Inca Boot Pattern

[johnggrg]

I recently bought the Tandy Inca boot pattern. It looks easy enough but there is a lot of information not included. I have never made these or mocs before so this is new to me. Ok it does not say what type or thickness of leather to use. What to use as a sole etc.

Has anyone made these before? If so I really need some help with the information part. And anything else you think might help. Thank you in advance for any and all of your help. john

[johnggrg]

bump

[Sylvia]

I recently bought the Tandy Inca boot pattern. It looks easy enough but there is a lot of information not included. I have never made these or mocs before so this is new to me. Ok it does not say what type or thickness of leather to use. What to use as a sole etc.

Has anyone made these before? If so I really need some help with the information part. And anything else you think might help. Thank you in advance for any and all of your help. john

Hi:

I've put together an old inca boot kit before. The leather was all the same thickness and it had a insole pad glued to the sole piece. It seems to me that I had an issue with the pre-punched leather. It was suede so it was hard to see the "diamond shaped" hole. This was rather important because the heal/side pieces crossed over the front piece at the diamonds.

One thing you might want to remember is that leather (especially soft leather) has a tenancy to twist on you. You'll want your pieces cut perpendicular to the spine of the hide, to help prevent this. The leather itself should be soft, flexible and about 3-4 millimeters thick. Depending on how hard you intend to wear these shoes, I would go with 6-8oz elk or buffalo hide. If you want something to wear around the house You can probably get away with 5oz leather. One thing a friend of mine does is mix up tire grindings from a retread shop with barge cement and applies that to the bottom of the mocs. This still gives a quiet sole but it is more wear and water resistant.

If you search for how to make moccasins online You might find some help. I know there are a few how to make moccasin tutorials on Youtube too.

[johnggrg]

Thank you for the reply Silvia. I just bought the pattern no leather included with it just a pattern for the pieces that need to be cut out. So go with 6-8oz elk or buffalo for the upper and what to use for the sole? Hand stitching no lace. John

[Sylvia]

Thank you for the reply Silvia. I just bought the pattern no leather included with it just a pattern for the pieces that need to be cut out. So go with 6-8oz elk or buffalo for the upper and what to use for the sole? Hand stitching no lace. John

Hi John:

Depends on your application I guess. Most kits have the sole being the same leather. If you are going with 6-8oz that should be strong and thick enough for the sole. If you feel you need it thicker, you can double up, stick it down then cut away the seam allowance.

Do you plan to wear these while hunting or hiking?

I just looked up this post on etsy where the craftsperson used 4-5 oz leather. You can see that they "sag"

http://www.etsy.com/listing/59130786/suede-boot-moccasin-inca-ankle-high-1000

I think you would have better luck with the 6-8oz. Elk and buffalo is rather stretchy so remember to fit these snug to they don't stretch out and get sloppy. You can also get deer tanned cow hide that is nice. I think I got 17 square feet from "The Leather Guy" on ebay for around $60 shipped in October. The deer tanned cow hide was 6oz and it's still stretchy but not as much as I understand the elk and buffalo are.

If you have the means you might try making a prototype pair from some canvas, old denim jeans, etc... something sturdy and firm, so you can get the feel of how the pattern fits before cutting your leather.

[johnggrg]

Thanks again Silvia that's what I needed to know/ John

[johnggrg]

Hi John:

Depends on your application I guess. Most kits have the sole being the same leather. If you are going with 6-8oz that should be strong and thick enough for the sole. If you feel you need it thicker, you can double up, stick it down then cut away the seam allowance.

Do you plan to wear these while hunting or hiking?

I just looked up this post on etsy where the craftsperson used 4-5 oz leather. You can see that they "sag"

http://www.etsy.com/listing/59130786/suede-boot-moccasin-inca-ankle-high-1000

I think you would have better luck with the 6-8oz. Elk and buffalo is rather stretchy so remember to fit these snug to they don't stretch out and get sloppy. You can also get deer tanned cow hide that is nice. I think I got 17 square feet from "The Leather Guy" on ebay for around $60 shipped in October. The deer tanned cow hide was 6oz and it's still stretchy but not as much as I understand the elk and buffalo are.

If you have the means you might try making a prototype pair from some canvas, old denim jeans, etc... something sturdy and firm, so you can get the feel of how the pattern fits before cutting your leather.

I have tried the leather guy and he has no 6oz deer tanned leather. I looked on ebay and it was slim pickings. The stuff I found was "thinner on top or thinner on bottom" When I emailed to ask how much was uneven I got no replies. So I have not been able to find anything to make these from. I do want to go with the thickest I can so they last. I was wondering and I know it would not be normal to do use for mocs. But could you use veg tan leather? I know it's not suede but could it be used to make them? I have lots of that on hand. Let me know what you think. Or if you know somewhere to find thick suede at a good price. Thank you. john

[Sylvia]

I have tried the leather guy and he has no 6oz deer tanned leather. I looked on ebay and it was slim pickings. The stuff I found was "thinner on top or thinner on bottom" When I emailed to ask how much was uneven I got no replies. So I have not been able to find anything to make these from. I do want to go with the thickest I can so they last. I was wondering and I know it would not be normal to do use for mocs. But could you use veg tan leather? I know it's not suede but could it be used to make them? I have lots of that on hand. Let me know what you think. Or if you know somewhere to find thick suede at a good price. Thank you. john

That doesn't surprise me too much the Leather guy and some others on ebay buy odd lots and always have some variance in their inventory.

Try this place. When you arrive on the page scroll down until you see the"bark Mulch colored" hide. It's 6-6.5oz so they say, (I think it's thicker) Says it's chrome tanned.

http://www.brettunsvillage.com/leather/sides.htm $80 shipped.

As for tooling leather? Well, I imagine you could if you have some leather that is more soft... then oiled the bejeezers out of it and worked it until it was supple. But by the time you did that it would be much easier to just buy a good hide.

[Suicide]

Hi guys,

Desided to jump into your thread.

John,

Go for Bison/Buffalo with no any doubts, as Sylvi suggested. You'll get the most soft, well-breatheable, durable and comfly boots which will last indoor use for ages. Just make them snug enough, as snug so won't even feel comfortable with them for first 2-3 days of wearing. After that mocs will stretch and will be "just right" for your feet. Otherwise, if they "just right" right off your sewing table, they'll get very loose after day or two.

[Sylvia]

Desided to jump into your thread.

Glad you did Suicide. Bison/Buffalo can be spendy for the first pair ... but I think as long as he's willing to make the prototype from canvas, etc. I think he'll be ok with a more valuable leather.

You should direct John to your photos. I bet he would love to see your work.