Dyeing Techniques?

[GimcrackLloyd]

Hello folks,

Long time lurker, first time posting. I'd like to ask you about the method you use to dye your leather.

I have tried a few techniques with varied success. I started using wool daubers to apply water and oil based dyes, and found that it applied unevenly; if one stroke overlapped another stroke, that section would be darker than the others. It was very hard to achieve a consistant, even look. Even when using dye prep I got the same results.

So I decided to try submerging the leather in dye. This was easy to do with small projects like bracelets, though it uses a lot of dye really fast. I liked this technique because the edges and bottom of the project would all be dyed the same colour. Though it takes 2 days to completely dry.

What techniques do you folks use? I could use some advice before I run out of dye.

Can you water dyes down? Water down oil based dyes?

Thanks to everyone who replies.

[Mike516]

I've always used a sponge. I got a big pack of them and cut them into squares.

Dry sponge or damp, I always put the dye on the sponge, wipe it on the leather, then right away wipe it off with a dry paper towel folded into a pad, not crumpled up so the dye stays in the low spots. I think damp sponge on dry leather usually works better.

Works for me.

Hope this helps.

[Sylvia]

I am sure you were having a moment with you asked if you could mix OIL dye with WATER.... I'm sure you know that oil and water don't mix .

In fact oil dye is actually a spirit dye so you would have better luck looking up the safety data sheet for the brand of oil dye you intend to use and see what solvent the dye is made with then using the appropriate thinner or reducer.

I spray oil dyes after using a dye prep and a deglazer and I use a reducer to thin

I sponge on or dauber on acrylic dyes in a VERY SMALL circular motion. And like the other poster wipe it off with a folded piece of towel immediately. Just an FYI.. acrylic dyes and paints are the only ones you can thin with water. Keep in mind that chemicals in the water can in some cases change the color of the dye....

[katsass]

Hello folks,

Long time lurker, first time posting. I'd like to ask you about the method you use to dye your leather.

I have tried a few techniques with varied success. I started using wool daubers to apply water and oil based dyes, and found that it applied unevenly; if one stroke overlapped another stroke, that section would be darker than the others. It was very hard to achieve a consistant, even look. Even when using dye prep I got the same results.

So I decided to try submerging the leather in dye. This was easy to do with small projects like bracelets, though it uses a lot of dye really fast. I liked this technique because the edges and bottom of the project would all be dyed the same colour. Though it takes 2 days to completely dry.

What techniques do you folks use? I could use some advice before I run out of dye.

Can you water dyes down? Water down oil based dyes?

Thanks to everyone who replies.

FWIW from the old grump; For 'mechanical' application of dyes I used a small piece of sponge --- clean, unused sponge --- and gloves. Wipe one coat on vertically, wait a bit and apply a second coat at 90 degrees to the first. If needed, a third coat at 45 degrees to the preceding one.

As to thinning down dyes, First, I refuse to use a water based dye(?) I primarily make holsters, and the wet molding process will screw up a dye job quicker than a cat on a mouse. On solvent based (oil dye IS solvent based) use DENATURED alcohol. I dilute all dyes at least 50/50 alcohol to dye, and, at times as much as 30 to 1 alcohol to dye. I generally use an airbrush to apply my dye. I use the absolutely most inexpensive one that can be found (quick-change rig from Harbor Freight --- @ about $7.00 for the brush and bottles --- I replace about once a month.) It's not very adjustable at all, but puts out a lot of dye, and two or three coats allows enough dye to penetrate so as not to scratch off as many find when using a 'true' (expensive) airbrush. Also, I buff the leather after dying when the leather is dry. I use the same airbrush to apply my (thinned down) acrylic finishes. I just stay off the leather a way and just 'mist' on two coats. Hope this helps. Mike

[GimcrackLloyd]

Thank you everyone for the swift replies. Taking your advice I will try with damp and dry sponges and see how it turns out. Eventually I will try with an airbrush and see how it turns out.

Reading your posts, I realize my finishing is lacking. I use atom wax and buff, but you've all mentioned using other finishes I haven't tried. I'll try some new ones out.

Sylvia, you mentioned you use deglazer as well as dye prep. Why? What is deglazer for?

[Sylvia]

Sylvia, you mentioned you use deglazer as well as dye prep. Why? What is deglazer for?

A deglazer is used to take any oils, waxes, and finish products, etc., from the leather before before it is dyed. In fact, my angelus spirit dye is guaranteed to penetrate... but the guarantee is only good if the leather is deglazed with the Angelus deglazer first. One word to the wise though... I've still had troubles with penetrating even after deglazing and you can be certain that I went after that guarantee and got my money back. (black is the worst!!)

I know Katsass likes his $7 airbrush for spraying dye. But if you ever plan to do fine detail painting I recommend you spend the money and get a decent dual action air brush. I got a Paasche from a company on ebay because it was 1. A brand I knew 2. Dual action 3. was the cheapest I found for that model.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Paasche-VLS-SET-Airbrush-Double-Dual-Action-Paint-Hobby-/390414312910?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5ae681a5ce

Edited May 4, 2012 by Sylvia

[GimcrackLloyd]

A deglazer is used to take any oils, waxes, and finish products, etc., from the leather before before it is dyed. In fact, my angelus spirit dye is guaranteed to penetrate... but the guarantee is only good if the leather is deglazed with the Angelus deglazer first. One word to the wise though... I've still had troubles with penetrating even after deglazing and you can be certain that I went after that guarantee and got my money back. (black is the worst!!)

I know Katsass likes his $7 airbrush for spraying dye. But if you ever plan to do fine detail painting I recommend you spend the money and get a decent dual action air brush. I got a Paasche from a company on ebay because it was 1. A brand I knew 2. Dual action 3. was the cheapest I found for that model.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Paasche-VLS-SET-Airbrush-Double-Dual-Action-Paint-Hobby-/390414312910?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5ae681a5ce

Thanks for the link, that seems affordable!

Do you use deglazer on new leather that hasn't been dyed or finished too?

[Sylvia]

Thanks for the link, that seems affordable!

Do you use deglazer on new leather that hasn't been dyed or finished too?

YW on the link. You'll need a small compressor and an inline water trap with regulator. Harbor freight has those on sale now for cheap. Then you'll need an adapter to you can go from regular size air hose to the size on the air brush hose. (all fairly cheap... if you already have the compressor)

Yes I use deglazer on new unfinished leather. (so I comply with the guarantee requirements) I've done both dying without the deglazer and dying with deglazing. I personally don't see a difference.... except the deglazer makes the surface wet. It does make sense that you use some sort of cleaner like Fiebings Dye prep (which is mostly water, clear high alchohol booze, and Sudsing ammonia) to remove oils from your hands etc.

Edited May 4, 2012 by Sylvia

[GimcrackLloyd]

YW on the link. You'll need a small compressor and an inline water trap with regulator. Harbor freight has those on sale now for cheap. Then you'll need an adapter to you can go from regular size air hose to the size on the air brush hose. (all fairly cheap... if you already have the compressor)

Yes I use deglazer on new unfinished leather. (so I comply with the guarantee requirements) I've done both dying without the deglazer and dying with deglazing. I personally don't see a difference.... except the deglazer makes the surface wet. It does make sense that you use some sort of cleaner like Fiebings Dye prep (which is mostly water, clear high alchohol booze, and Sudsing ammonia) to remove oils from your hands etc.

What kind of finishes do you use? I make mostly bracelets right now, I need to start using something to make them sweat and water resistant..

[Sylvia]

What kind of finishes do you use? I make mostly bracelets right now, I need to start using something to make them sweat and water resistant..

I use the eco flo shenes. But if water resistance is important to you I would talk to the saddlers and the holster makers. I know Katass uses a floor product called Mop-n-glo mixed 50/50 with water. I've not tried Wyosheen or Resolene mostly because I've not bothered to buy any yet. I know that some of the holster makers are hot waxing their things to make them hard and water proof.

[Chavez]

A couple of tricks from a newbie that I picked up on this forum:

For dyeing I use wool daubers and apply as follows: 1 coat horizontal, 1 coat vertical, 1 coat diagonal. Apply another diagonal coat (perpendicular to coat 3) if needed. Make sure to keep the dauber wet with dye, don't let them dry out. The result is not perfectly even, but it is even enough to look great and the very slight difference in the colour depth gives leather a very nice "live" look.

For finishing, hot waxing and resolene seem to crack when flexed (at least I couldn't get a consistent result that wouldn't crack). Leather sheen seems alright for tooled leather, though it darkens it quite a bit. I've tried Aussie recently and it will most likely become my favourite. Just need to test it a bit more. A 33-33-33 mix of resolene, atom wax and water is my choice for the edges, however, it seems to perform pretty well if used on carved grain side too. Just make sure you don't overapply it if its gonna be flexed.

For smooth leather carnauba+mink oil seem to do the job quite well. Atom wax & Aussie can also be used here.

I'm still to try bag kote.

[GimcrackLloyd]

A couple of tricks from a newbie that I picked up on this forum:

For dyeing I use wool daubers and apply as follows: 1 coat horizontal, 1 coat vertical, 1 coat diagonal. Apply another diagonal coat (perpendicular to coat 3) if needed. Make sure to keep the dauber wet with dye, don't let them dry out. The result is not perfectly even, but it is even enough to look great and the very slight difference in the colour depth gives leather a very nice "live" look.

For finishing, hot waxing and resolene seem to crack when flexed (at least I couldn't get a consistent result that wouldn't crack). Leather sheen seems alright for tooled leather, though it darkens it quite a bit. I've tried Aussie recently and it will most likely become my favourite. Just need to test it a bit more. A 33-33-33 mix of resolene, atom wax and water is my choice for the edges, however, it seems to perform pretty well if used on carved grain side too. Just make sure you don't overapply it if its gonna be flexed.

For smooth leather carnauba+mink oil seem to do the job quite well. Atom wax & Aussie can also be used here.

I'm still to try bag kote.

I bought bag kote and tried it on some 3-4oz bracelets I made. It has made them a little stiff but I think that is mostly due to how thin this leather is. No cracking and a nice finish.

I'll test with some acrlic resoline when my local shop unpacks their truck.

For those of you who dye using sponges or daubers; do you dye the grain side of the leather, too?