How To Stitch In Throat Reinforcements"

[ouchmyfinger]

this is as far as i got and now i don't know the best method to stitch it in

should i stitch it and then bend it, i didn't know how to do that without marking the leather

thanks

[Rising Sun Leather Co]

Whenever I add throat reinforcements, after I have located where exactly I want it and marked it, I glue the reinforcement piece to the main piece laying flat. Once the glue has dried, I then stitch the two together, while flat. I also line all of my holsters, so I do this before I put on the liner. I do not stitch the top of the reinforcement at this time. That will be stiched at the same time I stitch in the liner. I do it this way because it hides and protects the rest of the stitcing.

I bend the leather over after I have edged and burnished most of the leather.

Hope this helps.

Joey

[Denster]

You might want to consider reducing significantly the thickness of the metal you are using for a reinforcement.

[malabar]

Metal throat reinforcements must be glued to the leather reinforcement strip when it is flat (before the metal is bent). The assembly is then glued and stitched to the main body of the holster and it is sewn together flat. Once the inner and outer pieces are sewn to the reinforcement strap, the reinforcement strip is then bent into shape, and the holster is stitched into shape.

tk

[triage1998]

Metal throat reinforcements must be glued to the leather reinforcement strip when it is flat (before the metal is bent). The assembly is then glued and stitched to the main body of the holster and it is sewn together flat. Once the inner and outer pieces are sewn to the reinforcement strap, the reinforcement strip is then bent into shape, and the holster is stitched into shape.

tk

For those that are using metal reinforcement strips. What material and where are you getting it from? Steel or aluminium?

[Shooter McGavin]

Spring steel would be best IMO. Difficult to work with maybe, but it would certainly keep the mouth open.

Most aluminum alloys have a hard time bending without breaking.

[ouchmyfinger]

i have access to a metal shop that has every type of metal imaginable so does anyone know what i should be using exactly, I'm a decent sized guy and pretty strong and bending that around the pipe with 2 pair of pliers wasn't that bad how would i bend that after it is stitched in?

thanks everyone

[Denster]

i have access to a metal shop that has every type of metal imaginable so does anyone know what i should be using exactly, I'm a decent sized guy and pretty strong and bending that around the pipe with 2 pair of pliers wasn't that bad how would i bend that after it is stitched in?

thanks everyone

Several guys use the metal banding used for palletizing. I think that is about .020 thick. It doesn't have to be heavy as it only helps to keep the mouth of the holster open for reholstering and is really only useful on IWB designs not really needed on OWB although some folks do add it.

[triage1998]

Several guys use the metal banding used for palletizing. I think that is about .020 thick. It doesn't have to be heavy as it only helps to keep the mouth of the holster open for reholstering and is really only useful on IWB designs not really needed on OWB although some folks do add it.

I wonder if 3/4" .20mm thickness stainless from ULINE would work for throad reinforcements.

http://www.uline.com...Steel-Strapping

[malabar]

Several guys use the metal banding used for palletizing. I think that is about .020 thick. It doesn't have to be heavy as it only helps to keep the mouth of the holster open for reholstering and is really only useful on IWB designs not really needed on OWB although some folks do add it.

That's what I use.

tk

[malabar]

I wonder if 3/4" .20mm thickness stainless from ULINE would work for throad reinforcements.

http://www.uline.com...Steel-Strapping

It probably would. BUT......

That's wider than the strapping I typically use. And the wider it is, the wider the leather reinforcement strap has to be, and the harder it is to bend. And it makes it harder to use for smaller holsters.

tk

[yepod]

+1 to what Denster said.

[triage1998]

It probably would. BUT......

That's wider than the strapping I typically use. And the wider it is, the wider the leather reinforcement strap has to be, and the harder it is to bend. And it makes it harder to use for smaller holsters.

tk

what size do you use? 5/8" or 1/2"?

[BigRiverLeather]

I used to use the metal banding but I knew there was a better option out there somewhere. Another Maker I know recommended using stainless feeler gauge 1/2" x .025. It works great and will never rust. It is available in 12" strips if you want to just try it out, or 10' and 25' coils. I think next time I might try out the .31 thickness in a 12" strip just to see how that forms.

I mark the corners where it will bend over the slide and clamp on with a vice grip with that mark lining up on the edge of the jaws. use 2 pieces of leather between the vise grips and your holster. Then I bend that corner, mover the grips a touch over to the other bend and bend that corner. It springs back a bit but I can usually mash them together without wrecking my bends.

http://www.maudlinproducts.com/1328.xml?cat=1360

[malabar]

what size do you use? 5/8" or 1/2"?

5/8" for everything.

tk

[SooperJake]

Has anyone tried using their vacuum press to mold a metal reinforcement already sewn inside the holster or is the slide area pre-bent by hand prior to sewing?

Jake

[malabar]

You sew the reinforcement piece in first, while the pieces of leather are flat. Then you bend the reinforcement piece around the gun into the proper shape. Then you glue the sides together, and then stitch the sides.

tk

Has anyone tried using their vacuum press to mold a metal reinforcement already sewn inside the holster or is the slide area pre-bent by hand prior to sewing?

Jake

[SooperJake]

I guess the second half of my question was redundant.