Sanding Holster Edges

[Abram]

I have what I think is a simple problem. After sanding the edges of my holster it appears as though the finished side is left untouched and appears as a flap of leather, if this makes any sense. I have been just tilting the holster to brush this off but I do not like the look. Should I just leave this and use my edger on it? I have tried slowing down some to no avail.

Thanks for any and all help

Edited December 15, 2011 by Abram

[marine mp]

ABRAM,

Take a small edger and cut that flap off then wet the edge or rub some solid saddle soap or parrafin wax into it and rub it with a deer antler. Anymore, I just glue the dges close enough so they don't have to be sanded and then edge 'em, slick-'em up then finish it. Works great. Good-on-ya. Semper-fi Mike

Edited December 15, 2011 by marine mp

[katsass]

I have what I think is a simple problem. After sanding the edges of my holster it appears as though the finished side is left untouched and appears as a flap of leather, if this makes any sense. I have been just tilting the holster to brush this off but I do not like the look. Should I just leave this and use my edger on it? I have tried slowing down some to no avail.

Thanks for any and all help

Abram, from the grumpy old guy; I make most all of my holsters from two layers of 4/5 or 5/6 or sometimes one of each. I bond then together of their face sides, cut, then sand to their final shape. This often leads to that little flap hanging off on one side or the other. As the other Mike said, run your edger along, trim that puppy off and go to burnishing. Mike

Edited December 15, 2011 by katsass

[Abram]

Thanks fellas. I have been working on getting the two pieces cut as close as possible to one another and on several occasions I have managed to do this but I find a little sanding helps to touch up the oops made by using a utility knife to cut the pattern. I will give this a try on my next project.

One more question, what size edger do you fellas prefer for accomplishing this or does it really matter?

Thanks again

[marine mp]

Abram, The higher the edger (beveler) number, the more leather it removes. If you have a thin piece of leather, use a #1 or 2, tThe thicker leather, use a higher # beveler. The idea is to make a rounded edge and not a squared off side. So use the # beveler that will make the radius to accomodate the rounded edge. Hope I 'splained it well enough. The other Mike may be able to add some intel to this explanation to help complete the thot. Semper-fi Mike

[Abram]

The only edger I have now is the one that I bought from Tandy leather and I am not even sure what size it is. I am using 8/9 leather and perhaps that is too thick for a pancake style holster but it is all I got at the moment. I may take a trip to tandy to see what else they have.

Thanks

Edited December 15, 2011 by Abram

[marine mp]

Abram, One last side note on the leather weight (8/9). My thot is that a lot of holster makers use leather that is to heavy for the job at hand. We are just trying to make a pocket to carry a hand weapon, not a .105 Howitzer. That being said, the Tandy's leather will loose some of its bulk when you comprdess the fibers down on the flesh side. Also. after you wet mold the piece in the holster, it will loose a shade more and prolly end up being a true 8 oz. for a total of 16 oz. I make my holsters out 6/7 or the heavier weapons (1911 or Judges) out of 8/9. Just my thots. Semper-fi Mike

[Abram]

I have been working on one for a Springfield XD 45 service and someone else had suggested the heavier leather due to the guns weight.

I had thought that if I ever did one for say a small 38 revolver I would reduce the thickness of the leather to say a 6/7 but right now I do not have a small revolver so that is a project for a later time

Thanks Mike

[katsass]

Abram, The higher the edger (beveler) number, the more leather it removes. If you have a thin piece of leather, use a #1 or 2, tThe thicker leather, use a higher # beveler. The idea is to make a rounded edge and not a squared off side. So use the # beveler that will make the radius to accomodate the rounded edge. Hope I 'splained it well enough. The other Mike may be able to add some intel to this explanation to help complete the thot. Semper-fi Mike

Abram, I use (mostly) a #4 edger, maybe a #5 on my heavier holsters. I do make almost all of my holsters a bit differently than most others do, however. I use either 4/5 or 5/6 oz for all holsters, BUT I use two layers bonded together on their flesh sides. With those two weights I can make up stuff of around 8oz, or 9oz or 10 oz after finishing. They go together similar to the outer edges of a pancake holster --- smooth on each side. This forms a very firm holster, more so than a single layer of similar weight. It does entail a great deal more stitching though, as all edges must be stitched. As Mike indicated, some feel that my holsters are a bit overbuilt. Mike

[marine mp]

Katsass (Mike)

I digress at times in my explanations and meant no thing pointed at your work, in particular. Knowing full well that you've forgotten more than I could hope to know about this leatherworking business. I've even started using a thin double layer of skin when I do a inlay, due to your toutiledge. So, I can stand and do stand corrected, as your excellent work has been viewed by myself as second to none. Overbuilt or no, you, Sir, are one of the standards by which I learn and measure my work by. Thanks for the lessons. Semper-fi MIke

[Lobo]

Going back to the original topic, what some might view as a problem others may find to be an advantage.

When dressing edges I work the leather while it is damp using a drum sander to dress down each edge. This always results in a thin "flap" forming along the smooth sides of the leather, which can be cut off very neatly with the edge beveler (and residual dampness in the leather makes this work very easy to do).

For pancake-style holsters I find that the beveling can be done all at one time, right after dressing the edges on the sander. For envelope-style holsters I do the beveling prior to assembly, then again after the edges have been dressed on the sander.

Another advantage of working the leather while it is damp is that there is no dust in the air during sanding. The damp residue drops immediately to the bench top where it can be brushed into a trash can at the end of the day and the air in the shop can be breathed without irritation.

I cut the leather when it is dry, assemble and stitch while dry. From that point onward the piece is damp until after it has been wet-formed and completely dried. Dyes can also be applied while the leather is damp, and dye penetration is enhanced a bit (in my experience).

Please note that when I say "damp" I don't mean "soaked", just slightly moistened with water.

[Abram]

The one thing I do not do is moisten the leather prior to sanding, I have read about others doing. I am going to modify my design and try some of these ideas now that I see I was doing it wrong to begin with. Will moistening it with a sponge be sufficient for the purpose?

I never thought about using 4/5 or 5/6 to make my pancake holster, I just bought some 8/9 and went to town. Now I have an itch to try making a pancake holster from thinner leather. I bet forming it is easier.

Thanks fellas. I know this has probably been discussed here but I could not find it so I really appreciate all of you taking the time to respond.

Cheers

[particle]

I never thought about using 4/5 or 5/6 to make my pancake holster, I just bought some 8/9 and went to town. Now I have an itch to try making a pancake holster from thinner leather. I bet forming it is easier.

I assume you're referring to Katsass' post saying he uses 4/5 or 5/6. Note that he is building lined holsters, so he's still working with 1/8" & 1/4" thick leather once it's glued up.

[Abram]

I assume you're referring to Katsass' post saying he uses 4/5 or 5/6. Note that he is building lined holsters, so he's still working with 1/8" & 1/4" thick leather once it's glued up.

Yes sir I was and I was unaware he was making a lined holster, thank you for pointing that out.

Edited December 16, 2011 by Abram

[katsass]

Katsass (Mike)

I digress at times in my explanations and meant no thing pointed at your work, in particular. Knowing full well that you've forgotten more than I could hope to know about this leatherworking business. I've even started using a thin double layer of skin when I do a inlay, due to your toutiledge. So, I can stand and do stand corrected, as your excellent work has been viewed by myself as second to none. Overbuilt or no, you, Sir, are one of the standards by which I learn and measure my work by. Thanks for the lessons. Semper-fi MIke

MP Mike, first off, you're gonna make me blush (and that ain't too easy). Thanks for the compliments, but I take no offense at your comments in any way. each of us has our own way of doing things, and if they work for us, so be it.

As a side line, I'm from the web-foot side of the Dept. Of the Navy, however i worked with a number of Marines while in air-crew (helicopter) training --- and in a few spots during the situation in the sun and fun capitol of South East Asia. In '64 I made 2nd class petty officer while in San Diego, before my second trip to Nam, and, at that time was the youngest 2nd class in the fleet. With a couple of Marines and another web-foot, I went to MCRD to celebrate my promotion. I was last in line as the five of us hit the entrance of the Acey-Duecy Club (it was the best enlisted club in San Diego). An old Gunny was checking ID's and when he saw me he told me to get the hell out of there because I was too damnd young to make E-5. I tried to show him my new ID and told him I had just made rate --- he didn't want to listen. Then, being about 1/2 full of liquid courage, I decided to take a poke at him --- to emphasise my point --- just as my buddies came back to look for me. They explained that my promotion was real -- that it would be written up in Navy Times, and to please forgive the fool kid for his over aggressive actions. He looked at me and told me that if I was that intent that I had been promoted, he'd let me go with his congratulations, and a comment -- "kid, be damned glad you didn't throw that fool punch". Fun and games in the old days. Mike

[marine mp]

Katsass (Mike)

I just now got back on the forum after a day and a half with one of those danged 'ole kidney stones!! I truly enjoyed the memories of your day at the Acey-Duecey Club!!!! Damned 'ole Gunnys were the death of us all!!!! Having been the last platoon to graduate MCRD Parris Island (Sept. '74) with the National Defense ribbon as Vietnam was just winding up. Although...I did catch this last one (Iraqi Freedom 2003-2004). Thanks for your service and Semper-fi MIke