IngleGunLeather Posted April 8, 2012 Report Posted April 8, 2012 (edited) So, i recently did up a holster with a line 24 snap for the thumb break and I didn't like that fact that the back side of the male end concaved. When I put the plastic cover on, I was left with a small gap. I was thinking of counterboring to recess the snap. I could have sworn I came across this process in one of the threads. However, after an extensive search, I couldn't find it again. Any advise? Edited April 8, 2012 by CountryTrash Quote
Members camano ridge Posted April 8, 2012 Members Report Posted April 8, 2012 (edited) the one i remember was recessing tee nut bases and they used a forstner bit to shave a hrecess for the base of the tee nut to set in so it was below or even with the surface of the leather. Ibelieve the process would work the same with the snap. Just find the right size forstner bit slowly shave the recess down to the desired depth and inset the snap base. Edited April 8, 2012 by camano ridge Quote
mlapaglia Posted April 8, 2012 Report Posted April 8, 2012 (edited) If you have a french edger you can try this trick from page 38 of Leathercraft-Tools-by-Al-Stohlman. Its really easy and works well for me. Michael Edited April 8, 2012 by mlapaglia Quote
Members katsass Posted April 8, 2012 Members Report Posted April 8, 2012 So, i recently did up a holster with a line 24 snap for the thumb break and I didn't like that fact that the back side of the male end concaved. When I put the plastic cover on, I was left with a small gap. I was thinking of counterboring to recess the snap. I could have sworn I came across this process in one of the threads. However, after an extensive search, I couldn't find it again. Any advise? FWIW from the old grumpy guy; I think (maybe) that the problem you are having is that the base used when setting that snap just wasn't firm enough. The little 'anvils' supplied for setting just aren't enough IMO. I use an 8"x8" piece of 1/4" steel as a base, with the anvil on top of that only for the domed side. No anvil for the male piece. Mike Quote
Members J Hayes Posted April 9, 2012 Members Report Posted April 9, 2012 My setting anvil has 2 sides, one concave for the tops and one flat for the male posts. Is it possible yours has only one side, a concaved one? Sometimes when I get in a hurry I overlook things, and something like using the wrong side of the anvil I could see myself doing. Jeremy Quote
IngleGunLeather Posted April 9, 2012 Author Report Posted April 9, 2012 My setting anvil has 2 sides, one concave for the tops and one flat for the male posts. Is it possible yours has only one side, a concaved one? Sometimes when I get in a hurry I overlook things, and something like using the wrong side of the anvil I could see myself doing. Jeremy Maybe that's all it is, my user error. My anvil has two sides. I'll flip it over on the next one. Quote
Members JoelR Posted April 10, 2012 Members Report Posted April 10, 2012 Pig skin lining on just the strap portion. Looks more professional IMHO. Nothing for the user to loose and the pig skin will not wear through. Personally, I'd recess the socket as well using the french edger approach. Creates a much nicer look when snapped, again, IMHO. Quote
Members busted Posted April 10, 2012 Members Report Posted April 10, 2012 My FWIW I agree with the old grumpy guy. I don't use the backing tool from Tandy. I use a piece of 3/4" steel plate to back the snap when I set it. Nothing but flat after that. So, i recently did up a holster with a line 24 snap for the thumb break and I didn't like that fact that the back side of the male end concaved. When I put the plastic cover on, I was left with a small gap. I was thinking of counterboring to recess the snap. I could have sworn I came across this process in one of the threads. However, after an extensive search, I couldn't find it again. Any advise? Quote
Members NoName Posted April 12, 2012 Members Report Posted April 12, 2012 That is why I started lining mine. I like to hide the hardware. Quote
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