would this work?

[Drac]

let's see if I can describe this correctly now. here's what I'm thinking and want to know if it would work. if I take a 1x6, trace around the pistol and cut that out and mount the pieces to another piece of would (doing it twice so the pistol would be in a pocket), then tack the leather to the wood (after wetting and some light stretching) across the pocket area, then place the pistol (that's been placed in a plastic bag) in the pocket area and clamp the whole thing together, would it work?

[WaG35]

If you do that, I would round over the edges that are going to touch the leather with a router and then smooth them really well. I would think that if you don't do that you would scar up the leather pretty good. Beyond that, give it a shot. The worst that could happen is you could screw up 2 small pieces of leather.

[Beaverslayer]

You will also have to make the cutout in your wood a bit bigger to accomodate the thickness of the leather, and be sure to cut your leather a fair bit bigger than needed to allow for the bends and such.

I made the same type of press for Zippo Lighters, I used Maple becuase it is a hardwood, and didn't soak up as much water, making the press last a whole lot longer and there was not softening of the wood when I was clamping them together. Spruce, Pine and such will get very moist and soft, thus cuasing the impression to not be very distinct.

Ken

[Drac]

Ken, yep, was planning on cutting the pocket a little larger to accommodate the leather. just forgot to mention that in the idea post. thanks for the tip on the maple.

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

Drac, I'm not sure you will get much retention that way. There are so many abnormal surfaces on a handgun that the areas like the takedown lever or safety will bottom out against the wood before the thinner parts like the dust cover might not even get touched. Do you plan on making the pocket deep enough to mearly stretch the leather over the surface of the whole gun? That might work, but a moldeing press is a lot simpler solution. You only have to build it once and you can use it on any pistol. This other way it seems you will have to make a set of blocks for every different pistol. If I'm missing something here let me know.....that has been known to happen.

[Drac]

molding press? do tell! and nice work on your holsters, btw.

[broncobuster]

just an idea what i do is wrap the gun in seran wrap it forms to the gun you get better form to the gun that way if you use the gun to make your pattern.

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

molding press? do tell! and nice work on your holsters, btw.

Thanks. Let me show you a condensed version of how I mold my holsters.

1. Cut the pattern out, glue it, edge it, and mark the stitch lines.

2. Stitch the lines.

3. Wet the leather to prepare it for shaping and insert the dummy gun.

4. Place it in the molding press (mine is a twelve ton hydraulic jack with two 3/8" steel plates holding 1" thick peices of 40 durometer natural gum rubber)

to be continued......

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

5. SQUISH!!

6. Now you can see the basic lines of the gun. Some people stop right here.

7. If you want a sharper look, chase the lines with a boning tool.

8. Dry and finish your holster however you normally do.

The end

[Drac]

sweet! thanks! I'm sure everyone else will appreciate the tutorial too.

[skip]

Just a couple more questions, where did you get the Press did you make that yourself? or is an expensive purchase from another company? it looks like with a couple of modifactions it could be a clicker also. if it is your own design would you mind sharing the build up of the press itself? and the list of parts needed. BTW nice tutorial of doing a holster. I must say by doing it the way you outlined seams like a short process and very quick and straight forward. Thanks for sharing!

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

I got the press from Grizzly Tools, and the steel plates from a local steel supplier. A good buddy helped me weld them together. The rubber came from Mcmaster-Carr. I don't use clicker dies since everything I build is hand cut/custom made. If I decide to use clicker dies in the future I will get a cutting board to place on the bottom and some cotter pins to make the rubber pads easily detachable, instead of unscrewing bolts to take them out. Any other questions, just let me know.

[CMK]

Where do you the "fake" guns?

[Drac]

cmk

http://blueguns.com/ has a list of places that carry their items.

[Jordan]

price varys as much as ten dollars on blue guns so shopping around is a good thing.

[Randyc]

Drac

I purchased my press/clicker through weaverleather.com The steel plates are already welded to the press and Weaver sells the clicker pads. I think I have around $300.00 in the set up not including the gum rubber molding pads from Mcmaster-Carr. You do need a federal tax number to buy from Weaver.

Randy

[Drac]

randy

yeah, I've got their catalog and have seen their press. thought about getting it, but I gotta find or update me tax i.d. since it's texas. will probably jsut have me roomie make me one since he does metal work ( http://virginiron.com/ ).

[Shorts]

BUMP - excellent info that doesn't go out of style

[Echo4V]

I wonder if a 12 ton press is necessary? What would be the smallest strenght press that you folks would suggest using for molding. Also, would this process hurt an actual pistol or magazine? Obviously I wouldn't want to put 12 tons of pressure on a real pistol but do you really use the full 12 tons?

David

[Shorts]

I wonder if a 12 ton press is necessary? What would be the smallest strenght press that you folks would suggest using for molding. Also, would this process hurt an actual pistol or magazine? Obviously I wouldn't want to put 12 tons of pressure on a real pistol but do you really use the full 12 tons?

David

Some makers use their press, on the removal of the gum pads, as a clicker.

[Echo4V]

Assuming you weren't interested in using it as a clicker, what's the smallest press you could get away with just for the moldings. I know it's just a guess but what would you be comfortable with?

[Shorts]

Assuming you weren't interested in using it as a clicker, what's the smallest press you could get away with just for the moldings. I know it's just a guess but what would you be comfortable with?

Using blue guns, even real guns, a hydraulic press isn't used to max capacity. It will crush. A few here have worn out blue guns IIRC. And I wouldn't want to be the one to destroy a real gun.

I can venture to guess that 110lbs is minimum. Because, at the moment, I use some pads and backing boards and I am the press

You can even use a binder book press if you wanted. Those are available here and there. Use your discretion when determining how much force you apply, it doesn't need to be huge. As I mentioned, I use my own body weight right now. A press setup would just add a bit of class to my workroom lol Find one that works for you as far as side goes.

[JRB]

What is a good substitute for durometer natural gum rubber when making your own press?

[woolfe]

I keep injuring my thumbs from pressing to hard. I've decided I can't wait any longer to get a set up like this. Is this the correct rubber pads to use http://www.mcmaster.com/#8633k63/=1zk09d...

I found http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...Itemnumber=1666 on craigslist.

Thank you guys soooooo much for posting this kind of information!

[Lobo]

Clicker dies? Never owned one. Multi-ton presses? Never used one.

Just an old-fashioned guy here, patterning every piece by hand, cutting every piece by hand, assembling every piece by hand, fitting every piece by hand.

You younger folks make an old grampa-man like me feel older than I should! I've only shipped 16 items this week, and I only have 22 orders in production right now, thinking about how much of my holiday weekend I will need to spend in the shop working.

My goodness, if I invest a few thousand in clicker dies, then a few thousand more in a clicker press, then a few thousand more in a press to form my holsters, why I might cut my production time down from 40-45 minutes (per unit produced) to who knows what?

I take orders for one week. Then I spend a week cutting each piece (by hand), assembling each piece (by hand), sewing each piece. Then I spend a few hours dying everything, in separate processes based upon colors desired. Then I spend a few hours fitting each piece to the handgun it is intended for. Then I spend a few hours each day for a few days in the finishing process (oiling and final surface finishes).

So far, my customers seem to be quite happy with a 2 to 3 week turnaround time on orders. So far, I haven't spent a dime on clicker dies, clicker presses, forming presses, etc, etc, etc.

So, you may call me old-fashioned, and you'd be quite right. You may call me old school, and you'd be right. You can call me anything you like, but you might just have to call me long-distance because this little business of mine is making money every day and my wife likes to travel!

Why make simple things so complicated?