Fiebing's Antique Finish

[Mojo66]

I got a pot of Fiebing's antique finish in medium brown the other day and I seem to be getting really inconsistent results with it. Sometimes I use it and it comes out a nice brown colour as expected, and sometimes it goes more or less black! I often get dark blobs with it too that I can't remove. I apply it by brush straight onto the leather, then rub it with a soft cloth. Am I doing something wrong? This photo shows a dark stain on the right where it blobbed, and a few marks along the top edge. I've gone over it with a brown dye to cover it up a little, but I didn't really want to do this. (However, I quite like the effect!) Anyone any suggestions on what to do to avoid this, or what I can do if it happens again?

Edited November 16, 2011 by Mojo66

[terrymac]

Are you applying a "resist" to the leather before the antique? It is awfully difficult to apply antique to a naked piece of leather, and get an even look. The other thing that might help is to use wool rather than a rag. You can get down in the cracks and other places a whole lot better. I used a rag for years, finally wised up and went to wool skin. You need to rub the antique on in a circular motion, and rub it off. Get you some thin rubber gloves because there is no way of applying or removing without getting it all over you. Hope this helps,

Terry

[Mojo66]

I usually just apply it straight to the leather, I have Resolene and Super Sheen, would either of these work before I used the antique? I usually do apply it in a circular motion, and with gloves, otherwise I look like I'm on 60 a day!

[terrymac]

Can't answer about Resolene or Super Sheen. I am old school and use Neatlac exclusively, now available as Clearlac or Wyosheen. This is the old time proven method, and if you want to see how it looks, check out some recent postings by either Hidepounder or Leatherrookie. Clearlac is available thru Springfield Leather and Wyosheen thru Sheridan Leather. Both are advertisers on this forum.

Terry

[TwinOaks]

The resolene and super sheen WILL act as a resist, but I think using the lacquer resist works better. When I've tried it with the acrylic finishes, it seemed to pick up more out of the crevices than with the lacquer. For a really fantastic tutorial on using antique paste, check out this video:

[dragonspit]

The resolene and super sheen WILL act as a resist, but I think using the lacquer resist works better. When I've tried it with the acrylic finishes, it seemed to pick up more out of the crevices than with the lacquer. For a really fantastic tutorial on using antique paste, check out this video:

that was an awesome tute. thanks for posting it. as a noobie, been reading over and over the processes and different ways to do it, but to watch it done methodically while listening to the demonstrator really puts it all together for many reasons. very very nice.

[Mojo66]

That's a great tutorial, however neither Wyosheen or Neatlac is available here and apparently it's illegal to import them. I can get Saddle Lac, Tan Kote and Leathersheen, all by Fiebings. Will any of these do?

[TwinOaks]

Saddle lac will do just fine....but don't spray it on if you get it in an aerosol can. First spray onto wool scrap, then apply (as in the vid) to the leather.

[Mojo66]

Brilliant, thanks for that, I'll give it a go! Just a thought, but I'd be using it on belts and guitar straps, is it fairly flexible or will it crack with any movement?

Edited November 18, 2011 by Mojo66

[TwinOaks]

If it's put on quickly and lightly - a thin coat - it should be fine. A heavy coat will crack when flexed.

[silverwingit]

One caveat regarding Acrylic Resolene and antique finish.

The last step in applying antique finish is sealing the finish so it won't rub off. There are many sealants you can use to do this, so on my first antiqued project I used Resolene directly on top of the antique finish.

BIG MISTAKE!

I was horrified when I saw the Resolene dissolve the antique finish out of the tooling impressions and spread it out all over my project. RUINED!

If you notice in that Keith Valley tutorial, he uses Tan Kote to seal the antique and then Resolene for a permanent waterproof seal on top of that. Too bad he didn't mention why.

Bottom line: NEVER uses Acrylic Resolene directly on top of Feibing's Antique Paste Finish!

Michelle

Edited November 28, 2015 by silverwingit

[NVLeatherWorx]

You can also apply the Leather Balm with Atom Wax, also from Fiebing's, before applying the Resolene. Biggest mistake that is most commonly made though is not allowing your finishes, any of them, to dry properly before moving on to the next one. Let it dry for no less than 8 hours but better at 12 hours before you give it the next level of finishing. This ensures minimal to zero run or rub off and you will keep much more of your Antique into the cuts and contrast areas which is what you are trying to do. All too often there is a rush to get it done and move on to the next project but this stuff takes time. Besides, while it is drying you can move on to the next project anyway. Patience isn't just a virtue here, it is mandatory within our trade.

Have a great day.

[dfrensdorff]

On Youtube Bruce Cheaney also has a very good, short tutorial on antiquing, a tooled dog collar in this case. Basically......two coats of Tan-Kote or Wyosheen.let dry......Eco-Flo gel antique (Tandy)......let dry for a little bit (he puts it in front of a fan).........then rub in another coat of Tan-Kote which rubs off some of the antiquing on non tooled areas, but keeps it in the tooled areas nicely. After this dries, another Tan-Kote if needed. I have recently used this "system" on a set of spur leathers and it turned out well.......Good luck