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Posted

I found the best way to do that blade is to make a simple jig. You need a flat serfice, marble block works. And a steel straight edge. Hang the edge about 1/32-1/16" over the edge. Its important to check the the blade is not bent, dead flat if its a little off you can lap the back. But if is a lot off you SOOL. Now clamp the straight edge to the top about 1/16"-1/32 (match the overhang. Now work your bench stones back and forth. Start with a corse one B/C you not only need to make a bur at the edge but flatten that extra 1/32" on the top so it's one continues slope, think chisel edge. Once done with the corse stone I like to remove the bur to make things go quicker, I use a felt block but a cork or copper pipe would work too. Now work your way up to your finest stone and last debur the back with you finest stone. The trouble with most pro's is they will try and hollow gringo or convex the blade, it needs to be flat.

I did this one last summer42940d60.jpg

d0283f5d.jpg

fa53c68a.jpg

  • Members
Posted

I found the best way to do that blade is to make a simple jig. You need a flat serfice, marble block works. And a steel straight edge. Hang the edge about 1/32-1/16" over the edge. Its important to check the the blade is not bent, dead flat if its a little off you can lap the back. But if is a lot off you SOOL. Now clamp the straight edge to the top about 1/16"-1/32 (match the overhang. Now work your bench stones back and forth. Start with a corse one B/C you not only need to make a bur at the edge but flatten that extra 1/32" on the top so it's one continues slope, think chisel edge. Once done with the corse stone I like to remove the bur to make things go quicker, I use a felt block but a cork or copper pipe would work too. Now work your way up to your finest stone and last debur the back with you finest stone. The trouble with most pro's is they will try and hollow gringo or convex the blade, it needs to be flat.

I did this one last summer42940d60.jpg

d0283f5d.jpg

fa53c68a.jpg

Thanks. I had the blade professionally sharpened by a tool sharpening company so it should be good to go. What did you do to your splitter? How come it's gold and green?

Andrew

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Posted

Looking at old pictures of them I noticed that they were enameled green and the plate when I got it still had remnants of gold left on it. So I took it all apart. I used a vibration tumbler to polish all the hardware. Polished the rollers by running them in between mandrels using a sequence of fine grit wet dry paper. I used gold leaf and guided the plate. i had to take a little liberty with the paint. I did not want to just use shaker can hardware store green so I used a auto body HVLP spray gun and sprayed it with top end "house of Kolor" lacquer, this one is called "toxic green". Then I used a two stage epoxy clear coat and buffed it like you would a New car.

I'll post picks again next week as I just got word that my new blade is ready, and shipped. I have a good friend who was nice enough to make me one. I think it will be the first splinter to ever have a blade hand forged by a ABS master smith! He hand forged to out of 52100 high carbon, I was going with a more modern tool steel but thought it best to stick true to good old high carbon.<br class="Apple-interchange-newline">

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Posted

Hm... Although I'm not terribly keen on the green and gold color scheme I wouldn't mind getting the machine fully restored. Doesnanyone know of professional services that do that? I don't trust my ability in this. Thanks.

Andrew

Posted

Are you looking to get a using machine out of this, or a work of art?

If a work of art have it cleaned, powder coated, painted and photographed.

Otherwise, soak it in diesel fuel..clean it as suggested...and use it!

Just an idea!

Once believed in GOD and the DOllAR...... Hello God!

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Posted

Bay Area covers a lot of area. Where specifically are you? I used to have a machine shop in Cordelia , near Fairfield, where I did a lot of winery equipment repairs, and refurbishing. I think with some coaching , you can do this one yourself. The unit itself is very basic construction. I would look into hand polishing the roller, and shafts, then have the rest glass bead blasted to remove the rust. After that, some paint to keep the parts from rusting again in your humid air, and you are good to go. If I was still in Fairfield I would help ya out, or if ya want to visit fabulous Las Vegas NV, I can meet ya there =)

You laugh at me because I am different. I laugh at you because you are all the same.

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