Chavez Report post Posted October 16, 2011 Hi! I'm completely new to leathercraft and I have just finished carving my 3rd project. The leather (4oz) seems to stretch around the tooled areas, deforming the leather piece. I've seem somebody advising to use rubber cement to glue the piece to some cardboard before tooling to stop the stretch. Is "rubber cement" the same thing as PVA glue? Are there any other easy ways to stop leather from stretching? Thank you! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DuaneBallard Report post Posted October 16, 2011 I like to use clear shipping tape double thick on the backside of the leather. Hi! I'm completely new to leathercraft and I have just finished carving my 3rd project. The leather (4oz) seems to stretch around the tooled areas, deforming the leather piece. I've seem somebody advising to use rubber cement to glue the piece to some cardboard before tooling to stop the stretch. Is "rubber cement" the same thing as PVA glue? Are there any other easy ways to stop leather from stretching? Thank you! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chavez Report post Posted October 17, 2011 Thanks! Would any packaging tape do the job? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
drphil Report post Posted October 17, 2011 (edited) Hey Chavez, Here is a link to a similar topic which should provide you with some more information. Click Here http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28552 Edited October 17, 2011 by drphil Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
terrymac Report post Posted October 17, 2011 My experience has been that 3M packing tape is the only one that will not a residue on the back of the leather. Other brands that I have tried seem to leave "sticky" on the leather. If possible, I put on the packing tape and then rubber cement the tape and stick on plexiglass. You really don't get any distortion doing it this way, just doesn't work on belts. Hope this helps, Terry Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chavez Report post Posted October 17, 2011 Thank you all for the replies! I've got some brown tape but it seems to leave glue marks on the surface it's stuck to. Is this the 3m tape yveryone is talking about? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clear-Packing-Packaging-Tape-Scotch-3M-6-Rolls-66m-/280319358507?pt=UK_Packaging_Materials&hash=item414455f62b Thanks again!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
terrymac Report post Posted October 18, 2011 Looks like it. Terry Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Double U Leather Report post Posted October 25, 2011 I cast my vote for double thick packing tape. The tape I use does leave a sticky residue on the back side, but I line everything I do so that isn't much of a problem. I kinda see it as making my Barge last longer....LOL. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chavez Report post Posted October 30, 2011 Well, tooled a bookmarker and a coaster today and the 3m tape helped a lot. I only got about 1-1.5mm stretch instead of 2-3 so thank you all for the advice!! Chavez Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
busted Report post Posted November 4, 2011 (edited) Hi! I'm completely new to leathercraft and I have just finished carving my 3rd project. The leather (4oz) seems to stretch around the tooled areas, deforming the leather piece. I've seem somebody advising to use rubber cement to glue the piece to some cardboard before tooling to stop the stretch. Is "rubber cement" the same thing as PVA glue? Are there any other easy ways to stop leather from stretching? Thank you! The most effective way to stop leather from stretching is to stop using leather that stretches. This will eliminate all headaches. Don't use the neck of a hide don't use the belly of the hide sometimes the flesh side will have blood veins showing it indicates a loose top grain in some instances. The best hides are finished on top and back side of the hide and they are split to a specific thickness 6 to 8, 9, 10 or 12 ounce and so own. If you don't want crappy projects don't use crappy leather. Edited November 4, 2011 by busted Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinyL Report post Posted December 12, 2011 I find contact paper to be very effective and you can cover a large area very quickly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrdabeetle Report post Posted December 13, 2011 I've been using masking tape. I just overlap it a bit and pull it off in one go. It doesn't stick to the flesh side very well, so it comes off easily and doesn't pull up the fuzzies. It is also the cheapest tape I could find. Storing your leather flat will keep the leather from wanting to roll as well. I don't have much space to store whole sides, so I cut my patterns out straight away (the ones I use most often), then store the cut parts and remnants flat until needed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RichardCollmorgen Report post Posted December 13, 2011 I'm working on a belt now and tried 3M clear packing tape for the first time. It doesn't want to stay stuck to the cased leather. I put it on dry. I was trying it because I usually use rubber cement to stick the leather to a piece of thin acrylic but it leaves a residue when I remove it. Any suggestions? Maybe my tape is not as sticky as it should be. I bought 3M to make sure that I was getting "good" tape. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northmount Report post Posted December 13, 2011 I had a small item to tool a short time ago and decided it would be a good idea to glue it to a piece of hardboard to make it easier to handle. I used rubber cement ... used to the kind that stationery stores sell, and peels off nicely. Well, I used Tandy Rubber Cement by Barge! (Craftsman #S-5274) It does not peel off easily. I had to slice it off the board when I was finished. A couple drips on my desk didn't peel or roll off nicely either. So if anyone is intending to use rubber cement for a temporary application, get the stationery store kind. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pabloz Report post Posted December 13, 2011 (edited) My favorite "rubber cement" has always been the Elmers brand used for photo mounting.You can get it almost anywhere....even Walgreens. Edited December 13, 2011 by pabloz Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
terrymac Report post Posted December 14, 2011 I'm working on a belt now and tried 3M clear packing tape for the first time. It doesn't want to stay stuck to the cased leather. I put it on dry. I was trying it because I usually use rubber cement to stick the leather to a piece of thin acrylic but it leaves a residue when I remove it. Any suggestions? Maybe my tape is not as sticky as it should be. I bought 3M to make sure that I was getting "good" tape. 3M is about the best, although I got a roll a couple of months ago that didn't stick real well. Got a new roll and it is fine. Terry Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BarryKing Report post Posted January 24, 2012 Here is the way we have been doing it at King's for about 20 years: Try casing the leather first. This is by soaking in water for a few minutes then stretching with a glass slicker(or wood). Rub in all directions on most projects, on belts just go down the length a few times. After doing this, rubber cement it to plexiglass or lexon(basicly the same thing). Use Barge RUBBER Cememt, not Barge Cement. The rubber cement is in a light blue and white can, not the yellow and red can. You don't need to glue or tape belts if you case them properly, but the thin leather is a must on most small items. It doesn't matter what leather you are using, it is going to stretch when stamping if you do not prestretch it, that is what the slicker does. Tape will work, but the leather should be dry when applying. This is why we like to use rubber cement. When you apply it to wet leather, it sticks just well enough to hold it to the plexi, but still rubs off nicely after the leather drying out. Just giving you another option than tape. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chief31794 Report post Posted February 15, 2012 I use the thickest shelf paper I can find, the stuff wives buy to line shelves in kitchen cabinets. It works great for me, easy to cut, sticks well and comes off with no residue. My goods don't stretch with shelf paper. I keep a roll on my wall in the shop. Ken Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites