Removing Or Minimizing Scuff Or "bruise"

[SimonJester753]

I'm fairly new to leather work. Mostly I've been using latigo, mostly black latigo.

I found the brown latigo that I could get from Tandy was fairly dark to start out, and once I rubbed some Aussie leather conditioner in it just got darker.

Since I couldn't find lighter brown latigo, I got some harness leather in a lighter, (but not as light as I wanted), brown.

I'd been using a slicker wheel in a dremel to slick the edges with gum trag. I slipped a couple of times and "bruised" the surface of the leather near the edge. The bruise is darker.

It turns out that the groove in the slicker wheel has gotten deeper from using it at high speed in the dremel, and so it comes up over the surface of the leather more than it should. So even when slicking by hand I got some bruising on the surface. So I need a new slicker.

I know I can minimize the bruise by rubbing mink oil into the leather– it will darken it and hide the bruise. But I'd rather not darken the leather. Any suggestions on how to eliminate the bruise without darkening the leather?

Also, so far I've slicked the edge, first with just water, then with gum trag. I need to finish the edge. I've heard oil dye doesn't take well over gum trag, but it was ok on a small test strip. I'm worried that on something bigger than a test strip, it might look inconsistent.

My other option is edge coat. Or if I end up oiling the leather, just let the oil darken the edge and finish it with bees wax.

I saw a video about using a glass burnisher on the surface of leather. Would something like that help?

[SimonJester753]

Another thought I had was to take a stitching groover and cut a groove along the edge. The piece I'm working on is a dog collar. It's 1.5" wide, reduced at the ends to fit a 1" buckle.

Once I groove it, I could dye just the outer border to obscure the "bruise."

[Sylvia]

The "bruise" is actually a "burnish" I am not sure it can be reversed. But I do like your solution you offered in the second post.

I always dye my edges before slicking and burnishing the edges. It just makes more sense to me.

[SimonJester753]

The "bruise" is actually a "burnish" I am not sure it can be reversed. But I do like your solution you offered in the second post.

I always dye my edges before slicking and burnishing the edges. It just makes more sense to me.

Well, I skipped that solution. I wasn't sure how to deal with the border when it came to the narrowed strap ends.

I rubbed some oil into the leather, which made it darker and hid the burnish mark somewhat. Then I dyed the edges, but it seemed a bit weak, so I went over it with Edge Coat.

My first attempt at making this collar will be an experiment. I was looking for copper buckles on the internet and came across a belt with a copper buckle that was made from "sanded harness leather." So I'm going to sand the finish off and then try oiling/waxing.

[HellfireJack]

You're talking about the white slicking wheel tandy sells I assume. You are not actually burnishing your edges. You're just sealing the pores shut with a chemical. Stop using a slicking wheel and actually burnish your edges. There a pinned guide in the how do I do that section here. Using a slicking wheel and gum trag and then edge painting is faster and easier but in the long run proper burnishing provides a better looking edge that will never crack and it's really only a little extra work.

[Sylvia]

Well, I skipped that solution. I wasn't sure how to deal with the border when it came to the narrowed strap ends.

Simon: I really like that you are learning in this way. It is amazing to me how many just freak out, accept defeat, and toss it in the can and some even swear off leather working. You are showing tenacity and a willingness to take a bad situation and make it work anyway. That quality is essential to get good at this leatherwork thing in my opinion... I sometimes call this exercise, the art of the error... or art of the mistake. It can be frustrating for sure but it's really fun to find a way that fixes the error, or makes the error a feature.

Jacks's comment made me wonder if my terms were correct so I looked up burnish.

bur·nish (bûrnsh)tr.v. bur·nished, bur·nish·ing, bur·nish·es 1. To make smooth or glossy by or as if by rubbing; polish.2. To rub with a tool that serves especially to smooth or polish.n. A smooth glossy finish or appearance; luster.

[HellfireJack]

You can define the word any way you want. When 9 out of 10 people on this board talk about burnishing they're talking about the technique in the linked post below. It's a tried and true method.

Gum trag is used to create a polished edge with little to no work. It's a short cut and as such it has it's limitations in application. It helps to slick up latigo leather but most people will tell you to just bevel and edge paint latigo. It also stops you from being able to dye your edge any longer. A slicking wheel isn't meant to be used at high speeds. I know this because I've tried it.

You can properly burnish an edge perfectly with a wooden stick and elbow grease. You can buy a proper wooden burnisher made for a dremel and make it even easier. You'll also have more control if you mount your dremel. You can buy the drill press mounting system for 40 buck or build one yourself.

This is the thread on finishing edges. It's only a tiny bit more work and you will get perfect edges every time with just a little practice and never worry about marring the face of your project again or whether or not your edge paint is going to crack on your project.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18101

Give it a shot and you'll probably kick yourself for not trying it sooner.

[SimonJester753]

You can define the word any way you want. When 9 out of 10 people on this board talk about burnishing they're talking about the technique in the linked post below. It's a tried and true method.

Gum trag is used to create a polished edge with little to no work. It's a short cut and as such it has it's limitations in application. It helps to slick up latigo leather but most people will tell you to just bevel and edge paint latigo. It also stops you from being able to dye your edge any longer. A slicking wheel isn't meant to be used at high speeds. I know this because I've tried it.

You can properly burnish an edge perfectly with a wooden stick and elbow grease. You can buy a proper wooden burnisher made for a dremel and make it even easier. You'll also have more control if you mount your dremel. You can buy the drill press mounting system for 40 buck or build one yourself.

This is the thread on finishing edges. It's only a tiny bit more work and you will get perfect edges every time with just a little practice and never worry about marring the face of your project again or whether or not your edge paint is going to crack on your project.

http://leatherworker...showtopic=18101

Give it a shot and you'll probably kick yourself for not trying it sooner.

I am still learning and appreciate the advice.

Attached is a photo of the finished collar. The mark I've been talking about is on the top edge. I think the oiling darkened the leather to minimize it.

[HellfireJack]

Yep, unfortunately there's not much you can do now other than dye the thing darker than the burnish which I don't think you'll have to do. You're right, the oil makes it less noticeable. I doubt anyone outside of the leather community would recognize the fault. I don't think it looks bad at all. I like your work and the hardware too. Would you possibly mind showing what those copper rivets are holding in place?

Search here for different edge burnishers. Wood ones will give you a better edge than that plastic edge slicker any day. Canvas pieces or cotton disks from harbor freight too.

I used to use the plastic one and then I found the how-to on edges and finally gave it a shot and I don't think I've ever picked the plastic wheel up again.

Search on the forum here for burnishing and you'll find endless easy ways to accomplish the above method.

[SimonJester753]

Yep, unfortunately there's not much you can do now other than dye the thing darker than the burnish which I don't think you'll have to do. You're right, the oil makes it less noticeable. I doubt anyone outside of the leather community would recognize the fault. I don't think it looks bad at all. I like your work and the hardware too. Would you possibly mind showing what those copper rivets are holding in place?

Search here for different edge burnishers. Wood ones will give you a better edge than that plastic edge slicker any day. Canvas pieces or cotton disks from harbor freight too.

I used to use the plastic one and then I found the how-to on edges and finally gave it a shot and I don't think I've ever picked the plastic wheel up again.

Search on the forum here for burnishing and you'll find endless easy ways to accomplish the above method.

The rivets are to hold the buckle and "D" ring. I antiqued the buckle and "D" ring using JAX Pewter Black solution.

I'm wondering if 4 rivets is overkill. Maybe just 2?

[HellfireJack]

Ah gotcha. My brain didn't see the fold over in the first picture apparently. Overkill strength wise? Maybe. Appearance wise? nah. The more copper and brass the better as far as I'm concerned.

[Spinner]

Looks good Simon. I agree with Jack, a good wooden burnisher whether hand or powered will give you a better result than plastic and won't widen under the heat that is created. http://www.leatherburnishers.com is a good resource for cocobolo dremel & drill edge burnishers and if you check out the FAQ section, there are tips about solutions to use instead of gum trag, speeds, etc.

I also agree that most folks like the copper adornments & rivets and if it makes it act & look stronger, all the better. My only comment would be to make sure the belt or collar is wider than your conchos. Aside from looking like the collar was cut a little too narrow when they overlap, they can also lift a little during movement and trap the dog's neck hairs and give them a yank when it moves the opposite direction.

Cheers,

Chris

[SimonJester753]

Looks good Simon. I agree with Jack, a good wooden burnisher whether hand or powered will give you a better result than plastic and won't widen under the heat that is created. http://www.leatherburnishers.com is a good resource for cocobolo dremel & drill edge burnishers and if you check out the FAQ section, there are tips about solutions to use instead of gum trag, speeds, etc.

I also agree that most folks like the copper adornments & rivets and if it makes it act & look stronger, all the better. My only comment would be to make sure the belt or collar is wider than your conchos. Aside from looking like the collar was cut a little too narrow when they overlap, they can also lift a little during movement and trap the dog's neck hairs and give them a yank when it moves the opposite direction.

Cheers,

Chris

I wanted the collar to be a bit wider, too, but I was working from pre-cut harness strap and 1.5" was the widest I could find.

Thanks for the link. I check them out.

[SimonJester753]

The happy customer wearing the collar.