapped, the trigger will not actuate the hammer. Ya, I know, Murphys law. But, if I cover the trigger like Mikes holster, I wont need the snap strap at all.

re: snap location. It's off the trigger guard, but not by much. I epoxied a plastic snap cover like I use on thumb breaks to it, just in case.

re: exposed hammer. I certainly did not consider the hammer tearing stuff up. Hmmmmmm

re: open toe. The Stohlman book says leave 3/4" of leather after the muzzle, which I did. My initial stitching left the toe open, but there sure was a lot of extra leather, so I stitched it closed, which explains the track marks on the bottom edge as well. I prefer open toed holsters myself.

re: rounded toe. I couldnt figure out how to do this, but looking at Mikes holster I think the answer dawned on me.

He also has a S&W 457 semi-auto he would like a similar holster for. I'll build that one next and work some of these revisions into it.

I do appreciate you all taking the time to comment!

Well

Shooter, for a S&W 457 you might look into something like this. This is a subcompact .45 with a skeleton hammer that has been smoothed and is a bit smaller than the 457, however, for 457 this type would work quite well. Over the years I carried a number of the S&W alloy framed guns and, as a matter of fact, went to school on them. I was the armorer for our Dept. Personally, I purchased a S&W 539 as the 39 series guns were what we were authorized to carry. I also personally preferred to carry a steel weapon while in uniform ...but they are a bunch more heavy. In plain clothes I often carried one of the alloy frame subcompacts and actually we had very little problem with any of them.This little gun is another one of my carry guns, which has been modified to increase reliability. Mike

P.S. The 3/4" at the muzzle end of the holsters in Al Stohlman's book is for a sewn, stitched or laced closed toe holster. You cut them a little closer for an open toe.

Edited September 3, 2011 by katsass

[Shooter McGavin]

I like it Mike. Thanks for the help!

I sold him the 457 about 16 years ago because I didnt like the recoil of a 45 lol. When he brought it over for me to make the holster, I couldnt believe he still had it! Memories.

[Cannon]

This is my basic pattern for DA revovers (and the occasional SA as well). It includes a Hank Sloan-esque hammer shroud, and a tab to cover the rear sight.

[katsass]

I like it Mike. Thanks for the help!

I sold him the 457 about 16 years ago because I didnt like the recoil of a 45 lol. When he brought it over for me to make the holster, I couldnt believe he still had it! Memories.

Shooter, along those lines, I gave my son my first M-39-2 when I bought my 539, (which I immediately modified). That was about '73. A pic of my old 'war horse' The kid (kid hell, he's 37 years old now) still has the old 39-2, shoots it and loves it...... for a 9mm. For wheelguns, he and I both carry .44 Spls.

Cannon, that's a very nice looking piece of work, I personally like a modified 'Threeperson' style for my personal open carry holsters, but they aren't too good for concealed work. Mike

Edited September 3, 2011 by katsass

[Cannon]

I tend to agree, and find myself using a Threepersons style more than anything else. The pattern above, however, is what got me in the holster business, and is what the majority of my customers want. It does make a nice field holster for use under a coat, or heavy shirt -- nothing to snag, yet nothing in the way of getting a good firm grip on the gun, either.

[katsass]

I tend to agree, and find myself using a Threepersons style more than anything else. The pattern above, however, is what got me in the holster business, and is what the majority of my customers want. It does make a nice field holster for use under a coat, or heavy shirt -- nothing to snag, yet nothing in the way of getting a good firm grip on the gun, either.

I agree, Shortly after I started in law enforcement we began to carry the old S&W M-19 wheel guns, and a lot of us carried the Hank Sloan style holsters off duty. We then went to the S&W auto's. Some despised them for their departure from the 1911 works... but once you got onto them, they were pretty decent shooters. My son has my original M-39-2, and I still have my M-539. Mike

[Ferg]

Dan,

I like your holster work. The stitching needs some work. I suppose someone will get on my tail for bringing this up, it is hot and I am sick of perspiring all the time.

Your needle foot is pressing too hard on the leather. Don't know what machine you are using but they can all be adjusted. If that foot isn't so dad gummed tight on the leather you won't get the "Tracks" as bad and you can make the turns and stay off the close edges. Obviously there is more to it than just this but trust me it is worth the time and effort to get rid of those damn tracks.

ferg

So, I have an uncle who wants a crossdraw holster for his Colt Lawman .357 Magnum. He also doesnt like the "fancy" holsters I typically make.

So i opened up the Al Stohlman "Holsters" book and followed the instructions that pertain to making a holster for your particular revolver.

And this is what I came up with. It's 8/9oz Hermann Oak hand rubbed with a mixture of 100% neatsfoot oil, Fiebings Oil Mahogany, and Fiebings Oil Saddle Tan. I warmed it up with a heat gun and applied Fiebings Snow-Proof.

It's semi-unfinished.. I need to polish up the edges a bit still.

But before I do that, I just wanted to see if you all think I have a solid, safe, functional design going on here? If not, what areas are of concern, where do I need to pay more attention, whats going to break first? Anything you can offer up, please do so. I handle criticism well.

Also, assuming this one is good to go, can I apply a sealant over the Snow-Proof, or should that in itself be the final finish? I'm still getting a bit of dye rub off.

Thanks a bunch!

Dan

[katsass]

Dan, as a sideline....listen to Ferg on the use of a stitching machine. I see the track he mentions, but I know absolutely nothing about those infernal machines .... I hand stitch everything. Kinda go into auto mode as I watch the History channel or Nat. Geo.. Mike

[Shooter McGavin]

Ya I stitched the toe closed when the leather was pretty wet. The side stitching is doubled up and the dang welt was moving around on me causing some shift. I like the look of a heavy thread on these holsters but my 277 needed to be doubled back to get that thick look. I know it sounds like excuses, but.... I'll try to have more patience next time.

Thanks all!

[Eaglestroker]

I can't add anything that hasn't been said, but I like the look.

[Shooter McGavin]

So I took some of the feedback from this thread and proceeded on to the next project which was for a S&W 457. I'm not sure what you call this tooling style though. I wanted 2 different color dyes so I carved a "window", then thought it looked to plain so I stole the wifes camo stamp and put a border around the window. I used oil mahogany on the outer portion and the interior, and a couple coats of oil saddle tan inside the window. Finished with a few airbrushed coats of my sealant mixture. I had a difficult time taking the pics outside, but heres the best of the bunch anyway.

Then I redid the Colt Lawman holster. I ended up making a sewed on belt loop because I couldnt get the flap fold in the right position. Finish is a mixture of neatsfoot oil, and mahogany, saddle tan, and light brown oil dyes, applied haphazardly with a wool dauber to leather that was wetter in some areas than others. I think it came out pretty cool, looks like it's been around awhile. I also decided to try carving his initials in there, you can see I need plenty of practice. I do see where I could have taken some leather away from the area behind the trigger guard. Will adjust this pattern for future reference. Again, pictures came out bad but I salvaged a few.

Feedback, thought, opinions, yell at me, etc..

Thanks!

Dan

[Eaglestroker]

Shooter, I really like the way both of them turned out. Good job!

[Blackey Cole]

I have two comments on the new wheelgun holster. A) the camo barely shows up so you need to let the leather dry before forming it or at least let the tooling dry then rewet it. the lower part still looks big enough to allow the gun to rock to solve this how about stitching close to the mold lines like you would with a pancake and that will allow you to keep the same overall shape of the holster. I really like the two tone coloring on both. Off my soap box now.

[wizard of tragacanth]

You certainly did use the feedback to your advantage. IMHO, both holsters show improvement in every area... better designs and better execution.