mrfixit Report post Posted December 5, 2011 Well, just to see for myself, I ordered some horsebutts. I hope to get some with figure in them. They are, as I guess most are, hard rolled. Any advice or special precautions I need to know before they get here? Mr Fixit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JRCHolsters Report post Posted December 5, 2011 I prefer using hard rolled. I have used both types and think the hard rolled give a better finished product, IMHO. Make sure your knife is really sharp! You can hit some really hard spots from time to time. Be patient when cutting. Be sure to wet areas before stamping or punching holes, it makes it a lot easier. I find that you have to get the hide a bit wetter when forming with the hard rolled. The grain is really tight. The ends are a bit thinner, be sure to check the thickness, to match the piece you are cutting. The thinner ends are handy for some reinforced areas that are getting exotic overlays. Just use common sense here. I dye the cut pieces before molding, but give them a second coat after molding. The dye never seems to be quite as dark after the molding. Hope this helps and remember, your mileage may vary. Have fun! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Big O Report post Posted December 5, 2011 Some horse butts I've gotten have been a bit brittle. I've had some pieces crack when I bent them. So, now, I inspect my pieces carefully, and if they seem a bit too stiff or dry, I'll soften them up with a coat of neatsfoot oil on both sides. I really really like horsehide. While it's a bit harder to cut, it seems like it cuts smoother. I find it actually easier to edge than cowhide. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Steven Kelley Report post Posted December 5, 2011 I agree with the above comments. For me, it cuts easier, edges easier, has a much smoother surface on both sides, and you get some really nice "grain" features on most pieces. One thing I've noticed is that you have to let it soak in water a lot longer before forming. I usually let cowhide soak about 5 - 10 seconds and it's totally saturated. Horsehide I let soak for several minutes, and it still doesn't saturate like cowhide. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rayban Report post Posted December 6, 2011 (edited) Heads up on gluing flesh to flesh...best to rough up the surface a bit with coarse sandpaper....and even then it's been a challenge to me. I don't believe it's my glue or technique.....when I glue horse flesh to cow flesh I get a really good bond.....then go back to horse to horse....not so good. I've seen the edges of belts start separating after only a few days.....then go to a cow liner, and problem solved. It's been a real head scratcher for me. Edited December 6, 2011 by Rayban Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sixer Report post Posted December 7, 2011 The last two holster I've made have been OWB with horsehide... I love it! The grain pattern is pretty sweet. Burnishing is almost too easy. The final product is TOUGH. I might just switch to using horse all the time! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Big O Report post Posted December 7, 2011 Just made this one. Dye is a mixture of Chocolate Brown and Red. We won't talk about me screwing up the stitch line BAD..... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
