Holster Stitch Lines

[malabar]

Folks,

New guy decloaking here with another question: How do you guys mark your stitch lines on your holsters?

This is the part I have the most trouble with. My current procedure uses a hardboard template for the particular model of the gun. I place the template on the leather, draw out the pattern, and then cut a groove on top of the line. But I'm still having a very hard time getting my lines just right, in relation to where I want the gun to be positioned within the holster. I've made a couple that were too tight for the gun they were designed for.

And if the template slips slightly, I leave a mark on the surface of the leather that won't be covered by the stitch line.

How do you guys get your lines so perfect?

thanks for the help.

tk

[randypants]

Folks,

New guy decloaking here with another question: How do you guys mark your stitch lines on your holsters?

This is the part I have the most trouble with. My current procedure uses a hardboard template for the particular model of the gun. I place the template on the leather, draw out the pattern, and then cut a groove on top of the line. But I'm still having a very hard time getting my lines just right, in relation to where I want the gun to be positioned within the holster. I've made a couple that were too tight for the gun they were designed for.

And if the template slips slightly, I leave a mark on the surface of the leather that won't be covered by the stitch line.

How do you guys get your lines so perfect?

thanks for the help.

tk

cut the groove on the back(inside) of the leather. if you mess up, no one will see.

Edited November 2, 2011 by randypants

[JoelR]

First off, I feel my stitch lines are far from perfect so take my advice for what you paid for it.

I have tried to pre-stitch my holsters over the years with mixed results. What I do now is stitch the top of the slide (if needed), conservitivly glue the trigger side, wet the leather, partially form the holster (just enought to take up any major slack in the pocket, and then mark lightly the resulting frame line in the wet leather. Allow the holster to dry completely and then run the stitching grove slightly tighter than marked on the verticals (along the lower portion of the trigger and the length of the slide) and exaclty where I marked on the horizontal (the front of the trigger guard).

Still takes a holster or two to get the feel for the lines so the pocket is not too loose or too tight, but once you get the feel, it works for every handgun and you don't have to try and figure frame width and cylinder takeup if setting the lines before forming. Some guys/gals don't like having to wet the holster twice but I have not found any issues in doing so. If you are really paranoid about wetting it twice you could probably do it when you dye the holster if you dye once reinforcements are assembled but I try to dye each pice before any assembly.

[particle]

I've found it easiest to divide the thickness of the gun in half, then add the thickness of your hide (usually about 1/8"). That will be the offset of your stitch line when you initially create your pattern. Then, using a scrap piece of leather, I build a mock-up of the holster to test the fit. Usually the stitch line will need a little adjustment around the trigger guard area. Since you now have a mock-up, it's easy to visually adjust the stitch line on your pattern by looking at what could have been adjusted on the mock-up - "tighter here, looser there", etc.

If your pattern is slipping, try inserting two thumb tacks in places that will later be removed, such as the two belt slots on a Pancake, or the front/back faces of the belt slot on an Avenger (when it's laid out flat).

[Big O]

I draw the stitch lines on my template.

I not only use the template to mark the leather for cutting, but also place it on top of the cut piece, and then poke holes along the stitch lines, into the leather beneath, to mark the line location. Then I use a freestyle groover to connect the dots.

I just use measurements to get the stitch lines as close as possible. They're not perfect, but close enough to be functional and reasonably attractive.

Edited November 2, 2011 by Big O

[markush]

I do it the same as Big O...easiest way i could think of to have everything line up.

[katsass]

I've found it easiest to divide the thickness of the gun in half, then add the thickness of your hide (usually about 1/8"). That will be the offset of your stitch line when you initially create your pattern. Then, using a scrap piece of leather, I build a mock-up of the holster to test the fit. Usually the stitch line will need a little adjustment around the trigger guard area. Since you now have a mock-up, it's easy to visually adjust the stitch line on your pattern by looking at what could have been adjusted on the mock-up - "tighter here, looser there", etc.

If your pattern is slipping, try inserting two thumb tacks in places that will later be removed, such as the two belt slots on a Pancake, or the front/back faces of the belt slot on an Avenger (when it's laid out flat).

FWIW from the grumpy old guy; I do just as particle does. It has worked out to be about the most fool proof way of doing it for me. Mike

[malabar]

Folks,

thanks for all the replies and ideas! My specific questions are below....

tk

[malabar]

cut the groove on the back(inside) of the leather. if you mess up, no one will see.

Randy,

So then your bottom stitches are on the front face of your holster? Or do I misunderstand?

tk

[malabar]

I do it the same as Big O...easiest way i could think of to have everything line up.

Thanks so much for posting this. It's precisely the kind of information I was looking for.

Can you clarify a couple of things for me?

-- This appears to be for an IWB holster. Are the top and bottom pieces the same size? On mine, the top is substantially larger, so that the back stays flat.

-- So do you make up a new template every time you make a holster, or do you get more than one use out of each?

Thanks for all of the help!

tk

[markush]

Thanks so much for posting this. It's precisely the kind of information I was looking for.

Can you clarify a couple of things for me?

-- This appears to be for an IWB holster. Are the top and bottom pieces the same size? On mine, the top is substantially larger, so that the back stays flat.

-- So do you make up a new template every time you make a holster, or do you get more than one use out of each?

Thanks for all of the help!

tk

It is actually a copy of the Milt Sparks Axiom which is an OWB. Yes the front a rear are the same except for the little bit of a sweat shield on the rear piece. As long as it's the same gun I can re-use that template. But with a different gun almost everything would change so it would be a new template. I'm just making holsters for myself so a new template for the few guns I have is not a big deal. I know nothing about putting together a flat backed, molded front holster so I really can't help there, sorry.

[randypants]

Randy,

So then your bottom stitches are on the front face of your holster? Or do I misunderstand?

tk

mark and punch your holes from the back side, then use a free stitch groover to connect the dots. a ruler will help with this on the straight lines. your top and bottom stitch(front and back) should look exactly the same if you're doing a saddle stitch.

also, you could leave out the groove all together. if you do it right, it can look good.

Randy

[NoahL]

I've played around with it but now I use particle's method of measuring and using half the thickness of the gun, plus the thickness of the leather, then I set a compass to that measurement and trace around the gun. Tends to work out pretty well, with only a little adjusting.