T Nut Size

[glockanator]

What size T Nuts do y'all use for IWB holsters?

[TwinOaks]

6/32

[joshk]

I use #8-32's....

[evandailey]

How do you guys account for the shank length being too long when sandwiching between two layers of leather. I know may people just clip the prongs but what about the threaded tube?

[TwinOaks]

How do you guys account for the shank length being too long when sandwiching between two layers of leather. I know may people just clip the prongs but what about the threaded tube?

Thread a 3" long screw in from the back and set it to the depth I'll need....then it's off to the belt sander. Take it right to the surface of the screw, taking care to keep it squared. Then, when done, turn the screw out past the sanded area to straighten the threads. Remove the screw, and install the t-nut.

Incidentally, I do use 8/32 from time to time. I like the 6/32 because I can use a 6/32 machine screw and it sets nicely inside a line 24 snap without any modifications.

[evandailey]

Thread a 3" long screw in from the back and set it to the depth I'll need....then it's off to the belt sander. Take it right to the surface of the screw, taking care to keep it squared. Then, when done, turn the screw out past the sanded area to straighten the threads. Remove the screw, and install the t-nut.

Incidentally, I do use 8/32 from time to time. I like the 6/32 because I can use a 6/32 machine screw and it sets nicely inside a line 24 snap without any modifications.

Thanks TwinOaks. That's what I did but I didn't know if someone had a source for shorter shanked ones.

[glockanator]

Thanks for the info! One more dumb question can the straps be moved for either right or left handed? Or should I ask the customer which he wants?

[TwinOaks]

Typically, when I use t-nuts, I bury them between two layers of leather to provide a solid leather back on the holster...whether rough out, or smooth. So, the way I construct them, no the straps can't be moved from one side to the other. Besides, if you have a sweat shield on the holster, that can't normally be relocated....though I guess you could build it as modularly as you want.

[Reaper]

I use #8-32's....

ditto, picked that up from stripping an old Safariland Duty rig.

[malabar]

How do you guys account for the shank length being too long when sandwiching between two layers of leather. I know may people just clip the prongs but what about the threaded tube?

I neither clip the prongs nor grind down the length of the t-nut. When setting my t-nuts, I use enough pressure to push the prongs up into the leather and make the base flush. That helps to ensure that the nut is firmly anchored in the leather and will not turn under torque.

I punch the holes in the strap the same size as the holes for the t-nut. For IWBs, I use two t-nuts for each strap. The ends of the t-nuits become indexing pins for the straps and keep the straps from twisting under torque.

tk

[Reaper]

I use a Kydex shim between the two pieces being screwed together.

This makes a firm mounting point and it also keeps the holster ridged at the mounting point for the life of the holster.

[glockanator]

What dimensions do y'all use on your straps?

[JoelR]

I use 8-32, and grind down both the prongs and shank so that the shank extends through both the base and the strap. I also do as TwinOaks and sandwich them between two layers whenever possible. Personally, I don't trust the strength of a #6 screw and am still looking for small-headed #8 stainless steel screws so I can stop turning them down on my drill press. One of these days I'll do an abuse test on #6 screws and maybe ease my mind on their strength for this purpose.

Strap sizes depend on the design of the rig. Generally I use between 3/4" and 1".

Edited February 12, 2012 by JoelR