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Hello, first post and my first holster. I'm looking for some feedback and pointers. It is not complete, my stainless T nuts haven't come in yet. (8-32 if anyone was wondering, same as on a Bianchi I have) It will be IWB

S&W Model 60 J frame

Horeshide from Springfield

Nyltex thread, the white discolored and came back to white after a stint in the oven at 125 or so for 40 min. Is this a good thread (saddle stich by hand) or should I look for something else? I may change to black thread, I plan on doing many more holsters.

What is recomended as a sealer or can it be left natural? I'm guessing seal it. I have Scotch Gaurd, Fieblings Neetsfoot oil, Mink Oil and Saddle soap on hand, may even have Sno Seal. I think the oils are out because they will soften the holster. I may use the saddle soap to burnish the edge.

Is a Head Knife worth buying or what do others use? What brand of Head Knife should I look for?

I appreciate all pointers and critism

Jeremy

post-29226-047750300 1330278735_thumb.jp

post-29226-051391800 1330278745_thumb.jp

post-29226-097599200 1330278756_thumb.jp

Edited by J Hayes

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Jeremy.

Nice looking holster. Stitching looks great. A very light coat of pure neats foot oil or extra virgin olive oil on the outside surfaces works good. Emphasis on light coat. Make sure you allow plenty of time for the oil coat to absorb before you seal. maybe 24 hours or more. Seal with an acrylic sealer. Many folks will chime in on what works for them. I find that mop and glow cut 50/50 with water works good. One bottle will do for many holsters.

Best luck to you.

Jeff Hays

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Jeff,

Thanks.

Can I skip the oil? This hide is a bit thin I think and I'd like it to be as stiff as possible.

I think I read of how you were using the mop and glo, mist it with a spray bottle since i don't have an airbrush.

Thanks

Jeremy Hayes

post-29226-069440900 1330363269_thumb.jppost-29226-052976800 1330363284_thumb.jp

Edited by J Hayes

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Yes you can skip the oil. do anything you want. I think the oil restores what was lost during the forming process. It may last longer with the oil. How long will the holster last without the oil? You can dip the holster in the mop and glow. Try on some scrap first and see what you get. just a quick in out is fine. I have heard all kinds of things about how this does not work. trust me, it does. just test on some scrap first and see what you get. Make sure you cut the m&G with water. 50/50 or a little more water is great. let it stand for 24 hours. Dip again if you think it needs it. What ever acrylic sealer you use, should help stiffen the holster too.

Another thing I have tried for restoring leather is Skidmore's leather cream. Only takes a little. acts as a finish/sealer too. works good on new leather.

Holster making is addicting. But it helps you justify buying more guns. Opens more doors to reasons "I need this other pistol because...,".

Jeff

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Jeff

I do belive the addiction part. Many friends carry, one is LE and works P/T in a gun shop. May open some doors for me. Hopefully I can make enough to buy more guns, can never have enough!

When you hand stich do you drill the holes or just muscle the awl through?

What thread do you like?

I burnished my edge with a hard felt wheel on my buff and charged it with beswax, seemed to work good. I do have some Gum Tar as well.

Thanks

Jeremy

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Holster looks great. Revolvers can be a little tricky go get a good stitch line but it looks like you got it.

As far as the head knife goes I put mine for sale on eBay after just about taking my thumb off. Still have a scare.

I started using a pair of large shears I got from Tandy while they where on sale. They work great for me. And you can get similar at Lowes are any hardware.

Much cheaper and safer. But everyone is different.

CJ

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CJ

Thanks for the compliment and the advice on the knife, think I'll buy a shears.

I took my time with the paper pattern to get the stitch line figured out.

Jeremy

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post-29226-078740100 1330373782_thumb.jpMy edge Edited by J Hayes

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Anybody use just Johnson paste wax as a sealer?

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Holster looks good. One question on your edges, can't tell for sure becuase the picture is a little fuzzy did you bevel both the inside and outside of the two pieces before gluing and stitching? If you did next time try just beveling the outside edges then glue and stitch the two pieces together and burnish as one piece.

Scott

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Scott,

Sorry about the bad picture. I just beveled the outside slightly on my belt grinder. I glued the two slightly oversize and sanded smooth then grooved and stitched. I should probably work the edge a bit more, starting by sanding to a finer grit. Really wanted to see if the beeswax and hard felt buff would do the trick or not. I'll work it more.

Hopefully this is a better picture

Jeremy post-29226-027693300 1330390252_thumb.jp

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post-29226-015630900 1330458658_thumb.jp

Is this the stuff you use Jeff?

Jeremy

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So I dipped my holster in the 50/50 mop and glow, it looks pretty nice. A nice slight sheen. Does anybody do any more than that, like a neutral shoe polish or is it now done? I did apply a light coat of neatsfoot oil and allowed it to dry overnight before the mop and glow.

Thanks

Jeremy

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Jeremy,

Based on comments by the "Grumpy Old Guy", I have used shoe polish after the mop and glow. However, I don't use the polish very often. I usually like the look I get from dipping the holster. By the way, the GOG is Katsass. He uses his air brush to spray a couple of light coats of M&G on his holsters.

Jeff

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