Dyes Vs Paints

[Bluesman]

Hello all,

I have a current projecct which requires the following colors. Red, Dark Blue, White, Bright Yellow and Deep Green. It's a football project so think NFL. While I have serval options going on in my head I wanted to seek the advice from the community. I am leaning towards using all spirit dyes, however maybe the acrylic paints would be more vibrant. As of late I have invested in quite a few dyes, acrylics, water based stains, finishes, you know lots of stuff. I don't have in any set the complete list of colors. So what's your recomendation?. Please include what you would finish in. As I said I'm leaning sprit dyes, wax and oil, then finish with Neat Lac. Thanks in advance.

Jon

[Spinner]

Hello all,

I have a current projecct which requires the following colors. Red, Dark Blue, White, Bright Yellow and Deep Green. It's a football project so think NFL. While I have serval options going on in my head I wanted to seek the advice from the community. I am leaning towards using all spirit dyes, however maybe the acrylic paints would be more vibrant. As of late I have invested in quite a few dyes, acrylics, water based stains, finishes, you know lots of stuff. I don't have in any set the complete list of colors. So what's your recomendation?. Please include what you would finish in. As I said I'm leaning sprit dyes, wax and oil, then finish with Neat Lac. Thanks in advance.

Jon

Hey Jon,

What's the intended use of the item? You are correct, acrylics will be brighter & more vibrant with the possibility of more depth however they are not the best solution for an item that will be rubbed/abraded constantly like a holster, purse or backpack. Dyes penetrate better but this limits their light reflecting ability so they will be less vibrant but by being below the surface of the leather in the cells it will handle abrasion better. The other issue is the lack of a true white dye. A few companies make what they call a white dye but it is really an acrylic base with a higher medium content so it applies more thinly than paint but still has to be built up on the surface to display it's true color. Don't forget, there is no rule against using both dyes & acrylics to achieve the desired results. If there is such a rule, I break it all the time.

Yet another thing to keep in mind, if you plan to dye using colors like bright yellow plan to lighten the leather first using pure lemon juice or oxalic acid. Bright color dyes will be muted by the natural color of the leather and by lightening the leather first as much as possible you will produce much brighter colors. Lightening also keeps the natural leather color from giving your dark colors a 'golden tone'.

An lastly, in case you didn't know, the Tandy Waterstains can be brushed on just like paint and have a penetration that is about 1/2 way between dyes and acrylics with a good color range so it might help fill in some of the gaps.

Chris

[Spinner]

one more thought, if you use acrylics or the water based WaterStains, a different finish other than Neat-Lac will be needed as it's solvents can break up the acrylics if applied directly. You can either top coat the piece with an acrylic finish first and then neat lac or just multiple coats of the acrylic finish. Spraying is preferred when applying any finish over acrylic paints.

Edited May 14, 2012 by Spinner

[Bluesman]

one more thought, if you use acrylics or the water based WaterStains, a different finish other than Neat-Lac will be needed as it's solvents can break up the acrylics if applied directly. You can either top coat the piece with an acrylic finish first and then neat lac or just the acrylic finish. Spraying is preferred when applying any finish over acrylic paints.

Thanks Spinner. I have tried the Tandy water stain in red and it was really vibrant. So I will experiment with the acrylics and water stains. I don't have an air brush so will haev to come up with a way to spray the finish on. As for what I'm making

This is what got me back into Leather work. I wanted a championship Belt and said, "hey I can make that!" So I spent about $3500 making it myself. There how's that for logic.

[Spinner]

Thanks Spinner. I have tried the Tandy water stain in red and it was really vibrant. So I will experiment with the acrylics and water stains. I don't have an air brush so will haev to come up with a way to spray the finish on. As for what I'm making

This is what got me back into Leather work. I wanted a championship Belt and said, "hey I can make that!" So I spent about $3500 making it myself. There how's that for logic.

Ah, ok acrylics, etc. should be just fine for that. As for spray on finishes I know many people knock Tandy Super Sheen but I tell you what, it works extremely well when applied correctly and it comes in a spray can. As for application, it works best when applied like a car is painted. hold the can back 8-12 inches and spray in even lines all the same orientation, overlapping the last spray line 30% or so with the next. Let each coat dry completely in between and apply 2-3 or so coats this way. Start & stop the spray off the object, never in the middle. If possible, the item to be sprayed should be hung instead of lying flat to reduce the amount of overspray that lands on it, this will reduce any rough feeling and leave a nice smooth finish.

[Bluesman]

Okay final question. I can paint my logos with the acrylics and finsih witht he Super Sheen. Now, any worries if I use standard dyes and or antiques on the other areas of the belt, which will be tooled? Or should I stick to water stains, acrylics and super sheen?

[Spinner]

Okay final question. I can paint my logos with the acrylics and finsih witht he Super Sheen. Now, any worries if I use standard dyes and or antiques on the other areas of the belt, which will be tooled? Or should I stick to water stains, acrylics and super sheen?

No worries at all. In fact I was just discussing this very thing not long ago with another member. If you use dyes & antiques on the piece, do those first. If possible, mask off the areas to receive the acrylic paints prior to applying your resist for the antiquing so that you are able to paint on to the bare leather. Acrylics will still adhere to a finish if applied on top of it but they 'stick' much better if applied to the bare leather. Use the minimum amount of top coat for the resist possible so when you apply the overall finish to protect the acrylics it won't build up a ton on the previously finished areas under the antique. (build-up creates more shine...fewer coats, less build up, more natural look).

[Bluesman]

Thanks, I think I will tool the logos, which are on the main belt and finish them. The only other tooling will be a very coarse background so I will probaly dye that area first, paint and then finish. The two belt sides are serperate and will be sewn to the main belt after everything is completed. Guess I wait and see how the spirit moves me. I have yet to have a project come out as intended. Always making changes as I go. You have been a big help.

Thanks,

Jon

[kayw]

Hello all,

I have a current projecct which requires the following colors. Red, Dark Blue, White, Bright Yellow and Deep Green. It's a football project so think NFL. While I have serval options going on in my head I wanted to seek the advice from the community. I am leaning towards using all spirit dyes, however maybe the acrylic paints would be more vibrant. As of late I have invested in quite a few dyes, acrylics, water based stains, finishes, you know lots of stuff. I don't have in any set the complete list of colors. So what's your recomendation?. Please include what you would finish in. As I said I'm leaning sprit dyes, wax and oil, then finish with Neat Lac. Thanks in advance.

Jon

Hey Jon, where do you get your neat lac? I can't seem to find it here in the Phoenix area. None of the Tandy stores handle it anymore as due to some Fed regulation. Also, I wonder if there is some substitute that works as well. I don't care for the acrylic stuff, but sure would like to find some lacquer that works well on leather. KayW

[kayw]

Hey Jon, where do you get your neat lac? I can't seem to find it here in the Phoenix area. None of the Tandy stores handle it anymore as due to some Fed regulation. Also, I wonder if there is some substitute that works as well. I don't care for the acrylic stuff, but sure would like to find some lacquer that works well on leather. KayW

I've been searching around this website and I think I've found my own answer. Wyosheen and Clearlac are apparently the current names for the lacquer I'm looking for. KayW

[Bluesman]

I've been searching around this website and I think I've found my own answer. Wyosheen and Clearlac are apparently the current names for the lacquer I'm looking for. KayW

Good detective work. Wyosheen from Sherdian Leather Outfitters and Clearlac from Springfield Leather. I use the Wysheen and it's the real McCoy.

[kayw]

Good detective work. Wyosheen from Sherdian Leather Outfitters and Clearlac from Springfield Leather. I use the Wysheen and it's the real McCoy.

Hey, thanks mucho for your response! Nothing seems to me to bring out the beauty of a piece of leather like a "little" pure neatsfoot oil finished with a good lacquer. I have enjoyed your posts as I have begun to get acquainted with this great website. KayW

[Bluesman]

Hey, thanks mucho for your response! Nothing seems to me to bring out the beauty of a piece of leather like a "little" pure neatsfoot oil finished with a good lacquer. I have enjoyed your posts as I have begun to get acquainted with this great website. KayW

Tool On Buddy and please post you work.

Jon