George B Report post Posted February 10, 2012 I've never made a set of motorcycle saddlebags, plenty for western saddles but this is a first for a friend. He does not want piping on the edges so it will make my job easier. Throw over design with buckles to attach the the bags to the yoke which will ride across the fender under the passenger seat. Jeremiah Watt stainless steel buckles and conchos using W&C black English bridle leather, 10-12 ounce fronts with 2 layers of 5 ounce on the back with a sheet of Lexan between them. Yoke will be reinforced with 3 strips of 1" wide poly strapping in the yoke to reduce stretching and will slide down on to the brackets he made with spring steel clips to support the bags. Was going to start cutting leather this morning and decided if I was going to mess it up it should be paper first. I am so glad I did. Gotta buy me a roll of craft paper now. Took a while to figure out, if anyone has any suggestions please let me know. Hoping the bags look as good as the patterns. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ramrod Report post Posted February 11, 2012 that's a nice job on the papercraft. you're gonna hate to toss 'em when the job is finished. LOL have you used lexan before as a stiffener? i have thought about it, but the stuff will crack if bent too far. something to think about - and i'm going to expirement with (and it might be cheaper, too). i'm going to try laminate countertop material. it's only about 1/16" thick and is very stiff. i priced a 4x8 sheet of white at home depot at around 42 bucks. it might be cheaper than lexan for the same amount of material. you're goint to post pics after the job is done......riiiight? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chancey77 Report post Posted February 11, 2012 (edited) NICE SHAPE! They are going to be SWEET!!!!!! I use heavy card stock from the craft store like poster board, just because it is easier to trace and the templates last longer. Plexi would work in between the sheets of leather. But I personally use metal. Less prone to breakage/melting. A sheet of aluminum because of the weight factor. Less weight the better! Formica would also work, but aluminum is much better, also since the bags are going over the pipes and might over time droop and start touching the pipes, especially overloaded )and they do get overloaded on trips). ANY PLASTIC MATERIAL WILL START MELTING. Metal will be much better! Aluminum is normally about 3 bucks a square foot so much cheaper than plexi or formica. And it is what you need , they will cut it for you if you give them the dimensions. I have fixed A LOT of bags, and they are always lined with metal, because bags that size always burn/rot through the leather over time. Not your fault, but the fault of the bike owner for not cleaning and taking care of their bags like they should... Take the aluminum and measure the distance for back bottom and front and cut it into a rectangle, put it on you bench and make the marks and fold it into a U shape so it is structurally strong. Drill out a few holes so you can rivet it to the front bottom and back sides to help add internal support. That will help them from drooping over time. That is my 2cents:) Edited February 11, 2012 by chancey77 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
electrathon Report post Posted February 11, 2012 The only issue I see is the top side of the smaller pocket. It has a gap open to the elements, could be an issue when riding in the rain and dust. Aaron Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chancey77 Report post Posted February 11, 2012 The only issue I see is the top side of the smaller pocket. It has a gap open to the elements, could be an issue when riding in the rain and dust. Aaron That is true Arron! But most people just like the look and only put in small stuff like a tool bag or loose tools, or gloves or something when they stop. It is a design on a lot of the moto bags to have a flap pouch like that. Weither it is good for the bag and its contents is up to how well the owner takes care of his leather. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
McJeep Report post Posted February 11, 2012 I think I'm reading your plans correctly - you are planning to use buckles to attach the individual bags to the permanently affixed yoke? My suggestion would be to use heavy gauge nylon zippers for this attachment - less bulky than buckles - easily hidden with a trim flap - spreads the weight of bags and load evenly across the joint - easier to unzip a bag while supporting it with yer other hand vice manipulating buckles? Nice looking profile on those - me likey Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
George B Report post Posted February 12, 2012 that's a nice job on the papercraft. you're gonna hate to toss 'em when the job is finished. LOL have you used lexan before as a stiffener? i have thought about it, but the stuff will crack if bent too far. something to think about - and i'm going to expirement with (and it might be cheaper, too). i'm going to try laminate countertop material. it's only about 1/16" thick and is very stiff. i priced a 4x8 sheet of white at home depot at around 42 bucks. it might be cheaper than lexan for the same amount of material. you're goint to post pics after the job is done......riiiight? I think I will use a light gauge aluminum for the back, side and bottom as suggested. Yes, I plan on posting the pics. Thanks, George Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
George B Report post Posted February 12, 2012 NICE SHAPE! They are going to be SWEET!!!!!! I use heavy card stock from the craft store like poster board, just because it is easier to trace and the templates last longer. Plexi would work in between the sheets of leather. But I personally use metal. Less prone to breakage/melting. A sheet of aluminum because of the weight factor. Less weight the better! Formica would also work, but aluminum is much better, also since the bags are going over the pipes and might over time droop and start touching the pipes, especially overloaded )and they do get overloaded on trips). ANY PLASTIC MATERIAL WILL START MELTING. Metal will be much better! Aluminum is normally about 3 bucks a square foot so much cheaper than plexi or formica. And it is what you need , they will cut it for you if you give them the dimensions. I have fixed A LOT of bags, and they are always lined with metal, because bags that size always burn/rot through the leather over time. Not your fault, but the fault of the bike owner for not cleaning and taking care of their bags like they should... Take the aluminum and measure the distance for back bottom and front and cut it into a rectangle, put it on you bench and make the marks and fold it into a U shape so it is structurally strong. Drill out a few holes so you can rivet it to the front bottom and back sides to help add internal support. That will help them from drooping over time. That is my 2cents:) Thanks for the comments and suggestions. I think you are right on the aluminum, and as he is a metal worker by trade it should turn out great. The bags will actually have a tubular metal support bracket behind them that will hold a majority of the weight. We have made a set of clips for the back of the bag that will allow attachment and keep the bag from bouncing off the bracket. Thanks for the great advice, George Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
George B Report post Posted February 12, 2012 I think I'm reading your plans correctly - you are planning to use buckles to attach the individual bags to the permanently affixed yoke? My suggestion would be to use heavy gauge nylon zippers for this attachment - less bulky than buckles - easily hidden with a trim flap - spreads the weight of bags and load evenly across the joint - easier to unzip a bag while supporting it with yer other hand vice manipulating buckles? Nice looking profile on those - me likey Hi McJeep, that was my first suggestion to him but he insists on buckles. All the buckles will do is tie the bags to the yoke, most of the weight will be supported by a set of brackets behind the bags. I am leaving an extended piece of leather on both the yoke and the back of the bags to protect the paint from the buckles and will leave me enough leather that a zipper can be used to replace the buckles if they become a problem. Thanks, George Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmccutchan Report post Posted March 17, 2014 OK....I just joined this site with the hopes of learning how to make these kind of saddlebags (among other things). You gotta come back and finish the thread.....please???? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Luke Hatley Report post Posted March 20, 2014 (edited) Yes i started out with paper ....The customer liked it. Edited March 20, 2014 by Luke Hatley Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Studio-N Report post Posted March 20, 2014 Hold on to those paper bags. Then when a customer tries to knock you down in price you can always pull them out and say "Well I have these that might be in your price range" Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Uncle Fester Report post Posted April 8, 2014 What gauge of aluminium do you guys sugest? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ramrod Report post Posted July 7, 2014 .032 is plenty stiff. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shadowryder Report post Posted July 8, 2014 I made these bags from poster card first then transferred to the leather. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=44284 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
