Head Knife Handle Replacement? What Would You Do?

[glockanator]

You could always add a leather disk knife handle to it like on the K Bar style knifes the USMC used back in the day.

www.northcoastknives.com

There is a tutirol on how to do it on here if your interested.

[tostrap]

very cool idea! thanks for the suggestion!

not sure if it will work out for this one as the tang seems to be compression fit, but i'd love to try this out on something else...

You could always add a leather disk knife handle to it like on the K Bar style knifes the USMC used back in the day.

www.northcoastknives.com

There is a tutirol on how to do it on here if your interested.

[oldtimer]

I don´t think a leather disk handle is a bright idea, as the tang on your knife is too short for that,( or you´ll have to weld a longer tang to it ).

mho / Knut

[TexasJack]

First, if you replace the handle, it's no longer an "antique". On the other hand, if you FIX the handle, it's still not an antique (or at least no longer has value).

That handle is pretty badly messed up. Chances are it will not hold up. It especially won't hold up if you use the superglue or JB Weld that has been suggested. Only epoxy is any good for holding together a knife and JBWeld is about the worst epoxy there is.

When wood cracks like that, it has been subject to dampness and the inside area will not be tight. The rust on the blade would indicate the same issue. The wood can be treated with acrylic resin to keep it from getting worse, but I wouldn't recommend it.

At a minimum, the tang of the blade needs to be cleaned and then degreased.

Adhesives (glues) are NOT designed to fill in space. For that you need to have material mixed with it. Fiberglass or even sawdust can be used. Gun shops or Brownells sell an epoxy kit for glass bedding rifles that will work. It's a gel epoxy with powdered fiberglass to add to the mix.

Best would be a new wood handle, epoxy for the adhesive, and drill the whole thing through for a small pin to hold the tang tight in the handle.

[Knipper]

Excellent advice there, from TexasJack...to make this a "using" knife again, replace the handle. The products TexasJack mentioned are all good quality items. It sounded to me by your posts that you wanted to keep the original handle. But for better strength (and better looks) do as he suggests.

Knipper

quote name='TexasJack' timestamp='1318821313' post='217264']

First, if you replace the handle, it's no longer an "antique". On the other hand, if you FIX the handle, it's still not an antique (or at least no longer has value).

That handle is pretty badly messed up. Chances are it will not hold up. It especially won't hold up if you use the superglue or JB Weld that has been suggested. Only epoxy is any good for holding together a knife and JBWeld is about the worst epoxy there is.

When wood cracks like that, it has been subject to dampness and the inside area will not be tight. The rust on the blade would indicate the same issue. The wood can be treated with acrylic resin to keep it from getting worse, but I wouldn't recommend it.

At a minimum, the tang of the blade needs to be cleaned and then degreased.

Adhesives (glues) are NOT designed to fill in space. For that you need to have material mixed with it. Fiberglass or even sawdust can be used. Gun shops or Brownells sell an epoxy kit for glass bedding rifles that will work. It's a gel epoxy with powdered fiberglass to add to the mix.

Best would be a new wood handle, epoxy for the adhesive, and drill the whole thing through for a small pin to hold the tang tight in the handle.

[tostrap]

Thanks TJ and Knipper!

I don't know a whole lot about antiques... does this mean that the knife is worth more 'damaged' than fixed? To be honest I bought it more to use it than not so I guess thats a moot point. I just don't like the thought of possibly 'destroying' something that has 'historical significance'?

That said I did narrow down my choice of handle wood and am trying to make sure I have all the parts and tools to do this... any suggestions/hints regarding fitting the blade into the handle would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks again!

[bruce johnson]

My thoughts on it - fix it up to be safe to use. If that means a new handle - enjoy the time spent making it and then use it the rest of your life. There are other makers who are probably more historical than Rose. Rose knives are not particularly rare. They were a production company and as far as I know the only leather tools they made were round knives. Their big deal was masonary tools. I am sure they probably sold some directly, but CS Osborne had Rose knives as a listed item in his catalog. Rose knives are really good. I like them a bunch. Make a handle that is commensurate and somebody's grandkid will be cutting with that knife.

[tostrap]

***edit*** - i just found more info on 'scandanavian' or hidden tang handles... and drilling/rasping methods... this looks like the construction that was originally used on this blade... maybe i'll stick to this method.

Thanks for the clarification Bruce.... much appreciated!

On a side/related note... from the tutorials i've found on hidden tang knives it seems that the handle must be split and hollowed out for the tang of the knife to fit in to... on the original handle it seems that the handle is drilled out and the tang inserted in. Can anyone confirm that the handle can be made this way (drilled from the top as opposed to split and glued back together)? i don't have a ban saw... i do have a mitre saw, which could be an option, but the blade is quite thick...

thanks!

Edited October 28, 2011 by tostrap

[gtwister09]

Would certainly agree with Bruce's assessment of Rose. I have purchased a couple of them with messed up handles and another without a handle. Others have given you good advice on cleaning and use of proper adhesives.

"(drilled from the top as opposed to split and glued back together) " . Drilling from the top of the handle is not done. Originally these were only drilled out and things like epoxy weren't used. They were press fits so they were drilled out a little tight and it was also the reason for these ferrules. A fit that is too tight will crack a wooden handle. However it will be advantageous to utilize new techniques like epoxy, pins, bolsters, etc...

In order to have a hidden tang on these knives like what they originally started out with, they are drilled from the bottom (where tang enters handle). Generally the center is drilled out a little shy of the depth of the tang. Then the handle is set at an angle equal to the angle on the tang and that is drilled to a depth that is again shy of the original depth. Some additional stepped holes are drilled out back towards the center hole. Need to make sure that the drilled holes that you make as you approach the hole DO NOT exceed or encroach into the wall of the first drilled angled hole. Next the angle is flipped to the other side and the process is repeated. In order to remove the places where the drill bit left some material between holes, you will have to clean the edges with a knife or other sharp item. If you have some round files/riflers that will not exceed the diameter of the bit you use then you may use them as well . A Dremel or other type rotary tool could also be used for the cleanup with the caveat of making sure that the tool used is smaller than the diameter of the drill bit. This will give you an angled hidden tanged hole.

A couple of things to consider is that if you are using a press fit then choose a drill bit slightly smaller than the thickness of the tang material. Likewise you would make the holes slightly undersized as well to accommodate a pressed fit. On the other side if you are using an epoxy (not JB-Weld) then you will need to use a larger drill bit to accommodate the epoxy. Likewise the depth will be slightly oversized.

Hope that helps. You can pin it as well.

Regards,

Ben

Edited October 28, 2011 by gtwister09