Stitching Awl - What Am I Doing Wrong?

[hazymat]

A few more questions about stitching:

1. The Stohlman book on stitching mentions you should always pull two arms-lengths of thread, regardless of the size of the project. Then if you run out, follow instructions for starting a new thread in the middle of a stitching line. He says "you won't waste any thread", but then I don't think he goes on to say why you won't waste thread! It does seem a bit silly to me. Can anyone explain his rationale?
2. I'm not sure if my thread is waxed or unwaxed. How can I tell? The label just says "Barbour: Flax 100% Lin, 3 cord".
3. Stohlman says that for making bags, it's best to use 4 cord, and a number 7 overstitch wheel. I have 3 cord and a number 5 wheel (smaller cord, bigger distance between holes). I'll be cross-stitching everything. I'm making a messenger bag. Do you think I can use 3 cord and number 5 overstitcher? I like how it *looks* but will there be an effect on how well it wears over time?
4. I'm confused about the different uses for beeswax. Can I basically buy a beeswax block and use it on the thread *and* rub it on the awl? Should I jab the awl into it? Is this the right kind of stuff: http://www.amazon.co...x/dp/B004YSXCEU

I'm very new to it all, but I want to get it right first time.

Thanks!

Edited May 20, 2012 by hazymat

[mlapaglia]

Yes use it on the thread and the awl. I stab the awl in to the wax. I have a piece stuck to the base of my pony so its always there. If the thread does not say waxed its not. Use the technique shown in the Al Stohlman book and wax a piece of thread. Once you see a waxed piece you will know the difference when you pick it up. For one thing waxed thread is never totally limp.

FYI when I stitch I use a champagne cork on the back side to push the awl into. I have also used a wine cork. As you can see there are many ways.

Nice pony. If you have not done so, line the jaws with some leather, grain side out. it will protect the project you put in the jaws.

• The Stohlman book on stitching mentions you should always pull two arms-lengths of thread, regardless of the size of the project. Then if you run out, follow instructions for starting a new thread in the middle of a stitching line. He says "you won't waste any thread", but then I don't think he goes on to say why you won't waste thread! It does seem a bit silly to me. Can anyone explain his rationale?

Basically if you use 6 foot lengths instead of trying to pull one long piece you will waste LESS because it wears out the thread to pull a really long piece through the holes again and again. With shorter pieces you do not throw away as much. It really does save thread.

Michael

Edited May 21, 2012 by mlapaglia

[Northmount]

For short runs, you can use shorter length of thread, just make sure you have some extra so you don't have to splice more in for the last 2 stitches.

For long runs, always go with the 2 arm lengths. Longer than that is self defeating. More snarls, can't do the initial snug-up in one pull, etc.

CTG

[CowboyDan]

A few more questions about stitching:

1. Can anyone explain his rationale?

The very next line of that paragraph says (and I think it's not worded as clearly as it could be): "instructions explain joining threads, using short ends, etc."

In other words, he is saying that among the instructions in the book are explanations on how to join

See page 18, that's showing how to join ends. Page 19 shows how to start a stitch using the joined threads.

For short ends, think a small project that has a baseball stitch, page 48-50. Also see page 65 for other uses of short ends.

[hazymat]

The very next line of that paragraph says (and I think it's not worded as clearly as it could be): "instructions explain joining threads, using short ends, etc."

In other words, he is saying that among the instructions in the book are explanations on how to join

See page 18, that's showing how to join ends. Page 19 shows how to start a stitch using the joined threads.

For short ends, think a small project that has a baseball stitch, page 48-50. Also see page 65 for other uses of short ends.

I see! I've consumed quite a lot of information over the last 48 hours and I must have slightly mis-read the Stohlman. (I've another book on leatherworking on its way tomorrow!)

Thanks for making it clear!