How Do I Make My Own Wax Finish?

[MMArmoury]

After years of searching for the right finish for my leather projects, insisting on natural and historical ingredients, I settled on Kiwi Beeswax Waterproofer. It contained lanolin as well as beeswax and made for a lighter and more flexible finish than pure melted beeswax. But unfortunately it has been discontinued. I was thinking of making my own, with beeswax, lanolin and neatsfoot oil. I also just heard of a recipe with equal parts beeswax and petroleum jelly. What do you guys think? What about Tandy Atom Wax, is it similar?

[Dwight]

I use an old fashioned recipe: 50/50 by weight, . . . beeswax and neatsfoot oil. Use a scale, . . . equal weights of each.

I put em both in a jar, . . . jar goes into the $10 used crockpot I bought just for this, . . . just enough water to float the jar, . . . put on the lid, . . . come back in a little while, . . . all is melted, mixed, and ready to be put in molds.

Pour it out in muffin cups if you like, . . . works great.

I put it on with my fingers, . . . kinda like I used to do with Kiwi shoe polish when I was in the Navy, . . . rub it in, . . . on new leather, . . . add a LITTLE heat to kinda melt it in, . . . it works beautifully in my opinion, . . . but then again, . . . I'm kinda opinionated.

May God bless,

Dwight

[evandailey]

I have started using Montana Pitch Blend conditioner almost exclusively for my final finish after reading on here where several people recommended it and I can't imagine finding a better product. It is all natural which was important to me as well. I have to order it directly from them, but you may be able to find it locally depending on where you live.

[MMArmoury]

I already use a pitch and beeswax mixture for waterproofing my leather bottles, but I don't want to use pitch just for regular exterior leather finish. I am considering a beeswax/lanolin/neatsfoot oil mixture, trouble is I don't know what ratio to use because I don't know if the lanolin behaves more like a wax or an oil (to compliment either the beeswax or neatsfoot). I am consider a 2/1/1 ration of beeswax/lanolin/neatsfoot or a 1/1/1 ratio. Which one would be better?

[Dwight]

Just a suggestion, . . . try the 50/50 beeswax/neatsfoot oil combination first.

It is a really good finish just like that, . . . but also you could then see if there is something missing from what you want. You can then begin to add lanolin to it a little bit at a time, . . . and since we are talking of a mixture here, . . . not a compound, . . . it should mix in easily, . . . until you get the product you are looking for.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Bluesman]

Just a suggestion, . . . try the 50/50 beeswax/neatsfoot oil combination first.

It is a really good finish just like that, . . . but also you could then see if there is something missing from what you want. You can then begin to add lanolin to it a little bit at a time, . . . and since we are talking of a mixture here, . . . not a compound, . . . it should mix in easily, . . . until you get the product you are looking for.

May God bless,

Dwight

Dwight,

This wax finish of yours has my curiosity. Just exactly how do you use it? In process steps. For example, oil, neatlac, antique, wax. Going to the Goodwill to find me a crock pot. I want to try this, but need a bit of guidance first.

Thanks,

Jon

[Anacott Steel]

1332273465[/url]' post='240295']

Dwight,

This wax finish of yours has my curiosity. Just exactly how do you use it? In process steps. For example, oil, neatlac, antique, wax. Going to the Goodwill to find me a crock pot. I want to try this, but need a bit of guidance first.

Thanks,

Jon

Jon I had the same question, but didn't want to ask in case it should have been obvious !So thanks for asking it.

Dwight - is this mixture used instead of resolene sealer ? Or after you have applied any sealer ?

Many thanks

Don

[Bluesman]

Jon I had the same question, but didn't want to ask in case it should have been obvious !So thanks for asking it.

Dwight - is this mixture used instead of resolene sealer ? Or after you have applied any sealer ?

Many thanks

Don

I look at this way. If you don't ask stupid questions, you stay stupid. Furthermore, getting the info direct helps everyone get better. Sharing is a wonderful thing.

[Dwight]

This particular product is very, very easy to use. AND, . . . you use it after you have done any dyeing, . . . but it takes the place of Sheen, Resolene, Atom Wax, Mop & Glo, . . . all the other "finishes".

One minor caution, . . . it does darken the leather a bit, . . . something on the order of the darkening you would expect from a dose of just neatsfoot oil.

I apply it kinda like the old Kiwi shoe polish, . . . with a rag or with my fingertips. DO NOT use water with it.

On raw leather, . . . I'll rub it in, . . . using 3 or 4 applications, . . . then just touch, . . . and I mean gently touch it with a heat gun set on low, . . . watching only for the wax to liquify, . . . then pull the heat off. Let it cool for a couple of minutes and buff it out with a soft cloth.

For example, . . . I'll start applying it at one end of a belt, . . . turn it over and apply to the back side, . . . turn it back, . . . give it another coat, . . . turn it over again, . . . etc. until I have 3 full coats on it. On with the heat gun, . . . buff, . . . inspect, . . . go from there. I do have one advantage over most folks, . . . my beeswax is free from my beehive, . . . but even if I had to buy the wax, . . . it is something near about 1/4th or 1/5th of the cost of some of the packaged finishes.

The added benefit is that some of the package finishes can be a bear to "re-do" if the product gets a real good scuff or scrape. This just re-finishes almost as good as new.

If you are willing to take the time, . . . you can bring it up to a spit polish like we swabbies used to do for our inspection shoes, . . . or you can drop off somewhere in between "spit polish" and "flat".

I did the gun holster in the pics with it, . . . and I was very, very satisfied with the end result, . . . which was to make it look "old westerny" and "old" but yet not look distressed. I think I accomplished my goal, . . . and it is my personal "Let's dress up like cowboys" rig.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited March 20, 2012 by Dwight

[Bluesman]

Thanks Dwight, you the man.

[Anacott Steel]

Yes you are Dwight. Very comprehensive.

Oh and Jon, hope you don't think I was suggesting the question was stupid in any way.

Cheers

[Bluesman]

Yes you are Dwight. Very comprehensive.

Oh and Jon, hope you don't think I was suggesting the question was stupid in any way.

Cheers

No, were fine. No problem here. Just my sense of humor

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

Have you tried Sno-Seal? It is a beeswax based snowproofing for boots. I have used it for years on my hiking boots.

[J Hayes]

This particular product is very, very easy to use. AND, . . . you use it after you have done any dyeing, . . . but it takes the place of Sheen, Resolene, Atom Wax, Mop & Glo, . . . all the other "finishes".

One minor caution, . . . it does darken the leather a bit, . . . something on the order of the darkening you would expect from a dose of just neatsfoot oil.

I apply it kinda like the old Kiwi shoe polish, . . . with a rag or with my fingertips. DO NOT use water with it.

On raw leather, . . . I'll rub it in, . . . using 3 or 4 applications, . . . then just touch, . . . and I mean gently touch it with a heat gun set on low, . . . watching only for the wax to liquify, . . . then pull the heat off. Let it cool for a couple of minutes and buff it out with a soft cloth.

For example, . . . I'll start applying it at one end of a belt, . . . turn it over and apply to the back side, . . . turn it back, . . . give it another coat, . . . turn it over again, . . . etc. until I have 3 full coats on it. On with the heat gun, . . . buff, . . . inspect, . . . go from there. I do have one advantage over most folks, . . . my beeswax is free from my beehive, . . . but even if I had to buy the wax, . . . it is something near about 1/4th or 1/5th of the cost of some of the packaged finishes.

The added benefit is that some of the package finishes can be a bear to "re-do" if the product gets a real good scuff or scrape. This just re-finishes almost as good as new.

If you are willing to take the time, . . . you can bring it up to a spit polish like we swabbies used to do for our inspection shoes, . . . or you can drop off somewhere in between "spit polish" and "flat".

I did the gun holster in the pics with it, . . . and I was very, very satisfied with the end result, . . . which was to make it look "old westerny" and "old" but yet not look distressed. I think I accomplished my goal, . . . and it is my personal "Let's dress up like cowboys" rig.

May God bless,

Dwight

So will this take the place of oiling after wet molding? Now I wet mold let dry a day or so, neetsfoot oil inside and out let that dry a day or so and dip in 50-50 mop n glo mixture.

Jeremy

[Dwight]

Quite frankly, . . . I very seldom oil a newly made holster.

IF I DO, . . . it is the hair side only. Oiling the flesh side gives me a holster that I don't like as it is floppy, spongy, and rubbery. I like mine to be stiff.

AND I only oil a holster if I see the leather itself is especially dry. Otherwise, I don't.

But in answer to your question, yes, I would think that this product is more than adequate for oiling your holster.

May God bless,

Dwight

[J Hayes]

Quite frankly, . . . I very seldom oil a newly made holster.

IF I DO, . . . it is the hair side only. Oiling the flesh side gives me a holster that I don't like as it is floppy, spongy, and rubbery. I like mine to be stiff.

AND I only oil a holster if I see the leather itself is especially dry. Otherwise, I don't.

But in answer to your question, yes, I would think that this product is more than adequate for oiling your holster.

May God bless,

Dwight

Thanks. Do you then use your mix on the exterior only?

Thanks

Jeremy

[Dwight]

Jeremy, . . . the mix that I make, . . . I will use both inside and out. Since it is a "mix" it is not like pouring straight oil on the item.

But then again, . . . it is one of those things you just have to get a feel for, . . . and I don't mean to sound snooty or anything by it, . . . but one of the main differences between a "maker" and a "craftsman", . . . is the craftsman puts thought into the project beyond just the mechanics.

Think about it, . . . play with it, . . . make some mistakes it'll all come together as you go along.

I got an Ebay message not long ago about a rig I sold on Ebay, . . . one I made for gun shows, . . . didn't need any more, . . . the customer was positively thrilled with it. Those are the things that will make your day for you, . . . and make you strive more for "craftsman" than for "maker".

But again, . . . the mix can be used inside and out, . . . I use a wool dauber or a paper towel wrapped around a stick to put it down inside some of the pieces.

May God bless,

Dwight

[J Hayes]

Jeremy, . . . the mix that I make, . . . I will use both inside and out. Since it is a "mix" it is not like pouring straight oil on the item.

But then again, . . . it is one of those things you just have to get a feel for, . . . and I don't mean to sound snooty or anything by it, . . . but one of the main differences between a "maker" and a "craftsman", . . . is the craftsman puts thought into the project beyond just the mechanics.

Think about it, . . . play with it, . . . make some mistakes it'll all come together as you go along.

I got an Ebay message not long ago about a rig I sold on Ebay, . . . one I made for gun shows, . . . didn't need any more, . . . the customer was positively thrilled with it. Those are the things that will make your day for you, . . . and make you strive more for "craftsman" than for "maker".

But again, . . . the mix can be used inside and out, . . . I use a wool dauber or a paper towel wrapped around a stick to put it down inside some of the pieces.

May God bless,

Dwight

Thanks for the advice, I will make a batch and give it shot. I will be striving for craftsman status, otherwise its not worth doing. I think a craftsman strives for perfection, however elusive it is. I appreciate the help.

Jeremy

[J Hayes]

I made a batch of beeswax neetsfoot oil. Man do I like it! Fingers worked best to apply as Dwight stated. One question though is edges. I rubbed mine with gum trag and then waxed, any opionions ?

Jeremy

[Dwight]

I made a batch of beeswax neetsfoot oil. Man do I like it! Fingers worked best to apply as Dwight stated. One question though is edges. I rubbed mine with gum trag and then waxed, any opionions ?

Jeremy

I'm not a fan of gum trag, . . . use it sometimes, . . . ruined a project one time when it got where it shouldn't be ( MY fault !!! ) and it blocked out the dye, . . . threw the project away.

Just be careful with it, . . .

Sometimes I like to dye the edges real dark if not black, . . . then go to the straight bees wax & polish the edges real good. That gives it an aura all it's own I think.

May God bless,

Dwight

[J Hayes]

Thanks. That gum is kinda messy and a PIA. Do you hand rub the edge with canvas or machine with a nylon slicking wheel?

It's nice to use one product on everything, lessens the chance for error and speeds the process a bit.

Thanks again

Jeremy