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Yes you are Dwight. Very comprehensive.

Oh and Jon, hope you don't think I was suggesting the question was stupid in any way.

Cheers

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Posted

Yes you are Dwight. Very comprehensive.

Oh and Jon, hope you don't think I was suggesting the question was stupid in any way.

Cheers

No, were fine. No problem here. Just my sense of humor

If it ain't moving and should......WD40, If it's moving and shouldn't....Duct Tape. There you have it, now fix something

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Posted

Have you tried Sno-Seal? It is a beeswax based snowproofing for boots. I have used it for years on my hiking boots.

You laugh at me because I am different. I laugh at you because you are all the same.

  • 2 weeks later...
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This particular product is very, very easy to use. AND, . . . you use it after you have done any dyeing, . . . but it takes the place of Sheen, Resolene, Atom Wax, Mop & Glo, . . . all the other "finishes".

One minor caution, . . . it does darken the leather a bit, . . . something on the order of the darkening you would expect from a dose of just neatsfoot oil.

I apply it kinda like the old Kiwi shoe polish, . . . with a rag or with my fingertips. DO NOT use water with it.

On raw leather, . . . I'll rub it in, . . . using 3 or 4 applications, . . . then just touch, . . . and I mean gently touch it with a heat gun set on low, . . . watching only for the wax to liquify, . . . then pull the heat off. Let it cool for a couple of minutes and buff it out with a soft cloth.

For example, . . . I'll start applying it at one end of a belt, . . . turn it over and apply to the back side, . . . turn it back, . . . give it another coat, . . . turn it over again, . . . etc. until I have 3 full coats on it. On with the heat gun, . . . buff, . . . inspect, . . . go from there. I do have one advantage over most folks, . . . my beeswax is free from my beehive, . . . but even if I had to buy the wax, . . . it is something near about 1/4th or 1/5th of the cost of some of the packaged finishes.

The added benefit is that some of the package finishes can be a bear to "re-do" if the product gets a real good scuff or scrape. This just re-finishes almost as good as new.

If you are willing to take the time, . . . you can bring it up to a spit polish like we swabbies used to do for our inspection shoes, . . . or you can drop off somewhere in between "spit polish" and "flat".

I did the gun holster in the pics with it, . . . and I was very, very satisfied with the end result, . . . which was to make it look "old westerny" and "old" but yet not look distressed. I think I accomplished my goal, . . . and it is my personal "Let's dress up like cowboys" rig.

May God bless,

Dwight

So will this take the place of oiling after wet molding? Now I wet mold let dry a day or so, neetsfoot oil inside and out let that dry a day or so and dip in 50-50 mop n glo mixture.

Jeremy

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Posted

Quite frankly, . . . I very seldom oil a newly made holster.

IF I DO, . . . it is the hair side only. Oiling the flesh side gives me a holster that I don't like as it is floppy, spongy, and rubbery. I like mine to be stiff.

AND I only oil a holster if I see the leather itself is especially dry. Otherwise, I don't.

But in answer to your question, yes, I would think that this product is more than adequate for oiling your holster.

May God bless,

Dwight

If you can breathe, . . . thank God.

If you can read, . . . thank a teacher.

If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran.

www.dwightsgunleather.com

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Posted

Quite frankly, . . . I very seldom oil a newly made holster.

IF I DO, . . . it is the hair side only. Oiling the flesh side gives me a holster that I don't like as it is floppy, spongy, and rubbery. I like mine to be stiff.

AND I only oil a holster if I see the leather itself is especially dry. Otherwise, I don't.

But in answer to your question, yes, I would think that this product is more than adequate for oiling your holster.

May God bless,

Dwight

Thanks. Do you then use your mix on the exterior only?

Thanks

Jeremy

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Posted

Jeremy, . . . the mix that I make, . . . I will use both inside and out. Since it is a "mix" it is not like pouring straight oil on the item.

But then again, . . . it is one of those things you just have to get a feel for, . . . and I don't mean to sound snooty or anything by it, . . . but one of the main differences between a "maker" and a "craftsman", . . . is the craftsman puts thought into the project beyond just the mechanics.

Think about it, . . . play with it, . . . make some mistakes :head_hurts_kr: it'll all come together as you go along.

I got an Ebay message not long ago about a rig I sold on Ebay, . . . one I made for gun shows, . . . didn't need any more, . . . the customer was positively thrilled with it. Those are the things that will make your day for you, . . . and make you strive more for "craftsman" than for "maker".

But again, . . . the mix can be used inside and out, . . . I use a wool dauber or a paper towel wrapped around a stick to put it down inside some of the pieces.

May God bless,

Dwight

If you can breathe, . . . thank God.

If you can read, . . . thank a teacher.

If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran.

www.dwightsgunleather.com

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Posted

Jeremy, . . . the mix that I make, . . . I will use both inside and out. Since it is a "mix" it is not like pouring straight oil on the item.

But then again, . . . it is one of those things you just have to get a feel for, . . . and I don't mean to sound snooty or anything by it, . . . but one of the main differences between a "maker" and a "craftsman", . . . is the craftsman puts thought into the project beyond just the mechanics.

Think about it, . . . play with it, . . . make some mistakes :head_hurts_kr: it'll all come together as you go along.

I got an Ebay message not long ago about a rig I sold on Ebay, . . . one I made for gun shows, . . . didn't need any more, . . . the customer was positively thrilled with it. Those are the things that will make your day for you, . . . and make you strive more for "craftsman" than for "maker".

But again, . . . the mix can be used inside and out, . . . I use a wool dauber or a paper towel wrapped around a stick to put it down inside some of the pieces.

May God bless,

Dwight

Thanks for the advice, I will make a batch and give it shot. I will be striving for craftsman status, otherwise its not worth doing. I think a craftsman strives for perfection, however elusive it is. I appreciate the help.

Jeremy

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Posted

I made a batch of beeswax neetsfoot oil. Man do I like it! Fingers worked best to apply as Dwight stated. One question though is edges. I rubbed mine with gum trag and then waxed, any opionions ?

Jeremy

post-29226-045063600 1333420648_thumb.jp

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Posted

I made a batch of beeswax neetsfoot oil. Man do I like it! Fingers worked best to apply as Dwight stated. One question though is edges. I rubbed mine with gum trag and then waxed, any opionions ?

Jeremy

post-29226-045063600 1333420648_thumb.jp

I'm not a fan of gum trag, . . . use it sometimes, . . . ruined a project one time when it got where it shouldn't be ( MY fault !!! ) and it blocked out the dye, . . . threw the project away.

Just be careful with it, . . .

Sometimes I like to dye the edges real dark if not black, . . . then go to the straight bees wax & polish the edges real good. That gives it an aura all it's own I think.

May God bless,

Dwight

If you can breathe, . . . thank God.

If you can read, . . . thank a teacher.

If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran.

www.dwightsgunleather.com

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