How To To Piping Around A Lined Lid?

[Edvin]

Hi all, new to this forum but loving it already.

I have been trying to sew a piping around the edge of a lid. The lid is for a bag and on the inside there will be a lining. The edge of the lining fabric must be covered somehow and this is where I can´t get it right.

Every single time I get a crease, ripple or curving of the lid.

I am sewing by hand, saddlemaker stitch and using a 2 mm vegetable tanned leather. The "piping" around the edge is a piece of 0.5-1 mm thin vegetable tanned leather. I have tried with many other kinds of leather as well.

I have read Kevin Kings "wallet binding tutorial" and other but I just can´t figure out how it is made.

I´m sorry for the quality of the the pictures (and the language .

This is my sketch of the final design.

[WinterBear]

I have similar issues when binding and piping fabric, especially when the material I am using for a binding is relatively stiff and goes around a curve. You'll note that Kevin King used lambskin binding for his wallet, which is really flexible and a little stretchy. The stress of changing directions around the corner is accommodated by that stretch and flex. Dry veg tan, even thin stuff, doesn't really have that same fabric-like quality for compression along the inside of the curve and expansion at the outside edge. I'd wait for some of the experts to weigh in on solutions, but it might need for the piping, and possibly the leather lid, to be cased and stitched while wet, and then "blocked" (placed under a weight to dry flat), to stretch the piping and essentially wet-mold it around the lid and using the stretchiness of the wet-veg tan to accommodate the curve.

[Edvin]

Thank you for your input.

I will try some scrap pieces with lamb and deer and see if it changes for the better.

I´m guessing another way would be make a lining hem on the other side and skip the piping. My main concern is that the lining should come off or break at the edges. The lining is thin and silk.

[Art]

Hi Edvin,

What you are displaying in the pictures is BINDING, not PIPING. Binding will just do that crunch up thing as you go around a corner with veg tan as the excess has nowhere to go. If you use a piece of piping, it will go between the outside and the liner and because of the cord in the middle, it will cover the raw edges. When you go around an outside corner with piping, you put little V cuts in the flat part of the piping (called pinking), these little Vs close up as you go around the corner. On an inside corner, you put little slits which open up as you go around the corner.

Of course, you can do the same thing with Binding, and if you are very good at cutting the little Vs, it will be very close to unnoticeable when assembled.

Art

Hi all, new to this forum but loving it already.

I have been trying to sew a piping around the edge of a lid. The lid is for a bag and on the inside there will be a lining. The edge of the lining fabric must be covered somehow and this is where I can´t get it right.

Every single time I get a crease, ripple or curving of the lid.

I am sewing by hand, saddlemaker stitch and using a 2 mm vegetable tanned leather. The "piping" around the edge is a piece of 0.5-1 mm thin vegetable tanned leather. I have tried with many other kinds of leather as well.

I have read Kevin Kings "wallet binding tutorial" and other but I just can´t figure out how it is made.

I´m sorry for the quality of the the pictures (and the language .

This is my sketch of the final design.

[WinterBear]

Thanks Art. I went and mixed up piping and binding too. How embarrassing. That'll teach me to comment when I'm tired.

Edvin, look online for "quilt binding" and "quilt piping", and you'll see examples of pinking to go around curves and how to handle sharp corners. It'll all be for fabric, but you'd be able to adjust for leather as needed. Binding is usually a flat strip that wraps around the raw edges and is attached front and back to the project, usually tying two or more layers together. Piping is usually a flat strip that is wrapped around a cord, with the cord sewn in place along the middle of the lenghth. Piping is sewn with the flat side between layers and the covered cord extends from the project edges as a round edge. Since you are working with leather, fraying isn't a problem on the front side, and the piping would cover part of the leather edge. On the back side, where your silk would be, the silk would need to be turned under, and the hem placed against the piping. The piping would protect the stitching to some degree, but the silk would not be secured between layers of leather.

[Edvin]

Thank you!

English is not my first language and it´s a bit confusing with the terminology sometimes. I will definitely try to get some more information about binding and try the technique out some more on scrap pieces.

My main concern is how to secure the lining between two layers of leather. I have not used fabric as lining material before, only other leather so it´s a bit vague how to do it.

I appreciate all the help Art & WinterBear!

[glennaycock]

What's wrong with the example piece? It looks pretty good!

[WinterBear]

What's wrong with the example piece? It looks pretty good!

Edvin wants it to lie perfectly flat as it is meant for a lid--the front flap? See how the piece is cupped or bowed, especially in the corner? He doesn't want that.

[Art]

In that case glue the binding and hammer down or use a bone folder or the like to smooth it down. You could also sew the edge down with 33 or 46 and a 14 needle at 12spi.

Art

Edvin wants it to lie perfectly flat as it is meant for a lid--the front flap? See how the piece is cupped or bowed, especially in the corner? He doesn't want that.

[bronco]

I am having a similar battle trying to bind the edge on a pair of bat-winged chaps (5/6 oz). Rippling of the binding leather (3/4 oz chap leather) as it makes the round corner. Cutting notches helped some?? I'll try wetting the binding and see if that will help?

I would welcome any additional suggestions. Thanks!

Eric