snowgoose Report post Posted January 28, 2012 So, I've bought all the tools to have a try at some hand stitching ( apart from a groover, but that can wait until I have sussed the actual stitching. I just have one question quickly if anyone could assist. I bought a stitch marker ( one with 3 changeable wheels ) but how do you know which stitch count to use per inch? Now, I'm guessing this makes quite a difference to the overall appearance of the finished item. Is it just down to personal preference, or maybe something like smaller stitch count for smaller items and larger for larger, or is it down to the weight of the actual leather, or maybe something totally different? Can anyone just quickly spare 5 mins to answer me please. Regards Jake Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
katsass Report post Posted January 29, 2012 So, I've bought all the tools to have a try at some hand stitching ( apart from a groover, but that can wait until I have sussed the actual stitching. I just have one question quickly if anyone could assist. I bought a stitch marker ( one with 3 changeable wheels ) but how do you know which stitch count to use per inch? Now, I'm guessing this makes quite a difference to the overall appearance of the finished item. Is it just down to personal preference, or maybe something like smaller stitch count for smaller items and larger for larger, or is it down to the weight of the actual leather, or maybe something totally different? Can anyone just quickly spare 5 mins to answer me please. Regards Jake FWIW from the old grumpy guy; I primarily make holsters and items for shooting sports. I almost exclusively use a #6 overstitch wheel (6 stitches per inch.) --- that's what you are calling a 'stitch marker'. Actually it can (an is) used to mark your stitching holes, but possibly more importantly (IMO) is it's use after stitching to smooth out and finish your work (That's why it's called an 'OVER-stitch'). Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
snowgoose Report post Posted January 29, 2012 Thanks for the reply Mike. I can never remember what each piece of kit is called, but at least you knew what I was talking about :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gary Report post Posted January 29, 2012 So, I've bought all the tools to have a try at some hand stitching ( apart from a groover, but that can wait until I have sussed the actual stitching. I just have one question quickly if anyone could assist. I bought a stitch marker ( one with 3 changeable wheels ) but how do you know which stitch count to use per inch? Now, I'm guessing this makes quite a difference to the overall appearance of the finished item. Is it just down to personal preference, or maybe something like smaller stitch count for smaller items and larger for larger, or is it down to the weight of the actual leather, or maybe something totally different? Can anyone just quickly spare 5 mins to answer me please. Regards Jake Jake, Is it an overstitch wheel or a British stitch-marking wheel (a.k.a. pricking wheel)? It's that the two are significantly different. You can't use the British one for smoothing out the stitches. Sorry I can't give a definitive answer on stitching but the number of stitches per inch depends on a lot on the leather thickness and the end use of the product and, if it's a strap or belt, the width of the strap. I generally use 8 stitches per inch with 0.8mm thread for things like headcollars and some belts (of 3-4mm thick leather). For some bridle work (3-ish mm thick leather though some parts are thinned) I'll use 10 or 12 spi (sometimes even 14 spi if it's a fine-looking piece) with 0.4mm thread. For finer leather stuff (wallets and such) I'll use 12 or 14 spi. On really chunky stuff (like English saddle girth billets) I'll sometimes use 6 spi. Hope that provides more light than heat on the subject. Gary Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
snowgoose Report post Posted January 29, 2012 Hi Gary. Thanks for your reply. The "thing" was just sold as a stitch marker ( 3 rolls ). This is an image of it; Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
katsass Report post Posted January 29, 2012 Hi Gary. Thanks for your reply. The "thing" was just sold as a stitch marker ( 3 rolls ). Good morning, The grumpy old guy again; Gary has it right, but I knew just what you purchased --- it's an overstitch (on this side of the pond) and most likely made by Craftool, a maker of fairly good stuff 40 years ago but on the very low end of things in this day and age. These multi-taskers generally don't work out nearly as well as a good single sized tool. As I mentioned, my work is primarily with holsters and items for shooting sports, and 6 spi is a good general-use size to work with in this category. Here is an example of my hand stitching on a custom holster I made a while ago --- at 6 stitches per inch with 7 cord waxed linen thread.. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
snowgoose Report post Posted January 29, 2012 Thanks Mike. My tools were purchased in Finland, from a company who supply tools made by a company called "Ivan", who are based in Taiwan, so probably not the best of quality of tools, but I guess they are a start. They look very similar to the craftool tools. http://www.ivan.tw/Default.aspx From looking at their site, I would say they are more US rather than European influenced in their products. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gary Report post Posted January 29, 2012 Good morning, The grumpy old guy again; Gary has it right, but I knew just what you purchased --- it's an overstitch (on this side of the pond) and most likely made by Craftool, a maker of fairly good stuff 40 years ago but on the very low end of things in this day and age. These multi-taskers generally don't work out nearly as well as a good single sized tool. As I mentioned, my work is primarily with holsters and items for shooting sports, and 6 spi is a good general-use size to work with in this category. Here is an example of my hand stitching on a custom holster I made a while ago --- at 6 stitches per inch with 7 cord waxed linen thread.. Mike Jake - I'd listen to Mike. Mike - Nice holster - wish we had a larger market for gun leather in the UK I'd love an excuse to make stuff like that. Gary Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
katsass Report post Posted January 29, 2012 (edited) Jake - I'd listen to Mike. Mike - Nice holster - wish we had a larger market for gun leather in the UK I'd love an excuse to make stuff like that. Gary Gary, thanks for the compliment --- here I was saying 'good morning' to you folks and it damned near the middle of the night over there! Yes, we still have a lot of area in which we can engage in many shooting sports. There are some locations which restrict the possession of firearms, however they seem to quite a bit east of us here on the west coast of the U.S. I shoot trap, as does my son, and we both do a bit of firearms repair. I specialize in Smith & Wesson pistols and older shotguns --- my son in newer higher end shotguns. The state of Arizona (adjacent to California) still has open-carry of hand guns which can be a bit disconcerting to folks from the eastern states or from 'across the pond'. As a retired peace officer I have an almost lifetime concealed carry permit. The holster is done in very dark brown with an inlay of ostrich shin leather. Mike Edited January 29, 2012 by katsass Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gary Report post Posted January 30, 2012 Gary, thanks for the compliment --- here I was saying 'good morning' to you folks and it damned near the middle of the night over there! Yes, we still have a lot of area in which we can engage in many shooting sports. There are some locations which restrict the possession of firearms, however they seem to quite a bit east of us here on the west coast of the U.S. I shoot trap, as does my son, and we both do a bit of firearms repair. I specialize in Smith & Wesson pistols and older shotguns --- my son in newer higher end shotguns. The state of Arizona (adjacent to California) still has open-carry of hand guns which can be a bit disconcerting to folks from the eastern states or from 'across the pond'. As a retired peace officer I have an almost lifetime concealed carry permit. The holster is done in very dark brown with an inlay of ostrich shin leather. Mike Mike, I've liked all your work that I've seen and your maker's mark always makes me smile. I think the UK fireaarms situation has been done to death in other topics but I'm looking into getting a .410 shotgun or a 22LR just to get rid of some of the pests on our land (mainly hooded crows and rabbits) and it seems that I need to get my application signed in triplicate by the head of the UN before the local authorities will take it seriously. I spent 27 years in the Army and a further 7 in the Police and they still think I'm not capable of safely owning a firearm. There are even plans afoot in parts of the UK to require air gun owners to be licensed and ours are limited to 12 foot pounds for air rifles and 6 foot pounds for air pistols. At the moment, if they're above that they are classed as Section 1 firearms which requires the approval from the Home Secretary (the same level of approval as required for hand grenades and CS gas). Go figure. Gary Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites