Stitching Awl - What Am I Doing Wrong?

[hazymat]

Hello

My first stitching awl broke on me pretty much immediately (the blade snapped and the top got stuck in the handle), so I bought a more expensive awl haft with a chuck, and a medium-sized, straight diamond awl blade.

The new blade is much stronger and has not snapped, however during the first third of my first project, the blade buckled about 5 times and I straightened it out with a vice. This appears to have blunted the thing, and now it barely manages to pierce the leather. So I have to buy a new blade.

What am I doing wrong:

1. I first used the awl to get through 1 layer of suede, then through 2 layers. Is this a bad idea, or should I be fine?
2. I'm pressing with downward force into the suede, using off-cuts of tooling leather underneath. Is there a better way?
3. Once I've made the hole with the tip, I find that I must push the blade all the way through (right up to the handle of the awl). The blade widens at the top, and this seems the only way to get the hole big enough to reliably get my needle through.
4. To speed things up, I'm going over the whole project making small holes first, then back over the project to widen the hole. This requires pulling-up the edge of the suede or leather, however as it's so close to the edge, my leather is stretching a little. (I'm not using tooling leather for this project, I'm using softer leather and suede.)

I'd love to make my holes more reliable, consistent, and break fewer awls!

Should I be using a hole punch instead? I don't like to see the holes, and I think hole punches make holes too big.

I'm very inexperienced so any comments would be gratefully received.

Thanks

Mat

[SandSquid]

I'm VERY FAR from being an expert, heck I barely qualify as an Apprentice. but I believe this may be a contributing factor:

I'm pressing with downward force into the suede, using off-cuts of tooling leather underneath.

I try and use my (4 prong) 3/32" diamond hole punch as much as possible, but recently I've had to do a LOT of awl work to supplement it, the tines simply will not reach through 3 layers of 9oz leather, and without waxing them every second punch they get seriously stuck.

So, what I do is punch two layers and follow the procedure I outline below. A properly sharpened and waxed awl will glide right through 3 or even 4 layers of 9oz with total ease.

The way my mentor instructed me is to :

place the work in a pony. This gave the single biggest improvement to my hand-stitching.

Prior to that, and even now in the pony, hold the fingers of the left hand against the leather on each side of the intended exit hole to support the leather.

a light coat of beeswax on the awl helps immensely

always hold the awl at a right angle

do not wriggle the awl back and forth

make the smallest hole possible for needle clearence

use lineman pliers to pull the needle through tight holes

Something else I found is that it is not always advantageous to pre-stab holes, in fact when I'm working with purely an awl (no hole punch) I stab only one hole at a time.

I found they will close up on their own after some time, and they will definitely close up from the force of the needle going through the adjacent hole, and have to be reopened.

Plus if the spacing gets a bit wonky you can cheat it back without too much bother.

[Tenpoundsledgehammer]

I'd like to know what you're working on and the tools you're using, with some pics if you would please. It'll help me be able to give you advice that'll assist you more than just unloading a bunch of my general knowledge all at once. Using a stitching awl can be a real god-send, or the biggest pain in the rear you've ever had. LOL Regardless, I'll help you along as much as I can.

[NoName]

Check out the thread " Can You Hand-Stitch Through Two 8-9Oz Pieces?" in the category "sewing leather". You should not have to use enough force to bend or break a blade. When properly sharpened and polished it should glide right through with very little effort.

[Sylvia]

Have you tried a small tine pricking iron?

[ramrod]

i'll second what sandsquid said: try to use a stitchinbg pony or a horse.

also, make sure you're using an extremely sharp awl with wax if possible.

this should help,,,,,and bob's yer uncle. LOL

[hazymat]

Hello

Thanks all (HAH) for the really useful advice and comments.

I'm writing on an iPhone right now but plan to respond properly tomorrow.

I spent all evening building a stitching pony after these comments, can't wait to show photos!

Cheers

Mat

[ChuckBurrows]

While a pony or horse are always a good aid they may not be as big a help as needed for sewing soft leathers like suede since they are flexible even above the jaws of the pony/horse. You will most likely also need to use a backing piece while punching the holes - some folks use a chunk of wax - I use a 5" long x 2" wide section of three layers of 8/9 oz veg tan glued together and use the edge (not the face) of the leather to back up on the opposite side of the awl.

You can also use an awl and hammer, here's a simple how-to - http://www.wrtcleather.com/1-ckd/tutorials/_leatherstitch.html

IMO your problem doing it the way you originally did was not keeping the awl straight while pressing down causing the blade to flex and bend - using a hammer will prevent that. Also as noted in the other thread noted above, polish and sharpen your blade and then keep a chunk of beeswax handy - stab the awl into the wax every third or fourth hole or as needed - the blade should glide through several layers of even heavy weight leather that way.

3.Once I've made the hole with the tip, I find that I must push the blade all the way through (right up to the handle of the awl). The blade widens at the top, and this seems the only way to get the hole big enough to reliably get my needle through.

Sounds like you are using too large a needle and/or thread for the size of the awl. Also if you taper the ends of your thread before putting the needle on then it lessens the bulk at the eye.

Edited May 15, 2012 by ChuckBurrows

[TexasJack]

Somebody posted a pic what they use for backing: a piece of wax wrapped in heavy copper wire. (If I wasn't LOOKING for that thread, I'd find it.) I didn't wrap it in wire, but I've used beeswax (the little disk you get from Tandy) and it works pretty good.

I don't think it's possible for an awl to be too sharp. When I start having trouble pushing it through leather, it's sharpening time.

[hazymat]

Hello

Thanks so much, TexasJack, ChuckBurrows, Ramrod, and everyone else, for the useful comments.

It was probably a bit silly as my first ever project to attempt to stitch through suede! I thought that because the material would be softer, it might be easier...

Since then, I made a stitching pony (see below), bought some more awl blades (I'd buckled my first too many times!) and tried awling through some cowhide shoulder, and the results are far better! For one thing, the leather takes impressions which means the stitching groover and overstitcher actually *worked*, giving the stitching line a really nice consistency. Secondly it turns out I was awling completely incorrectly. I had been punching horizontal holes instead of diagonal ones. Error!

Here's my new pony:

[hazymat]

A few more questions about stitching:

1. The Stohlman book on stitching mentions you should always pull two arms-lengths of thread, regardless of the size of the project. Then if you run out, follow instructions for starting a new thread in the middle of a stitching line. He says "you won't waste any thread", but then I don't think he goes on to say why you won't waste thread! It does seem a bit silly to me. Can anyone explain his rationale?
2. I'm not sure if my thread is waxed or unwaxed. How can I tell? The label just says "Barbour: Flax 100% Lin, 3 cord".
3. Stohlman says that for making bags, it's best to use 4 cord, and a number 7 overstitch wheel. I have 3 cord and a number 5 wheel (smaller cord, bigger distance between holes). I'll be cross-stitching everything. I'm making a messenger bag. Do you think I can use 3 cord and number 5 overstitcher? I like how it *looks* but will there be an effect on how well it wears over time?
4. I'm confused about the different uses for beeswax. Can I basically buy a beeswax block and use it on the thread *and* rub it on the awl? Should I jab the awl into it? Is this the right kind of stuff: http://www.amazon.co...x/dp/B004YSXCEU

I'm very new to it all, but I want to get it right first time.

Thanks!

Edited May 20, 2012 by hazymat

[mlapaglia]

Yes use it on the thread and the awl. I stab the awl in to the wax. I have a piece stuck to the base of my pony so its always there. If the thread does not say waxed its not. Use the technique shown in the Al Stohlman book and wax a piece of thread. Once you see a waxed piece you will know the difference when you pick it up. For one thing waxed thread is never totally limp.

FYI when I stitch I use a champagne cork on the back side to push the awl into. I have also used a wine cork. As you can see there are many ways.

Nice pony. If you have not done so, line the jaws with some leather, grain side out. it will protect the project you put in the jaws.

• The Stohlman book on stitching mentions you should always pull two arms-lengths of thread, regardless of the size of the project. Then if you run out, follow instructions for starting a new thread in the middle of a stitching line. He says "you won't waste any thread", but then I don't think he goes on to say why you won't waste thread! It does seem a bit silly to me. Can anyone explain his rationale?

Basically if you use 6 foot lengths instead of trying to pull one long piece you will waste LESS because it wears out the thread to pull a really long piece through the holes again and again. With shorter pieces you do not throw away as much. It really does save thread.

Michael

Edited May 21, 2012 by mlapaglia

[Northmount]

For short runs, you can use shorter length of thread, just make sure you have some extra so you don't have to splice more in for the last 2 stitches.

For long runs, always go with the 2 arm lengths. Longer than that is self defeating. More snarls, can't do the initial snug-up in one pull, etc.

CTG

[CowboyDan]

A few more questions about stitching:

1. Can anyone explain his rationale?

The very next line of that paragraph says (and I think it's not worded as clearly as it could be): "instructions explain joining threads, using short ends, etc."

In other words, he is saying that among the instructions in the book are explanations on how to join

See page 18, that's showing how to join ends. Page 19 shows how to start a stitch using the joined threads.

For short ends, think a small project that has a baseball stitch, page 48-50. Also see page 65 for other uses of short ends.

[hazymat]

The very next line of that paragraph says (and I think it's not worded as clearly as it could be): "instructions explain joining threads, using short ends, etc."

In other words, he is saying that among the instructions in the book are explanations on how to join

See page 18, that's showing how to join ends. Page 19 shows how to start a stitch using the joined threads.

For short ends, think a small project that has a baseball stitch, page 48-50. Also see page 65 for other uses of short ends.

I see! I've consumed quite a lot of information over the last 48 hours and I must have slightly mis-read the Stohlman. (I've another book on leatherworking on its way tomorrow!)

Thanks for making it clear!