I Should Know This!

[newfiebackflip]

Hey all,

Been a while since I have done any leather work. I need to jump back on the bicycle and get things done.

I am basically self taught besides watching a few vids on Tandy's site and being taught the Saddle stitch by Steve @ Greenman Leather a few years back.

My question/questions are dying and buffing related. I cannot for the love of god remember if I have asked this else where, I cannot seem to find it.

I like the feibings dye's a lot more than eco-flo, that I do remember. But what I do remember is that feibings has a powder residue that seems to take me hours of buffing to try to get rid of it.

Should I always be putting neatsfoot oil on before and after dying? I have never done it before and I have seen a few posts suggesting it. Will it help with the residue?

Any buffing tips to help me buff it quicker and better? Also if I am to put neatsfoot on after dying, is it done before or after the resolne?

Not going to lie, i feel like a total jack a@# for asking and I am slightly embarrassed but I guess this is the only way I am going to learn is by asking.

Thanks everyone

[Dwight]

Newfie, . . . dye it first. Oil it later on.

In fact, . . . is there some deepseated overpowering desire rooted from your childhood experiences that force you to oil?

(Just kidding of course)

If you use Feibings Oil dye, . . . you don't need to oil it afterward, . . . many do, . . . but I have never seen where it does anything tangible beyond adding 2 steps and an extra expense to the finished product in many cases.

May God bless,

Dwight

[newfiebackflip]

Hey Dwight,

Thanks for the response that is helpful.

Now what about the residue left from dying? Feels like im trying to remove it for half an hour with no real result.

Newfie, . . . dye it first. Oil it later on.

In fact, . . . is there some deepseated overpowering desire rooted from your childhood experiences that force you to oil?

(Just kidding of course)

If you use Feibings Oil dye, . . . you don't need to oil it afterward, . . . many do, . . . but I have never seen where it does anything tangible beyond adding 2 steps and an extra expense to the finished product in many cases.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Dwight]

I use a spirit dye, British Tan, . . . that needs almost no buffing to remove the leftover pigment.

At the other end of the spectrum is USMC Black, . . . that almost seems to spawn more pigment as you buff and rub. I know it doesn't, . . . but sometimes it just seems that way. When I get done with the project, . . . I am so pumped with the USMC Black, . . . but until I pronounce it done, . . . UGH, . . . that pigment gets all over me, my desk, my clothes, . . . I scratch my forehead and it looks like I just came up out of the coal bin.

All you can do is rub and buff, . . . my personal choice is old, . . . key word, operative word, . . . OLD, . . . washcloths that you never want to use on your personal body again. The softness and broken fibers in them make them really good for the buffing, . . . other guys like lambswool.

Anyway, . . . get off enough of it so that it shines, . . . and by rotating it under a light, . . . you can see there are no big pockets of pigment laying out there to ruin your finish. I like to then wipe it with a clean cloth or paper towel, . . . and apply the finish. Once that dries, . . . touch up the edges a bit.

Done !

May God bless,

Dwight

[newfiebackflip]

BAZINGA!

Thats the exact dye that I am using! It is slowly coming back to me now. Crap you would think I was 98 years old!

Thanks again Dwight.

Darren

I use a spirit dye, British Tan, . . . that needs almost no buffing to remove the leftover pigment.

At the other end of the spectrum is USMC Black, . . . that almost seems to spawn more pigment as you buff and rub. I know it doesn't, . . . but sometimes it just seems that way. When I get done with the project, . . . I am so pumped with the USMC Black, . . . but until I pronounce it done, . . . UGH, . . . that pigment gets all over me, my desk, my clothes, . . . I scratch my forehead and it looks like I just came up out of the coal bin.

All you can do is rub and buff, . . . my personal choice is old, . . . key word, operative word, . . . OLD, . . . washcloths that you never want to use on your personal body again. The softness and broken fibers in them make them really good for the buffing, . . . other guys like lambswool.

Anyway, . . . get off enough of it so that it shines, . . . and by rotating it under a light, . . . you can see there are no big pockets of pigment laying out there to ruin your finish. I like to then wipe it with a clean cloth or paper towel, . . . and apply the finish. Once that dries, . . . touch up the edges a bit.

Done !

May God bless,

Dwight

[Josiah]

I had the same problem with USMC black. I soaked the leather and then applied the stain and there was almost no buffing left to do.

I use a spirit dye, British Tan, . . . that needs almost no buffing to remove the leftover pigment.

At the other end of the spectrum is USMC Black, . . . that almost seems to spawn more pigment as you buff and rub. I know it doesn't, . . . but sometimes it just seems that way. When I get done with the project, . . . I am so pumped with the USMC Black, . . . but until I pronounce it done, . . . UGH, . . . that pigment gets all over me, my desk, my clothes, . . . I scratch my forehead and it looks like I just came up out of the coal bin.

All you can do is rub and buff, . . . my personal choice is old, . . . key word, operative word, . . . OLD, . . . washcloths that you never want to use on your personal body again. The softness and broken fibers in them make them really good for the buffing, . . . other guys like lambswool.

Anyway, . . . get off enough of it so that it shines, . . . and by rotating it under a light, . . . you can see there are no big pockets of pigment laying out there to ruin your finish. I like to then wipe it with a clean cloth or paper towel, . . . and apply the finish. Once that dries, . . . touch up the edges a bit.

Done !

May God bless,

Dwight