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Strap Cutting - Alternative Methods

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Hello to you all.

My first post on here, though I've been lurking for a while. I'm UK based, a hobby maker, doing knife, saw and axe sheaths, belts, purses.

I've been using one of the wooden strap cutters for some time now, with generally good results. However, with the traditionally tanned bridle leather that I've recently started working with, I've been finding that the blades for the cutter are blunting and notching much quicker than they do with standard veg-tan. I'm sometimes only getting 2-3 straps cut before the blade goes bad on me. (I'd love to get a plough gauge, but the price is way beyond my budget at the moment!). I wondered about resharpening the blades (and have tried doing so, but haven't yet had a chance to try out any of the re-sharpened ones). Does anyone else on here re-sharpen them?

It got me wondering about other methods for strap cutting. I always do the starter straight edge on a new piece of leather by running a scratch awl along a straight edge, then using my round knife, and guessed that this must be a viable means of cutting straps, albeit a bit slower than using a strap cutter. I wonder if anybody else does this and recommends it?

Thanks

Geoff

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I use the paragon shaped knife blades in my strap cutter as well as to do all my leather cutting of patterns, etc.

I have a round knife, . . . just do not like the critter.

And, . . . yes, . . . I made a strop of a scrap piece of 10 oz leather, . . . little jeweler's rouge, . . . keeps my knife blades all sharpened until I chip em or something that makes em unserviceable.

They work much better than straight out of the mfg'r's package.

May God bless,

Dwight

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I use the paragon shaped knife blades in my strap cutter as well as to do all my leather cutting of patterns, etc.

Thanks - that's very useful, though I'm not too sure what you mean by the paragon shaped blades. The only ones I've seen for the wooden strap cutters are the ones a bit like half a razor blade. I don't suppose you have a link or picture to show what you mean?

Thanks

Geoff

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Geoff,

I too use the wooden strap cutter. I work primarily with 12-14 oz latigo. I discovered that I can take an old blade and push the current blade you are using up a little bit to expose the edge that was hidden in the wood. Use it this way until it dulls then push it the other way. This essentially triples the life of the blade. Just be very careful because the end sticks out of the top and can pose a hazzard to fingers (don't ask me how I know)

I tried sharpening the blades, but had mixed results. I figure the blades aren't too expensive so I don't worry about how many I go through, especially with my little trick above.

Good luck,

JET

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Geoff,

I too use the wooden strap cutter. I work primarily with 12-14 oz latigo. I discovered that I can take an old blade and push the current blade you are using up a little bit to expose the edge that was hidden in the wood. Use it this way until it dulls then push it the other way. This essentially triples the life of the blade. Just be very careful because the end sticks out of the top and can pose a hazzard to fingers (don't ask me how I know)

I tried sharpening the blades, but had mixed results. I figure the blades aren't too expensive so I don't worry about how many I go through, especially with my little trick above.

Good luck,

JET

Yes - you can by a lot of replacement blades for the price of a plough gauge!

I've been having reasonable results now with sharpening the blades (held in a pair of pliers) on a Fallkniven DC4 stone. I'll have a think on pushing the blade up as you describe.

Geoff :)

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Well yeah, you can stop the razor blades and they will work better until you can buy new ones. The problem I have is, on occasion they break while trying to cut through really hard veg tan. For some reason, every once in a while I'll get some skirting from Hermann Oak that is more like sole leather. Trying to cut it with anything is a struggle. The cutter starts getting wider, which messes up the width of the cut and then it gets to a point where, if I pull any harder, it breaks the blade. For some reason it binds up in the hard leather. I literally have gone through 4-5 blades trying to get it cut. I finally just cut by hand.

I've tried the plough gauge. Either I can't put a good edge on it or I just don't have the talent and guts to use it. With that sharp blade sticking out there next to my thumb trying to hold down a 3" strap, pulling through some thick skirting..... eh, no way. All my instincts are telling me it is a stupid risky method to cut a strap. I guess if I had started out using it and nothing else, and learned the proper way to use it, I'd be fine with it, but frankly, the thing is looks like an accident looking for an idiot to happen.

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Well yeah, you can stop the razor blades and they will work better until you can buy new ones. The problem I have is, on occasion they break while trying to cut through really hard veg tan. For some reason, every once in a while I'll get some skirting from Hermann Oak that is more like sole leather. Trying to cut it with anything is a struggle. The cutter starts getting wider, which messes up the width of the cut and then it gets to a point where, if I pull any harder, it breaks the blade. For some reason it binds up in the hard leather. I literally have gone through 4-5 blades trying to get it cut. I finally just cut by hand.

I've tried the plough gauge. Either I can't put a good edge on it or I just don't have the talent and guts to use it. With that sharp blade sticking out there next to my thumb trying to hold down a 3" strap, pulling through some thick skirting..... eh, no way. All my instincts are telling me it is a stupid risky method to cut a strap. I guess if I had started out using it and nothing else, and learned the proper way to use it, I'd be fine with it, but frankly, the thing is looks like an accident looking for an idiot to happen.

Brent,

I have the same experience with the wooden strap cutters. On your gauges- plough gauge or draw gauge? The plough gauge is pushed and the blade is in line with your hand and no torque. There is a roller to keep the leather down and feeding into the blade. I have one that will make an 8" cut as easy as it cuts 1". I use a draw gauge too, but not for much over 1-1/4" since I was introduced to a plough gauge.

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Brent,

I have the same experience with the wooden strap cutters. On your gauges- plough gauge or draw gauge? The plough gauge is pushed and the blade is in line with your hand and no torque. There is a roller to keep the leather down and feeding into the blade. I have one that will make an 8" cut as easy as it cuts 1". I use a draw gauge too, but not for much over 1-1/4" since I was introduced to a plough gauge.

Ah yes, draw gauge. That's what I have, and I don't trust it. Like you say, for anything more than a couple inches, it's no better than the wooden one.

Thanks for clearing up that misconception.

Here is a plough gauge for sale on the Internet.

post-1925-085968700 1330437241_thumb.jpg

http://www.bonanza.com/listings/Plough-Gauge-BEAUTIFUL-Barnsley-Sheffield-England/21773362

It looks like an accurate device to hold and control the knife as it is pushed through the leather, rather than into the table surface. Makes sense.

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Ah yes, draw gauge. That's what I have, and I don't trust it. Like you say, for anything more than a couple inches, it's no better than the wooden one.

Thanks for clearing up that misconception.

Here is a plough gauge for sale on the Internet.

post-1925-085968700 1330437241_thumb.jpg

http://www.bonanza.c...ngland/21773362

It looks like an accurate device to hold and control the knife as it is pushed through the leather, rather than into the table surface. Makes sense.

Brent,

I didn't know Barnsley was back to making them unless this is still some of the old stock, but that picture looks pretty new. If you ever want to try one, here's a link to a few I have ready to go -plough gauges for sale . I'll have several more in the next month or so.

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Anyone want to trade a good plough gauge for a nice, well cared for Boss Stitcher?

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Brent,

I didn't know Barnsley was back to making them unless this is still some of the old stock, but that picture looks pretty new. If you ever want to try one, here's a link to a few I have ready to go -plough gauges for sale . I'll have several more in the next month or so.

Those are some beautiful tools. The 10cm would probably be large enough for my needs. I'll have to take out a second on my house and get back to ya. But, seriously, I will keep it in mind. What I need more than a plough gauge is an Artisan 20" splitter..... You ready to part with yours?

Edited by Go2Tex

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Those are some beautiful tools. The 10cm would probably be large enough for my needs. I'll have to take out a second on my house and get back to ya. But, seriously, I will keep it in mind. What I need more than a plough gauge is an Artisan 20" splitter..... You ready to part with yours?

Brent,

I never got the splitter. I had cash money in my pocket for one at Sheridan that year and planned to drive to LA and pick one up when I got home. I got a crappy demo and insulting sales spiel and decided I didn't need one that bad.

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Brent,

I never got the splitter. I had cash money in my pocket for one at Sheridan that year and planned to drive to LA and pick one up when I got home. I got a crappy demo and insulting sales spiel and decided I didn't need one that bad.

Ah, too bad. Yeah, a sales spiel can leave a bad taste. I could sure use a wide spitter, though.

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Tex,

That is a copy of the old Randall, it is meant to be set at one thickness and used that way. It doesn't like to change and you waste a ton of leather setting it. The blade is also a pain to reinstall. Seriously, get a band splitter. If you are going to use it a lot for different settings, then the band splitter is worth the extra cost, which is significant.

Art

Ah, too bad. Yeah, a sales spiel can leave a bad taste. I could sure use a wide spitter, though.

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Tex,

That is a copy of the old Randall, it is meant to be set at one thickness and used that way. It doesn't like to change and you waste a ton of leather setting it. The blade is also a pain to reinstall. Seriously, get a band splitter. If you are going to use it a lot for different settings, then the band splitter is worth the extra cost, which is significant.

Art

Well, that's not good news. The band splitters are great but way out of my price range, I think. I can buy a whole lot of leveled skirting for what I would pay for one of those. Probably never pay it off except in terms of convenience. I appreciate the info, though.

I think I just saved myself a bunch of Obama-bucks....

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FWIW, the problem with the wooden strap cutter seems to be with one particular piece of fairly hard leather. Despite stropping the blade and cranking the locking screw, the leather is 'dragging' the arm of the cutter so the strap gets wider the further you cut - not good! Other than this, the cutter works very well on other bits of leather - certainly up to 1.25" width straps. I suspect that the torque on the arm from wider straps /harder leather is causing the blade to angle out slightly, and drag the arm with it at the cut progresses.

Seems to tally with what others have said - wooden cutter for narrower straps, up to draw gauge for middle widths, and plough gauge for wider ones. But you've got to REALLY want a plough gauge to spend that sort of money! :)

After a frustrating time wasting a strap width of expensive leather, I just ended up scribing lines and using the round knife - which was a lot easier than I'd expected. It's slower, but does produce a very good clean straight edge, even on a 60" strap.

However, Tandy have a sale on at present, certainly in the UK, and you can get the Craftool draw gauge for £23.39 - down from normal price of £37.43. Will be interesting to see how well this copes.

Geoff

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AARRHG!!!! After using my little wooden Tandy strap cutter for about 11 years with little or no problems, except the hard leather previously mentioned, now all of a sudden the @#$%^& thing starts going the other way. I'm just trying to cut some 5/8" straps out of heavy harness and for some weird unexplainable reason, the strap cutter keeps angling away from the leather and giving me a tapered cut. I try pushing the leather firmly against the cutter to no avail. It starts doing it almost as soon as I start the cut. I flip the leather over, and viola', a perfect cut.

So, I think, the straight edge cut is not vertical and thus, it is being forced out from the cutter, thinning the cut. I can't imagine that this is the problem because I've never had this happen before. I'm beginning to think that there is a different problem with the cutter, perhaps the part that holds the blade is worn and is allowing it to go wacky....

I think I'll try my other cutters and see if I can duplicate the problem. Not like I have time to waste on this. Why does stuff like this always happen when your are in a hurry?

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AARRHG!!!! After using my little wooden Tandy strap cutter for about 11 years with little or no problems, except the hard leather previously mentioned, now all of a sudden the @#$%^& thing starts going the other way. I'm just trying to cut some 5/8" straps out of heavy harness and for some weird unexplainable reason, the strap cutter keeps angling away from the leather and giving me a tapered cut. I try pushing the leather firmly against the cutter to no avail. It starts doing it almost as soon as I start the cut. I flip the leather over, and viola', a perfect cut. . Why does stuff like this always happen when your are in a hurry?

I'm going to share this link to a 1904 book on leather working. On page 29 in the book it explains how to make a bench top strap cutting appliance. I think the design could be modified a little with a roller to keep the leather from crawling up on you.

http://www.archive.org/details/leatherworking00hasl

The book is downloadable as a pdf and you can read it online.... look for the links on the left.

hope it helps some.

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Not shure how I missed this one, Bruce And Brent If you are looking for larger splitter talk to Steve ( cobra) I have my name on one when he gets his order in.

Pretty sweet deal on them, and we know how Steve is to deal with. Bruce I had one of artisans ordered finally told them where they could put it.

Al

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Not shure how I missed this one, Bruce And Brent If you are looking for larger splitter talk to Steve ( cobra) I have my name on one when he gets his order in.

Pretty sweet deal on them, and we know how Steve is to deal with. Bruce I had one of artisans ordered finally told them where they could put it.

Al

How does it compare to the Artisan splitter? I need it to be easy to adjust the thickness, at least as easy as my Landis 30.

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It is a streched version of the landis 30, first ones have yet to hit the wharehouse. Should be in (fingers crossed) in late April early May. Best to talk to Stevehe can give you the full scoop.

How does it compare to the Artisan splitter? I need it to be easy to adjust the thickness, at least as easy as my Landis 30.

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It is a streched version of the landis 30, first ones have yet to hit the wharehouse. Should be in (fingers crossed) in late April early May. Best to talk to Stevehe can give you the full scoop.

Oooo.... sounds interesting. What are they asking for them?

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Give Steve a call, he can tell you if he has any left ( 1st order was 10 & I was number 8) I will say that they are less than artiasan, but then they are only 14", kinda wish he had gone 2" bigger, but I am sure he had his reasons.

Oooo.... sounds interesting. What are they asking for them?

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Just got a really nice plough gauge from Bruce Johnson. Life is good!

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Just got a really nice plough gauge from Bruce Johnson. Life is good!

Lucky... wish I could afford something like that.

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