Northmount

Moved to Leather Sewing Machines

Looks good to me Stewart.

Here is the Tandy doc. Leather Splitter Tandy.pdf I think I saw instructions for a very similar splitter by Bruce Jonson, either here or on his website.

@TheFatBob moved your post to leather sewing machines.

Probably hotter in the sun if you remove the 'furry' stuff. The furry stuff would act as insulation since it would trap air, same as most other insulations work. Since much of the top of my head is mostly bald, my leather hat becomes very hot to wear in the sun. That bit of insulation I used to have made a lot of difference.

I assume that this is only in the USA, not Europe, etc.? Don't forget this is a global forum.

Easy on the neatsfoot oil. Too much and it will become a soppy mess. Add light coats, let soak in for 12 to 24 hours before adding another coat. There are several posts here about having saturated leather and the person wanting to know how to remove the excess oil. You can treat both sides of the leather. It will look blotchy, but will even out as you let it soak in for a few hours. Use pure NFO, not NFO compound.

@Noydini Please post photos here in the future. Third party hosting often results in the pictures disappearing and renders the thread useless for future reference. Third party hosts change policies, users delete photos from their account or close the account, etc. I have downloaded your photos and pasted them into your post.

Also parts were available for a straight stitch needle plate and feed dog. I picked a set up about 5 years ago.

@AbelJojua Moved your post to leather sewing machines.

Looks a little too wet. It loses definition and doesn't hold the shape of the tool. Try a trial with a couple stamps. When you moisten the leather (case) stamp a single impression, wait 1 minute, then stamp again, continue until the leather is getting too dry to make a good impression. Then you will be ale to see the difference, what the burnished colour looks like, and the definition, and hoe many minutes it took to get there. Not all pieces of leather will behave exactly the same. Different tanages, thicknesses, etc. But it will give you a better measure of how wet/dry it needs to be. This was my biggest mistake when I started many years ago.

@TheMackinaw Moved your post to leather sewing machines. Lots of visitors in this part of the forum Welcome to LW.

You are doing OK here. You can drop several pictures on a post. Then click the plus (+) sign to put them where your cursor is in the text of the post. Thanks for making the effort.

@johnnydb Please post your photos here. Third party hosting often results in bad links due to people changing permissions, moving files, deleting their account, host going out of business or changing policies, etc. When this happens, the posts in the thread lose relevance and become useless to future readers. If you are having trouble posting here, reduce the size of your photos to 800x600 or 1024x768 pixels and you can post maybe hundreds of photos in a single post. See this thread for help if you need it. Lots of options https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/15122-how-to-post-pictures-on-lw/?do=findComment&comment=551171

Even with the bushings dripping with oil (really over oiled) I've seen several seized up. Only happens with bushings. Never on ball bearings. For my own, I switched to a sealed ball bearing motor and never had any problems with it. Main reason for switching was to change to a 2 speed motor so I could run low speed all the time to maintain circulation through the whole house and run at high speed when heating or a/c kicked in. Ran for years that way, then installed a high efficiency furnace.

I'm not the only one that has run into this problem. If you search through this forum you will find other incidents that are the same. I've had the same problems with furnace fan motors where they seize up frequently, even when well oiled. Seized due to a build up of varnish.

He hasn't been on the site since Oct 2020.

Very bad etiquette for any forum. Suggest you follow the directions you have been given.

You need to reduce the file size of your photos. See this link for several suggestions of ow or what software is available to resize your photos. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/15122-how-to-post-pictures-on-lw/?do=findComment&comment=551171 Please post your photos here.

The marketplace includes several sub forums. The business and estate sales section, maybe a good catch all for you. Also note the marketplace rules https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/70-announcements/ If you are able to, it may help to break things up into groups of tools, etc. with separate postings for each group. It will be easier for you to keep track of what is sold and questions or comments.

@teddy8bear Moved your post to leather sewing machines. Used is in the marketplace where you post to sell equipment. Please post photos here so they don't disappear when 3rd party host, or who ever changes requirements, location, PW etc. Threads become useless when the photos illustrating the information disappear. For videos, save on YouTube or other 3rd party host as they won't usually fit here. Since this video is relatively small, I was able to post it here with your photos.

@xander0791 You need to reduce the file sizes to fit the restrictions. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/15122-how-to-post-pictures-on-lw/?do=findComment&comment=551171 Has information that you can look through to find a method that works for you and your equipment.

Must have been run dry. Oiling won't clean that up.

Wet molding mushes the tooling. I have photos of saddles where the tooling was done before wet molding, and others that were tooled, or touched up after the swells were installed. You may need a block of wood or something to fit inside while tooling.

Or, did someone use engine lubricating oil where the additives in the oil have oxidized turned to a gummy varnish which has dried out and caused the bearings to seize up? If so you may be able to soak it and soak it, and work it back and forth until it breaks loose. Then flush it well with good sewing machine oil and keep working at it until it turns easily again. Takes time and lots of patience. I have a machine that had been running fine. Left it sit for about 4 years. When I went to use it, it was seized up. I have to assume a previous owner had used a hardware store cheap oil like 3-in-1. Took a while to get it back into operation.